Jump to content
SAU Community

Rd28 Vs N1 Block Whichever Is Better For A Build?

GD51LA

By GD51LA,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Leroy Peterson Grand Master

Leroy Peterson

Posted
Posted

a quick google search for SAU came up with enough info to satisfy your question...

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156988-rd28-diesel-block/#entry2916702

"Simply put there is ZERO advantage over an RB30 bottom end. No stronger, DET cylinder head doesn't bolt straight on, water and oil galleries are different, as is water pump and oil pump etc etc."

more comparable to RB30 block than RB26.

so of course RD28 is a lot cheaper than N1. and cheaper than RB30. with good reason.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Another thought, how many RD28 in NZ and Saudi compared to Australia?

Quite a few in NZ. Was someone building a race engine out of one locally - don't know how it turned out.

Dahtone Racing Grand Master

Dahtone Racing

Posted
Posted

The RD block needs a heap of work to make the RB head fit but it can be done.
We are actually doing one in the new year with a 3.2 stroker.

The deck is thicker and so are the bores, it is one heavy f**ker though.
They can also be bought new which is always a good thing.

  • Like 2
GTRPSI Mentor

GTRPSI

Posted
Posted

The RD block needs a heap of work to make the RB head fit but it can be done.

We are actually doing one in the new year with a 3.2 stroker.

Custom crank and rods or is there a drop in kit available for them?

Did you sleeve the block or did you think the extra wall thickness was enough?

What was the biggest issue having the head join the block?

[200] Mentor

[200]

Posted
Posted

People go rd28

Because rb30 blocks split

Same with any platform of engine,some people can get them

To hold together better than others.

unless you want a 7 sec car,you probally dont

need one at all

cheers

darren

Pic of split rb30 block? :rolleyes:

you'll be blowing head gaskets before splitting a block and if you're worried about it then grout fill it.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Seriously.

Theres pics of a rb30 split lengthwise pretty much at the base of the tapped holes for the head studs floating around the net.

Grout filling won't stop that!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • dbm7
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      First time we have seen lights 
    • Wazmond
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Wazmond · Posted

      I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • soviet_merlin
      Howdy Y'all

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • soviet_merlin
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...