Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My R32 GTR currently has Reimax 60mm front pipe (was told 65mm when I bought it), but the Tomei dumps I recently had installed have 68mm exit.  Is it worth spending a few hundred getting a 70mm front pipe to match the dumps?  Will I loose low end torque with a bigger front pipe?

Also the Reimax front pipe has 80mm exit, but previous owner had a 76mm straight pipe installed.  Is it worth upgrading to a 80mm straight pipe?  The cat back section is also 80mm Reimax with 115mm tip.

Inputs appreciated!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473554-r32-gtr-front-pipe-question/
Share on other sites

Just watched it, very good info.  So going big decreases back pressure, but too big will also decreases velocity and decreases scavenging effect.

How about equal length?  There are half a dozen choices out there, some equal length some not.  For an NA engine equal length is likely important, but I'm not sure about turbo...

Should I also spend another few hundred for a 80mm straight pipe to replace my 76mm?

This is why twins are gay.

Single turbo, full divided housing, full divided manifold, equal length manifold is the only way to harness the scavenging effects. Less heat due to less restrictions, less piping, less blown 2nd turbo (because it doesn't' exist).

But back on topic, just go massive

No large power benefits to equal length more so the sound. The sound above 5000rpm with a equal length sounds HEAPS better than non-equal. Turbo engine you just want to get rid of the gases as quick as possible, bigger the better.

  • Like 1

Is there a brand preference?  Because the price range is really wide, almost 3x difference between highest and lowest. 

Mine's ¥72,986, HKS ¥54,481, HPI ¥45,678, Greddy ¥27,210.  All stainless steel except Greddy, which I think is mild steel but painted.

https://www.rhdjapan.com/mine-s-front-pipe-pro-stainless-steel-bnr32-bcnr33-bnr34.html

https://www.rhdjapan.com/hks-stainless-front-pipe-bnr32-bcnr33-bnr34.html

https://www.rhdjapan.com/hpi-single-front-pipe-bnr32-bcnr33.html

https://www.rhdjapan.com/trust-greddy-mx-front-pipe-bnr32.html

Yeah I saw the Midori front pipe too, but it is one of the few that is not equal length.  (and most titanium ones are not equal length)

I end up buying Greddy, which is cheaper but still equal length and weights slightly less than others because it is not stainless steel.  Where I live I do not need stainless steel anyways.  I also bought Tomei's titanium straight pipe.  Will see if anything improves after I have them installed and dyno'd during the next couple months.

Really?  Google Translate says it is :8_laughing:

http://www.trust-power.com/products/exhausts/greddy-mxフロントパイプ/

Product features

It is a front pipe pursuing smoothing of piping and optimization of pipe diameter. 
By improving exhaust efficiency, exhaust gas resistance immediately after turbocharger is greatly reduced, and efficient supercharging is promoted. 
For RB 26 DETT, it is designed to increase the exhaust efficiency by using exhaust pulsation by equalizing the length from the turbocharger to the collecting section.

I will measure it once I receive it to see how big is the length difference.  I will weight it too.

I didn't get HPI because they dent their pipe to make it fit (says so on their Japanese website and it shows on their product picture) instead of designing to make it fit.  HKS has 85mm exit, and my cat back section is 80mm, I didn't want to create another step down.  Midori is a true non equal length (at least Greddy tries to fake it).  https://www.rhdjapan.com/midori-seibi-center-front-pipe-sus-80mm-bnr32.html  Mine's is just very expensive and is made to order so will take a long time.

I bought mine from FRSport.com, they price-matched another webste so I paid $314.40 USD shipped.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...