Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I will ask, maybe it is the old one just sitting there, I do not think he would use a gasket that is not good enough for the job ?

Seen enough of them leak to not use them.

In a perfect world if the manifold flange and the turbo housing are dead flat then single layer one would be fine......but it is not always a perfect world.

Seen enough of them leak to not use them.

In a perfect world if the manifold flange and the turbo housing are dead flat then single layer one would be fine......but it is not always a perfect world.

I doubt he would something that would stuff the job to save a $ , that does not seem to be what he does , if he did use the gasket I would say it is dead flat :)

  • Like 1

The 6 Boobs mani looks the biz.

Is that a single layer gasket sitting on there Pete......? Tell however speced that to stop being a cheap bastard and put a good multi layer one on like a Permaseal.

He uses Silicone for the gasket

Almost like he has done one or two before

Spot on, guess it is that RTV Silicone :)

He is going slowly through my car and sorting out what he thinks will get the best results and I cannot wait to see / feel the difference the changes make.

People around here are acting like Jez is a noob.

Such noobs

Once he told me he was using Silicone I had to Google it, I did not know they had a Silicone that could handle that much heat, so learnt a little more today :)

So manifold is in and looking pretty.

Turbo going on?

Turn the wick up yet?

Should be on the Dyno very soon

The wick up, I hope so , especially in the response zone, E85 and the boost controller should let me turn it up on demand :yes: But I cannot use the top end power now , well a little, unless I start going to Sydney and have some fun on track days for dummies :cheers:

"You cannot use the top end power"?

You can it just may get you into some trouble.

It is easy enough to get into enough trouble with an old VW :)

But these Rs can get you into BIGGER trouble :spank:

Edited by Nismo 3.2ish

People around here are acting like Jez is a noob.

Such noobs

I wouldn't know Jez from a bar of soap, but if he is using shit products like cheap single layer gaskets on a high end build like this I thought I would comment.

......sorry I thought this was a forum?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...