Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My bf xr6t made 400rwkw for 120,000km, broke an input shaft twice and a coolant t piece. Other than that, it was excellent. It's a better daily than any skyline, more reliable and comfy but about 20% as cool and fun as an rb due to feeling like a tractor. That's why I still have my 34 and not my falcoon.

Falcon's are boats, the engines are like boat anchors, they simply arnt in the same category to the Jap cars.. the motor even looks crap....

Pull a 10sec quarter and you be like .. yay my boat pulled a 10!!

Edited by AngryRB

Have fun replacing Diff bushes constantly (Requires subframe removal)

Have fun replacing Heater mixer shaft when it breaks. hopefully you have the updated stronger one. (Requires Dash out).

Have fun replacing all the engine rubber seals and electrical connectors due too excessive heat. (From memory the thermostat is somewhere near 92 degrees)

Have fun replacing all the front end bushes due to being flogged out.

Making all that power is fun but in the long run the maintenance bill will be higher if you don't work on the car yourself.

I owned at XR6T and while the engine is by far the best part of the whole car, the rest of the car is poorly engineered.

I couldn't believe how bad all the suspension bushes were after such low km's.

I have owned a 180sx, Silvia, Chaser & a stagea. After working on all these cars the significantly older cars are

1. Easier to work on

2. Handle better

And 3. Run cooler.

My 2c. Take it or leave it.

How dare you bring logic and personal experience into an internet argument :P

:rofl:

My bf xr6t made 400rwkw for 120,000km, broke an input shaft twice and a coolant t piece. Other than that, it was excellent. It's a better daily than any skyline, more reliable and comfy but about 20% as cool and fun as an rb due to feeling like a tractor. That's why I still have my 34 and not my falcoon.

I have both, a FG XR6T ute and GTR.

For a daily the FG is perfect, still under factory warranty so im limited in what i can do for now, Direct injection LPG gave it another 10 rwkw and $30 LPG gives me 420Km in a large vehicle with some power.

The Autos are much quicker than the manual models. With a stall launch with TC on it has no issues with VF HSV's up to around 80, the FG having the smaller turbos run out of puff compared to the BA/BF models.

GTR cannot be daily driven without drawing unwanted attention.

GTR needs small womens hands to work in the engine bay, parts are expensive and take time to get, FG parts are at every corner shop and cheap.

Fords warranty program is not even worth wiping your arse with.......consumer affairs has told me they have had many dealing with them.

And stay away from the Bayfords group, a Ford head office worker who i know told me they are on top of a watch list at Ford head office, they are well known to drag warranty claims out and not honor them with excuses.

Also Coburg Bayfords head mechanic is a seriously big drop kick. When this guy first looked under the rear of my ute he mentioned my issue may be with my axle CV, then he got up looking white and said "hang on this things got a solid axle"....and this guys in charge of servicing my car......

I could go on about some of the crap thats come out of this guys mouth, some seriously funny shit.

If you do by a Ford, they are great and cheap to run/fix, just dont count on a decent warranty support.

So much easier to pull power from, Stock turbo engine with just a cooler, piping, valve springs, pump and injectors has no issue seeing 340Kw at the rears, throw E85 in and 400Kw, upgrade the turbo and the skys the limit (as is the trannies input shaft)

Best daily sleepers money can buy, the VLT of tomorrow.

Have fun replacing Diff bushes constantly (Requires subframe removal)

Have fun replacing Heater mixer shaft when it breaks. hopefully you have the updated stronger one. (Requires Dash out).

Have fun replacing all the engine rubber seals and electrical connectors due too excessive heat. (From memory the thermostat is somewhere near 92 degrees)

Have fun replacing all the front end bushes due to being flogged out.

Making all that power is fun but in the long run the maintenance bill will be higher if you don't work on the car yourself.

I owned at XR6T and while the engine is by far the best part of the whole car, the rest of the car is poorly engineered.

I couldn't believe how bad all the suspension bushes were after such low km's.

I have owned a 180sx, Silvia, Chaser & a stagea. After working on all these cars the significantly older cars are

1. Easier to work on

2. Handle better

And 3. Run cooler.

My 2c. Take it or leave it.

