Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

r34 GTT brake upgrade

Hi Guys,

 

I have set of EBC 310 grooved and dimpled on my r34GTT

I installed it with ebc red stuff and I have to say brake performance is fu***ing sh*t

I think my kia picanto 1 liter is better than the skyline. I also changed the fluid to dot4 racing from castrol.

 

My hope is that I need to bleed the system and brake is ok. I have been lazy to do it as have hardly drived the car but I am using it frequently now.

I almost crashed it another day by failing to stop. it gets very soft and goes further down when braking hard .

Anyways, whilst I am going to do the bleeding , I thought I also change the caliper and rear discs to groved/dimpled.

It is the standard size of 310 at front and 295mm at back. would you invest £600 on pair of GTR brembo or change the disc to 350mm and get evo10 caliper and disc?

I spent in excess of £400 on the disc and the pads last time.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466946-r34-gtt-brake-upgrade/
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, stranger12 said:

That is the typical answer!

i have and been searching, i have seen evo10 355 may fit 

 

has anyone done it?

If you have been searching why are posting in the forced induction section instead of "suspension, braking and tyres" where there is a whole sticky on brake pads and the first post is on R34 GTT brakes? And a free tip - use Google for searching this site... and do the research before you spend the big bucks rather than after.

User error.

No way you're even going past the GT-t braking capabilities on the street. Many people use the same setup on their track cars and they seem to stop so there's no way you can possibly exceed their capabilities on the street.

Hey if you're keen on frying cash and funding any reason to do so, then that great but if you can't get a set of 310mm brakes to work then even a set of 350mm Evo brakes won't save you from installation error.

  • Like 2

I understand but I want to fix the brakes and ensure it is capable of stopping a 300rwkw car so hence the reason for my post

I was thinking to get gtr brembo caliper which are quite expensive

 

evo calipers are cheaper so I think it is a wise investment to change caliper and discs to evo 10

 

would i gain 25-30 braking power compared to original skyline?

 

Work out the current problem before going and wasting more money. Good pads, rotors, fluid and braided lines will stop a 300kw car no worries at all as long as they have been installed correctly

I upgraded the puny brakes on my heavy 320AWKW  Stagea  with GTT brakes and it was perfectly adequate on the street and even on the track for the first few laps. I only replaced them later for the track - would have been fine for street use.

Buy proper pads and discs, I owned EBC stuff too but for an S13 and OEM pads are way better than EBC shit. Rotors doesn't seem to be any better, they are way too hard so they just heat up and warp instead of slowing down the car.

cool, how do you guys bleed it using abs module ?

I don't have a software that can activate it , I normally bleed, drive for few hundred miles and bleed again in hope of all air from abs is bleed that way

 

I went ahead and bought set of evo 9 brembo calipers, it was £450 for two calipers rebuild plus red stuff pads

it looks cheap to me, how can I ensure it is actually evo 9 calipers and it is brembo ?

The brembo logo seems to be a paint only so anyone can fake. The guys claims he has also changed all of the pistons

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262612438947?_trksid=p2060353.m2748.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

I can cancel it if it seems fake to you guys

Edited by stranger12

No idea whether or not they are genuine but as about 4 or 5 people have told you there is nothing wrong with GTT brakes if you bleed them properly and use some decent pads. if you go to the brake forum you will see info on how to bleed your brakes properly (needs two people for best results).

Are u getting a larger master cylinder to go with the larger calipers? Are u also getting larger discs ? They won't b any good if they r not installed correctly again.
Have u even taken it to a proper mechanic to even have a look at your problem?

yes I am getting bigger master cylinder later.

I just want to improve it now and know my brakes can break my neck if needed :)

I do everything on the car myself and know it needs bleeding but hardly use the car and now want to change it anyway for above reason

 

I will then change the backs to 350 as well in the future

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...