Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I agree about the 30/35 size , but as I've said in the past I'd like to see a G28 as well because gut feeling is that a smidge more turbine than the G25 with a couple of compressor options is probably going to cover much of the hot roady needs .

If Garrett really does want volume sales they really need T3 and T4 turbine housings because for many 3" V band isn't an option . I'd like to see a G28 or G30 become the modern GT3076R T3 Integral Wastegate replacement . 

A .

Edited by discopotato03
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...

The new G30 and G35 series are going to be released soon - their turbines being pretty much the same in size to the GT30 and GT35 turbines respectively, but much higher flowing.

Expect to see things along these lines:

G30-660 - basically the G25-660 compressor on a G30 turbine

G30-770 - 58mm inducer, 71mm exducer with ~69lb/min flow

G30-900 - 62mm inducer, 76mm exducer with ~81lb/min flow

G35-900 - Same as above but on a G35 turbine

G35-1050 - 68mm inducer, 84mm exducer with ~95lb/min flow

Should mix things up a bit!

  • Like 2

I think the G30-770 (or G3071) could prove to be the perfect point for Skylines/GT-Rs which people are going for solid power with but don't quite want to go to the point of big transmission upgrades etc etc - it fills a gap which I've felt has been left empty by the high end turbo manufacturers for some time, basically offering the kind of power that people used to (or sometimes still) use GT3582Rs or GT2860R-5s to reach but I would hope with WAY better response.

When soon is, I have no idea - they aren't officially released yet, I usually try and share interesting news no matter how little (though I thought sizes and flow rates isn't THAT light) in asap as people would appreciate it being shared but apparently that's not enough so I'll just leave it from now, I guess folks at least have an idea of whats coming and that it can't be TOO far away.

Edited by Lithium
33 minutes ago, Mick_o said:

I have talked a customer into going a G30 770 when it comes out. He was about to pull the trigger on a 3576. It Will be going on a 2.3L Mivec 4G63. Should be a pretty chunky thing... 

 

That would be really interesting!!!  On paper it should be better all around, which would be nice :)

11 minutes ago, Butters said:

G35-1050  vs GT35 on spool will be interesting, can it match is and make 200 hp more ? 

I would put money on the G35-1050 (I'll call it G3584 because it makes more sense to me) being significantly laggier.  These turbos should be compared on flow, not size.

G3071 fits between a GTX3576R and GTX3582R in flow, or slightly more than an original GT3582R.

G3076 is roughly equivalent to a GTX3582R Gen2 in flow, or more intriguing for some, it looks like the G3076 could be quite a similar match to an EFR9174, and the G3576 quite similar to an EFR9180 - but with MUCH smaller wheels.

G3584 is drifting into the territory of a GTX4294R in flow.

If you compared any of those G-series turbos with the previous Garrett equivalents flow wise then I suspect they will be much more responsive, however if you compared wheel size wise then they will behave like bigger turbos - both laggier, but also making WAY more power... just the balance of power and response will be better.

 

Edited by Lithium

Sweet! That is some AWESOME info Lith. It looks like you got a bit upset with me asking when soon was, I meant no offence or intended to sound ungrateful. Will digest this tomorrow in more detail, But I have to say the 1050 looks ridiculously efficient at 3:1pr at high flows. It's still at 70% at full speed, With an amazingly low surge margin to match. If it's an 68/84 compressor it's got the EFR 8474 spanked, and is frankly incredible they managed to get 78% out of it at that wheel trim. 

 

I'm impressed. 

Edited by burn4005
10 hours ago, burn4005 said:

asking when soon was

NW.

On this topic, just to clarify - I am making an assumption that they must be coming soon given there are compressor maps and other bits of info leaking out... I have no direct feed myself, I just keep ears and eyes open and people flick me things when they see it as I am clearly interested in this kind of thing - then I share what I find.   There is no official announcement from Garrett at this stage so I wouldn't hold breath on how soon "soon" is until they actually say anything.   It still could be a wee while away.

3 hours ago, discopotato03 said:

Likely to be hard pressed to find much for a while - but I back the stuff I have posted to prove to be pretty on point once things show up, so should give a reasonable idea.

Now that it seems more won't be shared immediately, I'll add that the G30 had .61 and .83 vband exhaust housings as options and the G35 has the same range of options as the GTX3584RS, but flows a bit more for each a/r.

4 hours ago, discopotato03 said:

I'm really interested to see how the G30-660 will go on 2-2.5L 4s and 6s .  

I actually am more interested in seeing how the G25-660 goes, considering the .92a/r housing out flows most T3 options people use on RB25s as is.  It could be a banger of a thing.

  • Like 2
On 17/06/2019 at 5:10 PM, Lithium said:

The new G30 and G35 series are going to be released soon - their turbines being pretty much the same in size to the GT30 and GT35 turbines respectively, but much higher flowing.

Expect to see things along these lines:

G30-660 - basically the G25-660 compressor on a G30 turbine

G30-770 - 58mm inducer, 71mm exducer with ~69lb/min flow

G30-900 - 62mm inducer, 76mm exducer with ~81lb/min flow

G35-900 - Same as above but on a G35 turbine

G35-1050 - 68mm inducer, 84mm exducer with ~95lb/min flow

Should mix things up a bit!

To yoink from another thread, the compressor map for the G30-770.   This is the one from the range I have been REALLY looking forward to, at a glance the compressor flow is sufficient to compete with the likes of an EFR8374 but from a turbo whose wheel sizes are probably closest to the likes of an EFR7163.  This thing on a typical street/track spec RB could prove to be absolutely awesome.

]g30-770comp-map.thumb.jpg.764ec9207e31df1870c660d0562e43c6.jpg

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
    • To drain the Intake Heat Exchanger, there is a crappy drain plug in front of the driver's side front tyre: You should use the largest headed phillips screwdriver you had, and in my case I needed vice grips on the hose above as the plug was tight (tighter than it needed to be, since it has an o-ring seal).  After you have a tray down and open the drain, open the intake heat exchanger reservoir cap (drivers side one) and you should get a couple of litres of coolant To get to the radiator, you need to remove the plastic engine undertray. It is held on with a series of 10mm headed bolts and some clips. For the radiator, there is another type of crappy drain (kind of like a plastic banjo bolt) and you should attach a length of hose to direct the stream of coolant per this pic (otherwise the coolant hits the rad support and goes everywhere). The drain is on the rear of the radiator on the driver's side and a bit hard to find. Put a big tray or bucket down (5l won't be enough) and slowly unscrew the fitting by hand. You only want to remove it far enough for coolant to flow, it you unscrew it right out the whole fitting and direction pipe will come off and you will get a coolant bath (yum!). Undo the radiator reservoir cap and it should empty about 8l
    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You also need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator so you will need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. 2 other tools that really help dealing with coolant lines and spring clamps are Bent Needle Nose pliers Hose pliers Between them they will reduce the frustration (and injury) potential by about 1000% Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
×
×
  • Create New...