GOT SUM's RB34

[robbo_rb180]

On 7/30/2021 at 9:01 AM, klutched said:

Thanks mate! 

What have you used for the line that goes to the rack?

-6 Teflon to and from it

[klutched]

On 7/30/2021 at 9:30 AM, robbo_rb180 said:

-6 Teflon to and from it

Damn it, i honestly cant be bothered pulling the hardline out after seeing where it runs today 😂 maybe next to the engines out ill do it haha. 

Looked at a couple options for turbo drain onto the pump but its going to be too close to get bolts in as well as the fitting on/in. 

Got the pulley pressed on today and emap wiring done. End up with a 4pk1050 belt and it all looks pretty lined up. We'll see if she stays on. 

EMAP wiring is into the cab now just have to wire it up to ecu. Shouldve marked the wires before i sleeved it all because its all white. 

Tomorrow ill finish wiring it in and then start looking at IACV mounting.

[robbo_rb180]

I used a combination of orb fittings to help with clearance. AC compressor and hoses fit too

[klutched]

EMAP is all wired up now as well as the IACV, also fixed up fuel pressure wiring was looking a bit shitty. Mounted IACV today, difficult to find a spot to suit with the hoses to come off it. Just need to get a few fittings and a weld on and I can plumb it up.

Been busy working on the house lately last few days. Pulled up all the floor boards in the bedrooms as we're going carpet which gets installed on monday. Painted the skirting boards to match the rest of the trims and had a couple door frames to do as well. Counting down the days until I dont have to get out of bed onto a bare concrete floor 😂

Spare boards have gone into the shed though. So much nicer to roll around on now. I think I might do the rest of the shed at some stage when I can be bothered taking everything out 😂

[Shoota_77]

You're killing it!  This is a great build.  You're right about getting the power steering hard line out, it's a dog of a job with the engine in the car!  There is a fitting you can buy I think from Speedflow or Proflow that converts the rack to AN fittings.  You can also buy a banjo to AN fitting that goes on the pump.  I got all the stuff but ended up going electric pump.  I wish I could tell you where I bought it all from and part numbers but god only knows where it all is now!

Keep it up, you're making awesome progress!

Love the floor in the shed too, that's awesome 😂

[klutched]

On 8/4/2021 at 9:12 AM, Shoota_77 said:

You're killing it!  This is a great build.  You're right about getting the power steering hard line out, it's a dog of a job with the engine in the car!  There is a fitting you can buy I think from Speedflow or Proflow that converts the rack to AN fittings.  You can also buy a banjo to AN fitting that goes on the pump.  I got all the stuff but ended up going electric pump.  I wish I could tell you where I bought it all from and part numbers but god only knows where it all is now!

Keep it up, you're making awesome progress!

Love the floor in the shed too, that's awesome 😂

Thanks mate. Yeah I definitely put that one in the too hard basket 😂 I might have another look at it later on if it keeps leaking. 

Got the fittings I needed to hook up the IACV and made the lines up. I pulled the bumper and cooler pipe out this arvo so I'll hopefully take it to my mates to get welded sometime this week and get it all back together... for now. 

Ordered a 3 way pressure sensor block to relocate all my sensors off the motor and all in one place. With that means ill have to rewire the sensors. So thought why not just rewire the engine loom with a bulkhead on the firewall and wire the stock loom on the inside and new tefzel/raychem on the outside. Which means if/when I get a new ecu I just have to rewire to the inside. Have started listing what I'm going to need for it. 

We put her on the dyno last wednesday to give it a tuneup after the manifold change. We now have boost down at 23-24psi on gate pressure which churned out about 670rwhp. Turned it up went around 780rwhp on 30psi and 873whp on 34-35psi. Need to sus out the emap because we are getting 23psi EMAP on 35psi boost. Dynos running new software which is probably why its down a bit to last time. But theres also an issue with the torque reading, was saying it was making 530ft lbs at 35psi 😬 anyway its all tuned up pretty good and on multiple boost levels so I can play around with boost myself now. Loaded in a boost curve so when its back together ill be able to test and see how it goes bringing it on like that. 

Also need to investigate whats going on with my reverse lights coming on through the run. They are wired in with the transbrake so I hope its not back feeding and trying to engage the transbrake through the run.... 

[Shoota_77]

The reverse lights are wired up as an assistant for the bloke that has now been left in your dust.  Helps him track you down a few kms up the road once he catches up! 😂

You might need to wire in a one way diode to make sure the voltage isn’t feeding back to the transbrake.

[Piggaz]

What’s wrong with 23 psi of E map for 35 psi of boost? 

[Lithium]

On 09/08/2021 at 1:11 PM, Piggaz said:

What’s wrong with 23 psi of E map for 35 psi of boost? 

Only thing I could imagine is that it suggests there is something wrong with how the EMAP is reading - that seems way too low, unless it means 23psi of excess EMAP versus IMAP (like, EMAP-IMAP = 23psi)

Epic build, either way - awesome to see it at this stage!

 

Edited August 9, 2021 by Lithium

[klutched]

On 8/9/2021 at 11:11 AM, Piggaz said:

What’s wrong with 23 psi of E map for 35 psi of boost? 

 

On 8/9/2021 at 12:12 PM, Lithium said:

Only thing I could imagine is that it suggests there is something wrong with how the EMAP is reading - that seems way too low, unless it means 23psi of excess EMAP versus IMAP (like, EMAP-IMAP = 23psi)

Epic build, either way - awesome to see it at this stage!

