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Rb 2860-5 Highest Hp?


Jc052685

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My experience with a Mainline dyno suggests they can be optimistic and in my case it was a Mainline roller dyno. A Mainline hub dyno would be even more optimistic!

I took my APR Stage 2+ MKV Golf GTI Pirelli to a dyno day a year or so ago and on the Mainline at the workshop hosting the day it produced 212kW at the front wheels.

My regular workshop has a new model Dyno Dynamics and on there it produces 193kW at the wheels

I might take my 33 to the same Mainline... should see a decent 'gain' in power. From 462kW to over 480... heck it could crack 500 on a Mainline hub dyno! [emoji38]

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My experience with a Mainline dyno suggests they can be optimistic and in my case it was a Mainline roller dyno. A Mainline hub dyno would be even more optimistic!

I took my APR Stage 2+ MKV Golf GTI Pirelli to a dyno day a year or so ago and on the Mainline at the workshop hosting the day it produced 212kW at the front wheels.

My regular workshop has a new model Dyno Dynamics and on there it produces 193kW at the wheels

I might take my 33 to the same Mainline... should see a decent 'gain' in power. From 462kW to over 480... heck it could crack 500 on a Mainline hub dyno! [emoji38]

See that's interesting cause Insight just changed from a Dyno Dymanics to a Main Line and they have named it the heart braker cause all their cars are reading lower on the ML then they did on the DD

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no sir, we have the Aussie calibrations. Made sure of it.

even if you have, it's still a hub dyno which read higher then our roller dynos and quite a bit higher at that.

As everyone has said, go run a mile an hour cause we will never believe a dyno figure from America anyway

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A hub dyno bloody well should read higher than a roller dyno. If 25-30% of flywheel horsepower disappears on a roller dyno and the bulk of that is turned into heat at the tyre-roller interface, then banishing that interface should see the 15-20% that is lost there turn back up in the measurement, leaving the expectable ~10%** actual drivetrain loss.

**note that even 10% is probably a bit high for real drivetrain losses. That much power turned into heat inside transmission and diff housings will boil oil pretty quickly.

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Weather should be good over there now. Time to go to the track and show us some time slips. We can sit here and argue for an eternity or u can do a few a few passes and u will then either be crowned the king of -5's or be flamed for the rest of your days. Good luck either way [emoji3]

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Dynos are just a tuning tool, the numbers are not absolute. The only absolute way to know how fast your car is is down the quarter, ET is how well your car is set up, mph engine power.

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hmm I know this is sAU but there is still a bit of arrogance in implying that our dynos are accurate and american ones are not because they read higher. Perhaps our just read lower than normal, it depends where you stand.

BTW I am pretty sure our 400m is shorter than a 1/4 mile too....

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Rightio, coming from a mainline owner, the 4wd roller we have IS the heartbreaker. Why? Because we don't park air temp sensors where they shouldn't be, we REGULARLY have the dyno and retardation units checked and calibrated and we don't give a single fcuk, weather its flying or not, about a final hp figure on a dyno. Its a tuning tool, not a sales pitch like so many shops will make it. MPH and weight don't lie, ever. If you want to make 600whp from your cammed, unported, stock headered ve, you came to the wrong place. This is as far as this needs to go, so mr OP, what mph and weight did this car run, and if you want to be technical, give us track temp, elevation and humidity.

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Over the years I like many other have watched/read with interest the different hp outputs that overseas dynos read vs our own readings.

I do remember seeing somewhere that US chassis dyno readings will usually give readings that reflect flywheel HP so that they are easier to interpret (Keep in mind I can't confirm this info so please, no flamage heheh).

The only true way to measure the HP and torque of an engine is to stick it on an engine dyno.

No drivetrain to get in the way, or rollers etc.

Oh and also the black top (QTR mile, 400m) as mentioned will give a good indication of HP after a few simple calculations :)

But of course it isn't always practical hey?....

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hmm I know this is sAU but there is still a bit of arrogance in implying that our dynos are accurate and american ones are not because they read higher. Perhaps our just read lower than normal, it depends where you stand.

BTW I am pretty sure our 400m is shorter than a 1/4 mile too....

I fairly sure the debate is which reads higher/lower more then which is accurate

Iirc it is the US drag strips that where shortened to 1000f for the biggest cars, not sure what class it called but I think it top alcohol or something like that, to lower trap speeds which where getting out of hand

What Sean said is something I have heard also, the US dynos are calibrated to reflect FW horse power where AUS dynos are set for RW hp

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I am of the opinion, like many others involved in this conversation, that a dyno is nothing more than a handy tool to have when working on automobiles. A peak horsepower number is simply a rough guide, that really only forms part of the picture. A time slip is far more valuable when assessing the merits of a car and the level of engine modifications performed.

Elapsed Time, 60ft time, 330ft, 660ft, 1320ft (402m) speeds and times, Terminal Speed, and finally vehicle weight when assessed in combination leave very little left to interpretation.

So by all means, run the subject car on a dyno using Australian calibration data (whatever that is!? Given they seem to vary wildly btw different workshops let alone dyno brands!) but it will bring us no closer to a definitive answer. Run the car at a drag strip and post the time slip and settle the score once and for all.

Let me just be clear here, I am not saying the car isn't producing the numbers that are being claimed. I'm merely stating that a dyno number doesn't settle the argument one way or the other. A time slip in combo' with vehicle mass will.

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See that's interesting cause Insight just changed from a Dyno Dymanics to a Main Line and they have named it the heart braker cause all their cars are reading lower on the ML then they did on the DD

A number of years ago I attended a dyno day with my R33 at a workshop with a Mainline roller dyno. I ended up winning the event with a relatively tame (by today's standards) 366kW at the rear wheels. A few days later I put in on the Dyno Dynamics dyno at my regular workshop where it produced 345.7kW. Nothing changed btw the two dyno sessions, even the weather remained largely the same, baro pressure included. That's not to say all DD dynos read lower than MD dynos, merely these two relative to one another. With a small gain in power at the wheels (30 odd kW) the car trapped a smidge under 129mph on a 12.2 sec pass and 2.4 60ft. The car weighed in at roughly 1580kg, including stereo gear, 1/2 tank, me (90kg) and a few extras like chassis bracing, heavy battery etc
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A number of years ago I attended a dyno day with my R33 at a workshop with a Mainline roller dyno. I ended up winning the event with a relatively tame (by today's standards) 366kW at the rear wheels. A few days later I put in on the Dyno Dynamics dyno at my regular workshop where it produced 345.7kW. Nothing changed btw the two dyno sessions, even the weather remained largely the same, baro pressure included. That's not to say all DD dynos read lower than MD dynos, merely these two relative to one another. With a small gain in power at the wheels (30 odd kW) the car trapped a smidge under 129mph on a 12.2 sec pass and 2.4 60ft. The car weighed in at roughly 1580kg, including stereo gear, 1/2 tank, me (90kg) and a few extras like chassis bracing, heavy battery etc

I don't doubt it, my point but which I realise I didn't make very clear was it doesn't matter which brand or even the same brand they all read different and realisticly nothing more then a tuning tool that gives a rough idea of actual power

If someone wants to compair his/her power against a freinds the only ways to do it is roll one off the dyno and roll the other one on the same dyno and strap it done the exact same way and even then there will be slight variation or make the two weigh the same and head to the drag strip

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How is this possible i cant get more than 405rwkw turbos apparently outa puff ... built motor fair bit of head work although std actuators and inlet. I call bs unless huge intake work

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