Jump to content
SAU Community

Rd28 Vs N1 Block Whichever Is Better For A Build?

GD51LA

By GD51LA,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Leroy Peterson Grand Master

Leroy Peterson

Posted
Posted

a quick google search for SAU came up with enough info to satisfy your question...

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156988-rd28-diesel-block/#entry2916702

"Simply put there is ZERO advantage over an RB30 bottom end. No stronger, DET cylinder head doesn't bolt straight on, water and oil galleries are different, as is water pump and oil pump etc etc."

more comparable to RB30 block than RB26.

so of course RD28 is a lot cheaper than N1. and cheaper than RB30. with good reason.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Another thought, how many RD28 in NZ and Saudi compared to Australia?

Quite a few in NZ. Was someone building a race engine out of one locally - don't know how it turned out.

Dahtone Racing Grand Master

Dahtone Racing

Posted
Posted

The RD block needs a heap of work to make the RB head fit but it can be done.
We are actually doing one in the new year with a 3.2 stroker.

The deck is thicker and so are the bores, it is one heavy f**ker though.
They can also be bought new which is always a good thing.

  • Like 2
GTRPSI Mentor

GTRPSI

Posted
Posted

The RD block needs a heap of work to make the RB head fit but it can be done.

We are actually doing one in the new year with a 3.2 stroker.

Custom crank and rods or is there a drop in kit available for them?

Did you sleeve the block or did you think the extra wall thickness was enough?

What was the biggest issue having the head join the block?

[200] Mentor

[200]

Posted
Posted

People go rd28

Because rb30 blocks split

Same with any platform of engine,some people can get them

To hold together better than others.

unless you want a 7 sec car,you probally dont

need one at all

cheers

darren

Pic of split rb30 block? :rolleyes:

you'll be blowing head gaskets before splitting a block and if you're worried about it then grout fill it.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Seriously.

Theres pics of a rb30 split lengthwise pretty much at the base of the tapped holes for the head studs floating around the net.

Grout filling won't stop that!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • MBS206
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Tein Circuit Master- rebuild worth it?

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Duncan
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Duncan · Posted

      Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...