Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

45 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

😘😘😘

Always hook up GTS-t owners, those GT-R boys are happy with RRP and GT-R tax 😆

I dunno bout happy with it but most of us have come to terms with it! 😢

  • Haha 2
44 minutes ago, Shoota_77 said:

I dunno bout happy with it but most of us have come to terms with it! 😢

It's okay I love all you SAU members the same, in a non-homo way 😘

Hook ups for all, just no EFR hook ups because yeah nah.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2
  • 2 weeks later...

So I got the GTT seats in. Little bit of modding but nothing to crazy. They do sit high though which is shit as Im going to struggle wearing a helmet in the car.... But they are way more comfy. We'll see how I go might end up just changing to gtr seats 😂 

Black braid is a nono for hot side plumbing, remade it with some stainless i had laying around.

Mounted emap sensor on firewall, decided to not use the copper and just do it all in hardline should look a bit better. 

Plumbed up the gate and turbo as well with all new -3 braid. Need to get a couple more fittings tomorrow for the BOV and plumb that up to the intake mani. I marked out the BOV position and pulled the bumper off and cut the hole for that. Taking the car down to the shop tomorrow to be fabbed. Hopefully can knock it all out tomorrow then i'll drive it home and rip it all back apart and send to coating.

Hopefully get it back from coating in a week and then I'll put her back together and we'll chuck her on the dyno and see what sort of boost we can get out of her. And then turn it up and see what EMAP is doing (fingers crossed will take around 38-40psi).

20210613_145656.jpg

20210612_173849.jpg

20210613_160309.jpg

20210611_151830.jpg

20210610_163342.jpg

20210614_151417.jpg

20210614_163538.jpg

received_477362379999373.jpeg

  • Like 5

Took her down to the shop this morning and managed to get most of it done. BOV is on and plumbed up, comp cover has been tweaked along with the dump pipe. Mani welded up for the EMAP outlets and made hardline up today for it. Just need to wire it up now and we'll be good to go. 

Now to pull it all back apart and get it sent off for powder/ceramic. 

20210619_093108.jpg

20210619_125840.jpg

20210619_163434.jpg

20210619_163443.jpg

20210619_164325.jpg

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Currently on holiday up on Fraser drinking beer and catching fish 👌

Ripped the car back apart a couple weeks ago and sent it off to be coated. Should look sweet when i get it back in. Ill pick it up on Monday when I'm back in Brissy and start putting it all back together. 

Also have a new set of coilovers lined up that I'll pick up at some stage. Going to be on the hunt for a gtr diff/axle setup as well if anyone knows/is selling one. 

Probably end up putting it on the rollers and setting up the staged pumps and see what boost the new manifold setup gives us. Once we're ready for power runs we'll put it on the hub and see what she will push out 💪

USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_MSGR_PHOTO_FOR_UPLOAD_1625889820589_6819476178057636118.jpeg

20210710_172624.jpg

Screenshot_20210709-164040_Instagram.jpg

  • Like 4

Ordered a few goodies today. Got a Ross P/S pulley which they make for gtrs to run an r33 p/s pump with the 4pk belt so no modifying the pump and no more 3pk belt. Also got a PRP AC relocation bracket which pushes the a/c forward and jumps onto the same belt as the power steer. So it wont be overdriven on an ATI balancer and no more flicking or breaking AC belts. 

Finally ordered some stuff that I need for my gearbox. Pressure sensor and a motorsport fluid temp sensor. Once I have them I'll be able to finish off my gearbox loom and have it all hooked up to the ECU and finally be able to test the dump valve out...

Ordered black heat wrap for my dump pipe too. Decided to change it up and go to black should all blend in now.

Ordering a Syltech IACV as well. Currently not running anything and apparently these new valves are pretty good so we'll see how it goes. Need to decide if I'm going to atmosphere or to the fresh powdercoated cooler pipe 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

  • Like 2

Got back to Brissy on Saturday arvo. Had a nice morning drive down Fraser. Could nice photos.

On nightshift this week so went and picked up mani and pipes yesterday and spent a few hours putting it all back together. Came up pretty good, i just need to get a new radiator setup and paint it black as well 😂

Everythings back on except dump pipe and gate/screamer now. Have to wait until the heat wrap arrives that I ordered. Have new crimpers coming to terminate my pressure sensor plugs so need to wait for them before I can finish wiring emap up. 

So cars not far off running, ill probably just wait until I get the a/c relo and p/s pulley before I do drive it around. Will have to dump the p/s fluid and pull the pump off so I can change the pulleys and while thats out will give me better access to the a/c compressor. 

Fingers crossed everything arrives for me this week 😬

20210717_055324.jpg

20210717_062310.jpg

20210719_094410.jpg

20210719_113910.jpg

20210719_122007.jpg

20210719_150029.jpg

20210719_154325.jpg

  • Like 5

Heat wrap turned up on Thursday so I got to work on Friday and wrapped the dump up. Didnt get any time to put it in yesterday, had to keep the boss happy and get her some stuff. Installed a new clothes line for her so she can dry my clothes 😂 Good for painting parts too. 

Today put the gate and screamer on and plumbed all the lines and hoses back up and put her all back together 💪 

Had to get a fix so went for a quick spin to see how the new mani goes. 2nd pull I saw 22psi on the dash which is amazing. Hopefully I was full throttle but definitely better than the 30psi it was before! Single gate sounds mint too. Hopefully get her on the dyno soon and give her a tuneup and get these pumps staged as well. 

20210723_153353.jpg

20210724_144901.jpg

20210725_135553.jpg

20210725_135558.jpg

20210725_141454.jpg

20210725_150639.jpg

  • Like 6

Parts finally rocked up from Golebys after 2 weeks... Ross p/s pulley, Syltech IACV and fluid temp sensor. PRP A/C relo kit was here so started putting it all on today. Think the belt is lined up ok but we will see once ive got the P/S back on and a belt on it all.

Tomorrow I'm going to head down to mates shop and press this new pulley on and crimp my emap plug so I can finish wiring that up.

Need to find a solution to put a new p/s resi in that will take AN fittings. I think I'll weld a fitting onto the pump for the -10 line and I think ill go all the way back to the rack for the 10mm line and run a new hardline up in -6. 

IACV im struggling to find a good spot to mount it that will still give me good placement to run hose for. Will look more into that once I've put the p/s and emap back together.

Then I'll be onto finishing my gearbox wiring loom. Thats going to come down to what fittings I can find that will be suitable for the job as I need to put an port adapters in for the pressure sensors. 

 

received_1519200135110222.jpeg

20210729_174605.jpg

20210729_174621.jpg

  • Like 2

Engine bay is looking great. 

I used an aeroflow resivour as has 2 ports on bottom. No need to weld fittings on power steering pump. An AN turbo drain can be used for one part with the holes elongated and there is an adapter for the other. Will get a picture of what I used on my car. 

  • Thanks 1
On 7/29/2021 at 10:21 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

Engine bay is looking great. 

I used an aeroflow resivour as has 2 ports on bottom. No need to weld fittings on power steering pump. An AN turbo drain can be used for one part with the holes elongated and there is an adapter for the other. Will get a picture of what I used on my car. 

Thanks mate! 

What have you used for the line that goes to the rack?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...