Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I will ask, maybe it is the old one just sitting there, I do not think he would use a gasket that is not good enough for the job ?

Seen enough of them leak to not use them.

In a perfect world if the manifold flange and the turbo housing are dead flat then single layer one would be fine......but it is not always a perfect world.

Seen enough of them leak to not use them.

In a perfect world if the manifold flange and the turbo housing are dead flat then single layer one would be fine......but it is not always a perfect world.

I doubt he would something that would stuff the job to save a $ , that does not seem to be what he does , if he did use the gasket I would say it is dead flat :)

  • Like 1

The 6 Boobs mani looks the biz.

Is that a single layer gasket sitting on there Pete......? Tell however speced that to stop being a cheap bastard and put a good multi layer one on like a Permaseal.

He uses Silicone for the gasket

Almost like he has done one or two before

Spot on, guess it is that RTV Silicone :)

He is going slowly through my car and sorting out what he thinks will get the best results and I cannot wait to see / feel the difference the changes make.

People around here are acting like Jez is a noob.

Such noobs

Once he told me he was using Silicone I had to Google it, I did not know they had a Silicone that could handle that much heat, so learnt a little more today :)

So manifold is in and looking pretty.

Turbo going on?

Turn the wick up yet?

Should be on the Dyno very soon

The wick up, I hope so , especially in the response zone, E85 and the boost controller should let me turn it up on demand :yes: But I cannot use the top end power now , well a little, unless I start going to Sydney and have some fun on track days for dummies :cheers:

"You cannot use the top end power"?

You can it just may get you into some trouble.

It is easy enough to get into enough trouble with an old VW :)

But these Rs can get you into BIGGER trouble :spank:

Edited by Nismo 3.2ish

People around here are acting like Jez is a noob.

Such noobs

I wouldn't know Jez from a bar of soap, but if he is using shit products like cheap single layer gaskets on a high end build like this I thought I would comment.

......sorry I thought this was a forum?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...