Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Are you 100% sure that z32 result wasn't gtx2860s?

Anyway you seem to be possibly missing his point about using a Japanese car that has been sold in both markets then getting tuned with a stockish setup to compare general dyno numbers

Im 110% sure because i know what shop built it and the owner too. He has gtx2863s now making 565rwkw.

  • 2 weeks later...

Based on Injector Dynamics own data, the nominal flow rate of their ID1000 is 1015cc at a base pressure of 43.5psi. The car in question, based on the data provided by the owner and tuner is running 58psi base pressure. This is just shy of a nominal flow rate of 1180cc. Add 25psi boost, and as previously stated, we are looking at 83psi peak fuel pressure. According to Injector Dynamics that is a touch under a nominal flow rate of 1390cc. At 83psi the injectors are safely within the ID1000 maximum fuel pressure rating.

I assume the fuel system consists of appropriately rated dual feed lines and return fuel line, to go with the twin Walbro 400hp E85 pumps and preferably a twin-entry rail. All assisting the set-up to reach the nominal rating.

Using this data and running it through some very rough E85 specific injector calculations (1390cc x 6 = 8340cc / 11 = 758hp) we can see that ID1000 injectors are capable of supporting approximately 750hp in this specific example.

That's 750 at the flywheel, does this car have such an awesome drive train that it is capable of almost zero loss?

Also the turbos are rated at 700hp at the fly wheel and has managed to surpass that at the wheels, but then again we are talking about American pony power and not Australian horse power

  • Haha 1

Based on Injector Dynamics own data, the nominal flow rate of their ID1000 is 1015cc at a base pressure of 43.5psi. The car in question, based on the data provided by the owner and tuner is running 58psi base pressure. This is just shy of a nominal flow rate of 1180cc. Add 25psi boost, and as previously stated, we are looking at 83psi peak fuel pressure. According to Injector Dynamics that is a touch under a nominal flow rate of 1390cc. At 83psi the injectors are safely within the ID1000 maximum fuel pressure rating.

That's now how injector pressure works...

if the fuel pump is supplying 83psi, and the boost pressure is 25psi, the pressure across the injector is 58 psi, so the flow rate will be the 1180cc pressure you mentioned. Which isn't enough fuel to flow the quoted power figure, etc.

Of course it is 750hp at the engine. I thought that was obvious.

As for the rest of the debate, I'm not weighing in. I am merely pointing out the capability of a set of 6 ID1000 injectors.

Looks like back to basics for me then. I assumed (incorrectly it would seem) that base pressure is set on the regulator. In this case 58psi. Then assuming a 1:1 rising rate regulator each pound of boost will equal 1 pound of additional fuel pressure. At 25psi boost the fuel pressure at the rail, and therefore the injector, is 83psi.

Running the numbers through a range of online injector calculators, 6 x 1000cc at a base pressure of 58psi is more than enough to support 750hp with duty cycle to spare (90%). Real world examples support this. There are always exceptions but I suggest there are other restrictions in those cases.

Right, got it. A 1:1 regulator is there to maintain the base pressure.

Despite my misunderstand, at the end of the day, running the data through a range of online injector calculators (58psi base press, 6 x 1000cc, E85 etc.) where my misunderstand has no bearing, each case results in the same outcome. ID1000 injectors will support 750hp - possibly more given I worked off 90% duty cycle vs the 97% reported in this particular application.

  • Like 1

Seems abit on the high rating - is that running the SAE correction method or what?

If you running the American version then I have seen dynos add an extra 50kw on a hot day as it tries to factor in heat to the air density.

Mine ran 384KW on jap/aus/nz conversion and we switched to American and I gained 18kw to 402....so I broke 400 haha.

Imagine on E85 if I was pushing 460-470 a jump of 50 kw would easily be seen on the same day as me.

Another thing to point out guys, turbos are not rated in crank hp or rear wheel hp. Turbos are rated to how much air they move, so a 35lb/min compressor will get a "350HP" rating not taking into account if the turbine side can support it or not.

^but if you cut 2x sets of holes on your manifolds and weld up external gates then you resolve that choking issue :)

Still doesn't stop twins being gaids.

2 gates on low mounts?

Whata waste of time, better off using one gate and one turbo.

better results half the money.

2 gates on low mounts?

Whata waste of time, better off using one gate and one turbo.

better results half the money.

Yeah dur! Lol

I've been saying twins are gay since 2008. Piggaz can back me up on this!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done.  
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
×
×
  • Create New...