 

There's nothing wrong with that, but we need to check that it's actually correct. We were expecting it to be a lot closer than it is especially at 35psi. If its right then we can continue adding boost in 🙈 

Throughout the mulitple boost levels we have seen a 12-13psi difference so be interesting to see whats going on. 

On 8/9/2021 at 8:45 AM, Shoota_77 said:

The reverse lights are wired up as an assistant for the bloke that has now been left in your dust.  Helps him track you down a few kms up the road once he catches up! 😂

You might need to wire in a one way diode to make sure the voltage isn’t feeding back to the transbrake.

😂😂 yeah I think I'll wire the reverse lights off its own relay and see how we go

[klutched]

Not too much going on last week. Got the fitting welded on for the IACV so that's all plumbed up now. Just gotta get my mate to do his magic with it. 

Currently I'm running wheel speed off the pinion which maxes out around 130-140km/h which is less than ideal. Have ordered an ABS hub and a couple of cherry sensors to get wired in for driven and undriven wheel speeds. Not sure how I'm going to go with the factory abs ring as theyre 46 teeth which will only allow me to go down to 23 teeth. Might be time to ditch the G4+ and go something newer.

[robbo_rb180]

You could use a frequency divider to help drop it as I am getting bits together to wire a factory VR sensor to my Link and found a vr to hall converter with divider that I am hoping to get soon
 https://www.vems.com/vr-to-hall.html

[klutched]

On 8/15/2021 at 5:39 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

You could use a frequency divider to help drop it as I am getting bits together to wire a factory VR sensor to my Link and found a vr to hall converter with divider that I am hoping to get soon
 https://www.vems.com/vr-to-hall.html

Yeah I'm thinking about that, not sure what I need to divide on hall sensor though. 

[robbo_rb180]

so don't need to remove teeth from abs ring

 

[klutched]

On 8/17/2021 at 8:33 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

so don't need to remove teeth from abs ring

 

Yeah correct, have been told this contraption will divide the frequency. I believe you can set it up to divide 1/2, 1/4, 1/8 and 1/16. Cost a few dollars to setup each one so I'll give it a whirl and see how it goes otherwise I'll just have to deal with whatever speeds they give me. Currently 24teeth on the pinion with 3.69 gears, which is about 88 counts per rotation of the wheel and we're getting about 130-140km/h. So technically going to the 46 teeth should give me about 1.9 times more speed which will be almost what I need. Not 100% sure if thats correct though, but I'll find out and maybe only have to divide it by 2 which will be plenty if that calc is correct. 

[klutched]

Not much happening on the 33 lately. Was back up at fraser for a week and got a couple last minute mods done on the nav. 

Picked up a front bar and front EFS coilovers and managed to get them fitted for the trip. Was a busy week 😂 Bar was silver with black hoops so I stripped it down gave it a clean and started painting it with the cheapest paint I could find (export) 😂 it actually came up pretty good for an afternoon rattle can paint job.

Another good week was had up on the island, fishing was better than the last trip which is always good. Got a new shimano vanford combo for fathers day which was awesome fun. Few windys days but other than that it was 👌

Busy weekend this weekend aswell, picked up a new gym to get back down to a reasonable race weight. Pulled everything out of the shed and finished putting the old flooring down. Rearranged the shelving a bit and managed to fit the gym in there. 

Also finally picked up my viking shocks that came out of a mates car. Stripped them down and gave them a wipe. Fronts need new bushed up top and one needs a new spherical bearing down the bottom. Rears the upper mounts are a bit eh, they'll work but might put them in and see how it sits then maybe look at going to a nicer billet top.

Either way should be a night and day difference over my $350 coilovers 😂

Hopefully more progress soon

[klutched]

Well I've finally got the shocks in, did a few mods to them to get them to work better (hopefully). They had 250lb 12" front springs, and 14" 200lb rear springs. I swapped them around so now have the 14s on the front and 12s on the rear which should make it easier for the nose of the car to lift and transfer weight to the rear. 

Front shocks required the shock mount to be machined down a bit so I could get a few threads on to tighten them. The rears I lopped off the original shock mount and bolted them straight to the original shock mount with a spacer there because it was about an inch higher than where i wanted it. 

Had raychem dr25 and scl turn up so I got cracking with wiring up the new wheel speed sensors, I also rewired the pinion sensor on the diff. That's all hooked up and working just need another xsloom for the ecu and I can wire up the wheel speeds. 

Roll racing this Saturday. Few things left to do, wire up wheel speeds, alignment, ac gas and balance the rear tyres. That should be about it. Going to be cutting it fine

[Looney_Head]

are you using the factory ABS sensor locations for your wheel speed sensors? i'm trying to work out how to get non-driven wheel speed on my R32 which has no ABS previsions

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

man talking in pounds and miles really does my head in, we live in Australia bro.

[klutched]

On 11/17/2021 at 9:44 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

man talking in pounds and miles really does my head in, we live in Australia bro.

Hahaha you love it 😘 its just easier than saying 4.4562kg/mm or whatever it is😂 

On 11/17/2021 at 8:50 AM, Looney_Head said:

are you using the factory ABS sensor locations for your wheel speed sensors? i'm trying to work out how to get non-driven wheel speed on my R32 which has no ABS previsions

Yeah mate, factory with cherry sensors used. I put an ABS hub on the front and used the factory hole on the diff but I have nismo ABS half shafts