Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

9 hours ago, reaper said:

Just remember if comparing to mine it was done with the 6 speed and 3.545's so not exactly like for like vs 5 speed and 4.11's :)

It still belts the 5s any which way you look at it ?

Its 7lb bigger than the 5s too so the most impressive thing is the 80kw in the middle. Not just the top end number it kills it from the basement to redline.. 

Another interesting thing is that it looks like the gains would probably be better to just going to a single EFR than using v cam to try getting the twins on song sooner.

Even so you dont get the killer throttle response or how quick the EFR stands up on the street.

More power everywhere and its also alot smoother and linear power delivery than the twins.

So another win if you are on track as there really is no "hot spot" even if you apply half throttle its not gunna give you 90% of your power like the twins do. 

You only need  half power for a turn?  Apply half throttle and thats all you get!

Piggies car actually made 240kw at half throttle outta the 486kw he made on the dyno.

No other turbos do that to my knowledge?

Edited by Mick_o
On 12/21/2017 at 3:27 PM, BakemonoRicer said:

New EFR crew member checking in....

Manifold will be a 6boost w/ twin gates.

Wastegates will be tial mv-s.

Exhaust will be plumbed back via 3.5" downpipe

The EFR will be used on a SR20DET with a fully ported NAPREC head, big valve chamber with deleted squish pads.

ETA for completion is probably 6 months away.

Having been in a 2.8L EFR machine, the thing is completely mental and beats stock response with quadruple the power.  THEY ARE MAGIC fellas.

 

 

 

No VE Head ? Stock stroke ?
What EFR are you going to use ?
I should really get my s15 finished at some stage !

22 minutes ago, VFRegal said:

No VE Head ? Stock stroke ?
What EFR are you going to use ?
I should really get my s15 finished at some stage !

DET head but very tickled. Stock bottom end. When it pops a 2.2 with possibly a VE head will go on it.

Benny can let you know with turbo choice. It’s smaller than a 8374 or 9180 though. ?

I would just keep that head on Benny's and slap in better springs, slightly more aggressive cams and 2.2L it's mum all round.

No need for VE if you're not chasing silly numbers. A clean S14/15 head with carefully chosen parts ie not GT3071 and open scroll junk will be perfect for his requirements.

2.2L with his head, VCT, TS everything will happily make the power and deliver the boner response he would be after.

Once the box blows, put in a 5 speed Z32 and an convert his diff ratio to 3.9 from an auto.

  • Like 1

Nothing, and I mean no turbo in the world can spool up quite like an automatic gearbox will do it with a decent stall converter.

Going manual has certainly taken the buzz out of my EFR as everything seems laggy comparatively. Until you want to take a corner and all is forgiven.

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

Here is a mate's 2.8litre EFR9180 setup doing some laps at NZ's time attack series - bonus loose moment at the end of the timed lap :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3klPPfce7W0&t=2m20s

 

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1

Mine makes boost, needs more fine tuning and even more boost, got a missfire and a few other little niggly issues and then back at work. So still no 'final result'

Edit: E85 though which is great to have

Goes well though, can still hit full boost (25psi) in second gear with 50% throttle which is a laugh

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...