Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

25 minutes ago, frakzz said:

EFR is expensive, how about Precision 6262?

Could of had EFR for the price of all these turbos you keep building and keep on getting the same shit results with! 

Step it up a game, GTX3584RS would be good fun. 

Or get a GTW3884, good on the wallet. Plenty of 2JZ boys are using them and making some decent HP with good response (no idea about transient throttle).

@timmy_89 might be able to comment :)

 

 

On 15.01.2018 at 10:34 PM, r32-25t said:

How about a Garrett gtx3582 

 I think to put 3582 0.82 T3 Twin Scroll

and still look at the turbines mambatek. but the difference in price is not big, I think it's worth it?

Edited by frakzz
  • 2 weeks later...
55 minutes ago, Super Drager said:

Someone i know of just ran 9.6 @ 143mph with GT2860s highflowed to gtx2871r. Z32 but still gt28 housings...

Nice, good!   I don't really know what packaging constraints Z32s do or don't have but I suspect this has little relevance to low mount twin configurations on GTRs due to the reasons which have been gone over many times.  The single turbos (at least the cores) of the GT28 range are well known to be capable of decent flow in their own right, but needing the smallest possible compressor and exhaust housings, limited space for dump pipes and compressor inlets the turbo starts getting all of the worst case scenario options for performing mean that they really aren't going to perform as well as they are capable of when used as stock location turbos on RBs.

  • Like 1
  • 6 months later...
On 10/19/2017 at 2:01 PM, frakzz said:

solenoid rsp 100%, ofs 100% (Full boost)

3000, os 12.6, boost 0.3, ign 35
3500, os 12.12, boost 0.5, ign 32
4000, os 12.24 boost 0.7, ign 27
4500, os 11.44 boost 0.84, ign 25
5000, os 11.44, boost 1.01, ign 23
5500, os 11.55, boost 1.17, ign 21
6000, os 11.27, boost 1.26, ign 20
6500, os 10.75, boost 1.29, ign 18
7000, os 10.35, boost 1.25, ign 19
7300, os 9.8, boost 1.33, ign 18

rb26 can not rotate these turbines anymore. What can I do to fix this?

On 11/22/2017 at 12:20 AM, frakzz said:

1.3 bar = 491rwhp

SOozgRoiLXs.jpg

 

I figured out what was the problem, the resonator created a back pressure in the exhaust system of 0.6 bar

 

I installed single mamba GT3582R (11 blades, t3 0.82 ts) on same confing

1.1 bar = 478whp

I'm going to cut out the resonator, then I'll make a graph for 2 bars

dyno

aee0d755-4f99-4c74-b75a-8c84207cde27.jpg

Edited by frakzz
  • Like 1
4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

That's the resonator, or a flexible joint?  Either way.....f**k!

it's a resonator, but I cut it out

but for some reason I can not boost more that 26 psi at 98bp

b9707d76-4246-4d1a-ae55-4a0712153e1d.jpg

Edited by frakzz
  • 6 months later...
On 1/18/2018 at 8:31 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Mamba turbos are good, I wouldn't be surprised if their parent company is actually making parts for Garrett as well.

Tell me more..?

Frakzz - If you want big twins in stock location, literally what ol Dosey says there might be a good starting point, Td05-18 or 20g's with billet wheels CHRA (yes thrust bearings) in a kit (including braided lines, gaskets and studs) for the same price as second hand -5's?

On 8/22/2018 at 9:49 AM, niZmO_Man said:

Acktually oil predates dinosaurs by a few 100 million years :P

hahaha. Nice.

But does it predate Godzilla? Didn't he kill off the dinosaurs? or was it a man in the sky

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...