Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So they give you a 20% pay cut for 4 years, then pay you 80% in the 5th year when you're not working, presumably when they forecast they'll have no work for you anyway...

Say you're on 100k, they cut that to 80k for 4 years, saving themselves 80k over the 4 years, they then pay you 80k in the fifth year to have the year off... So they've saved themselves $100k per employee, and all you've gained is a year off, with $100k less in your pocket than you would've had on normal terms

Sounds like a good deal...................

Tall them you will do it but you need to take the gap year first then quit before you go back or just get a job somewhere else.

Clearly they will never let you do it that way though

So they give you a 20% pay cut for 4 years, then pay you 80% in the 5th year when you're not working, presumably when they forecast they'll have no work for you anyway...

Say you're on 100k, they cut that to 80k for 4 years, saving themselves 80k over the 4 years, they then pay you 80k in the fifth year to have the year off... So they've saved themselves $100k per employee, and all you've gained is a year off, with $100k less in your pocket than you would've had on normal terms

Sounds like a good deal...................

Take the cynical blinkers off Monica

They haven't saved $100k per employee, they've gotten 4 years of work out of them and paid out $400k either way

And that mere year off could be spent on a beach with a European woman, not stuck in traffic in Tarneit

Tell me someone on 80k is going to happily doing workload of a 100k position?

100k for 5 years = 5 years of work for the company and $500k in your pocket (before tax)
vs
80k for 5 years = 4 years of half-arsed work for the company (They'll need to take on another employee to cover the 5th year so they're out $600 instead of $500k), barely making your house payments if anything goes wrong in your life (sick family, babies, etc).

What happens if situations change and you want to change companies after 3 years? Do they need to pay out 60k pro-rata on your last day? Thats a huge financial liability for the company.

Tell me someone on 80k is going to happily doing workload of a 100k position?

100k for 5 years = 5 years of work for the company and $500k in your pocket (before tax)

vs

80k for 5 years = 4 years of half-arsed work for the company (They'll need to take on another employee to cover the 5th year so they're out $600 instead of $500k), barely making your house payments if anything goes wrong in your life (sick family, babies, etc).

What happens if situations change and you want to change companies after 3 years? Do they need to pay out 60k pro-rata on your last day? Thats a huge financial liability for the company.

Considering last couple companies I worked for complain if you have more than 20 days annual leave owing...1 year hell no

Take the cynical blinkers off Monica

They haven't saved $100k per employee, they've gotten 4 years of work out of them and paid out $400k either way

And that mere year off could be spent on a beach with a European woman, not stuck in traffic in Tarneit

She'll leave you pretty quickly once your 80k runs out and you're sleeping in that same beach permanently

The concept isn't a bad one. It's like working 3 12 hour days a week for 36 hours and then having 4 days off, just on a grander scale.

What if it was 10%, instead of 20%? Having a year paid off ain't such a bad idea, because unlike the VWL regular elite most don't actually plan that well because life tends to get in the way.

Tell me someone on 80k is going to happily doing workload of a 100k position?

100k for 5 years = 5 years of work for the company and $500k in your pocket (before tax)

vs

80k for 5 years = 4 years of half-arsed work for the company (They'll need to take on another employee to cover the 5th year so they're out $600 instead of $500k), barely making your house payments if anything goes wrong in your life (sick family, babies, etc).

What happens if situations change and you want to change companies after 3 years? Do they need to pay out 60k pro-rata on your last day? Thats a huge financial liability for the company.

Company pays you $400k over 5 years as your 5th year is unpaid but supported by the 80k saving you accumulated over the 4 years.

The company will then hire an additional person at $100k. So the end cost is the same for the business. $500k.

She'll leave you pretty quickly once your 80k runs out and you're sleeping in that same beach permanently

Well yeah cos I obviously wouldn't undertake any financial planning or change my lifestyle at all

I should just go to work and take zero risks, what was I thinking

  • Like 1

I went from EBA hourly rate, 40 hour week with fortnightly RDO (paid 36 hours a week)

to

Salary, the worlds most complex over-time system, no RDO's and monthly pay.

to finally

Hourly rate salary, OT penalty rates, no RDO, fortnightly pay.

(^ best). RDO fortnightly was a joke, couldnt run a site properly or finish a job as planned. I prefer the extra paid hours.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...