Yeah I agree with most of this. Diff bushes flog out all the time due to a flawed design, much better in the BF in the BA, in the BA you almost don't bother replacing them as they just break 20,000 kms later. I've put super pro ones in that are marketed as lasting for 100,000 km.

I've changed the thermostat to 82c so engine bay heat is a lot better. Front end bushes imo aren't any worse than my skyline, they seem to last about as long.

I personally find the engine bay bigger and easier to work on in the falcon, plus nothing ever goes wrong engine wise so all I really do is change the oil.

Still keen to see how quick these things are with a set of good suspension and a mindset of making it go round a track.

End of the day the skyline is going to be better at just about everything track related, the weight and size of the car means it can handle but you'll spend a lot more money to do so. One pro of a bigger car is you can fit 285s in the stock guards and get traction in first gear with 320rwkw.

are the XR6T engine and gearboxes reliable when making good power?

BF MkII onwards have forged internals and will make 400rwkw all day long on the stock motor and gearbox, 6 speed box is notchy and noisy (even from day 1) but they never blow up. BAs blow up gearboxes and motors all the time. FG has a smaller compressor housing so will only make 300rwkw stock as it is a GT35 with a tiny 53/76mm compressor (very strange turbo), BF has a 82mm wheel. Auto needs work done to make that power all day long, the auto is MUCH faster than the 6 speed and better in most ways except the fact it is an auto, the super heavy clutch in the 6 speed makes daily duties a bit like the skyline at times.

Edited by Rolls

What is a BF XR6. Im mean i can google it but damn. Kml. Seems like guys here dont like the dark side. Please dont say its a ford.

It is a Ford. Here in Australia we have Ford making the Falcon and Holden making the Commodore. Both big 4 door RWD sedans (with various spin offs like wagons and pickups), available with a variety of engines. The Holdens have been using Chev and generic GM engines for a long time now (the Ecotec V6 and LS V8s). But the Fraud has been using a home grown 4L straight six for a long long time. Its roots go back to the 60s, but it's a grandfather's axe kinda thing. The latest (and really the last) of them is a twin cam 24 valver with or without turbo. Without turbo it is a fairly good engine. With turbo, it's a bloody monster.

glad they're offering the Roush kit for the Mustang, also glad to hear Chrysler /fiat are considering bringing in the challenger hellcat... General/ conjob/ motors still have their head stuck up there left hand drive arse

Edited by Missileman

If you do by a Ford, they are great and cheap to run/fix, just dont count on a decent warranty support.

Not an XR6, but the 4wd drive Ford I purchased brand new was buggered from day one. 3 year warranty and nothing done in that 3 years that I didn't pay for and/or do myself to fix it. All Ford ever did was 'circle the wagons' and wait for the warranty to run out. Once it did they told me to go away. I rebuilt the front end, replace 6 starter motors, new air con compressor, new air con condensor, replaced rear diff bearing and seal, new alternator, new 4wd module, new speedo cluster, new front discs, and probably a heap of sh!t I've forgotten. I argued with my local agent and even went to Ford Australia all to no avail. So I ended up doing it or getting it done all myself. I went to Dept Fair Trading and they said the same thing - don't even bother wasting your time, they had a file that would take a small forest to make enough paper. They even said Ford was a big company and was actively engaged in NOT honouring their warranty [not my words].

I'll never ever buy anything Ford ever again, period.

So maybe the power figures are good, and maybe they are OK to drive...........I honestly just don't want anything to do with a company that doesn't stand by their product.

I'm sorry for all the guys who lost their jobs, but I'm not sorry Ford is closing down, we honestly don't need that type of behaviour.

Its very true what you say tridentt150v. I also would never buy another Ford for the flaws you listed.

However in today's day and age I don't really trust any company to do whats best for the customer. Its all about the end dollar.

If you keep up to speed with the Nissan/ Infinity cars in the US. There have been scores of people wanting to change engines due to oil consumption and faulty Auto transmission.

These are all problems with their flagship 3.7l V6. From memory guys were going through more than a litre of oil every 1000km.

The only exception has been The Santa Fe we own. Its just coming on 5 years old now. The warranty has covered a few things and it has near 200,000km on it.

Over all it has been flawless.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...