Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

a quick google search for SAU came up with enough info to satisfy your question...

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156988-rd28-diesel-block/#entry2916702

"Simply put there is ZERO advantage over an RB30 bottom end. No stronger, DET cylinder head doesn't bolt straight on, water and oil galleries are different, as is water pump and oil pump etc etc."

more comparable to RB30 block than RB26.

so of course RD28 is a lot cheaper than N1. and cheaper than RB30. with good reason.

Another thought, how many RD28 in NZ and Saudi compared to Australia?

Quite a few in NZ. Was someone building a race engine out of one locally - don't know how it turned out.

The RD block needs a heap of work to make the RB head fit but it can be done.
We are actually doing one in the new year with a 3.2 stroker.

The deck is thicker and so are the bores, it is one heavy f**ker though.
They can also be bought new which is always a good thing.

  • Like 2

The RD block needs a heap of work to make the RB head fit but it can be done.

We are actually doing one in the new year with a 3.2 stroker.

Custom crank and rods or is there a drop in kit available for them?

Did you sleeve the block or did you think the extra wall thickness was enough?

What was the biggest issue having the head join the block?

People go rd28

Because rb30 blocks split

Same with any platform of engine,some people can get them

To hold together better than others.

unless you want a 7 sec car,you probally dont

need one at all

cheers

darren

Pic of split rb30 block? :rolleyes:

you'll be blowing head gaskets before splitting a block and if you're worried about it then grout fill it.

Seriously.

Theres pics of a rb30 split lengthwise pretty much at the base of the tapped holes for the head studs floating around the net.

Grout filling won't stop that!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
    • I saw your intro update, are you sure you've actually had a starter motor failure? You mention it could be the alarm causing it. I'm assuming you've got a no start issue, but what are the exact symptoms, as there could be a few reasons it has stopped wanting to start.
×
×
  • Create New...