Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alrighty guys,

So i've had a number of skylines over the last 5 years, since getting my first one in 2014. 

A number of R33 drift cars, a R32 drift car in japan @ ebisu circuit (for sale atm if anyone is keen :D), my original green 32 which I've built up over the last 5 years to a 500hp rb25 neo street weapon (this is also for sale...)

With the rising prices of GTR's these last few years..I thought I would never be able to afford a proper GTR without selling everything I own haha. I recently came across someone with a bare non rolling R32 GTR shell which luckily had not been posted for sale online. 

Luckily over the years, I have amassed quite a number of GTR body parts.

The plan is to pretty well fully rebuild the car with as much new items as possible (while not going crazy over the top).

This will take me a long time, but I hope to keep these page updated (unlike my first build post haha).

32 dusty.jpg

32 thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

First day the car arrived...

 

Thinking about what a mistake I had made hahaha.

 

At this stage I have the following genuine gtr parts for the car:

 

bonnet

drivers guard

boot and wing

n1 headlights

grille

 

I am also slowly gathering new rubbers and seals etc from places like Kudos etc.

 

32 with guard.jpg

  • Like 1

Within the first week, I bought a crashed gtst shell to steal as much as I could in the way of generic interior, rubbers, seals, rear bar and reo, rear window, quarter glass etc.

It also came with a genuine 32 GTR steering wheel for only $400...what a steal.

 

gtst.jpg

gtst2.jpg

  • Like 1

I also started stripping the sound deadening out of the gtr with dry ice and isopropyl alchohol. Tried the freeze cans but wasn't as effective as I thought it would be.

Once the car is stripped entirely of sound deadening material, the inside will be cleaned out and made as clean as possible. Still unsure whether I will be painting the interior yet. If anyone has done this before and has thoughts please be sure to let me know..

The body paint will be stripped, any necessary body work done and put in primer as I accumulate parts to put it back together.

 

sound deadening 1.jpg

sound deadening 2.jpg

sound deadning.jpg

  • Like 1

At this stage I have purchased both a complete rear and front subframe for $2750 which will get the car back to a rolling state. 

Yet to pick these up. But they will be stripped and completely revamped with new paint, bushes, etc before going in.

The next thing i'm waiting on is a car rotisserie so I can mount the shell, move it around and prep the underbody for a liner (like raptor etc). If anyone has done this as well,  advice and recommendations would be appreciated. I have lined up one to be picked up in about a month for free...so that should be good.

Edited by Tenny
  • Like 1

Congrats mate! Always brings a big smile to my face to see another BNR32 getting brought back to life :)

Remember, they are essentially a race car put into production, made to go around corners, FAST! 

Try to always keep that in mind. Best of luck, will be ?

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, R.3.2.G.T.R said:

Nice find, subscribed for updates
Are you replacing sound deadener with another like dynamat?

That is the plan at this stage..although I do know how heavy it is so not sure to what extent yet. I'm hoping to make the car fairly quiet to give it a more modern feel. Hopefully the underliner helps in doing that as well.

 

here is a photo of all my shed ornaments as of tonight....

shed.jpg

Nice thread, I'm curious on the sound deadener removal, what's the exact process you followed with the dry ice? 

Is it a matter of dump in and wait and after a minute or so hit with a hammer to break it? 

28 minutes ago, MBS206 said:

Nice thread, I'm curious on the sound deadener removal, what's the exact process you followed with the dry ice? 

Is it a matter of dump in and wait and after a minute or so hit with a hammer to break it? 

I picked up 5L of isopropyl from a cleaning supplier for $20. You mix a decent amount of the ice, crushed into almost a powder, with a few dashes of the alchohol until it becomes like a slurry. Pour that on the sound deadening and leave it for a few minutes until you hear the cracks / pops stop. Then scoop the ice onto another part of the deadening and smash the previous bit with a rubber mallet from underneath if you can. Then using a scraper you can flake off really large pieces. Rinse and repeat.



I picked up 5L of isopropyl from a cleaning supplier for $20. You mix a decent amount of the ice, crushed into almost a powder, with a few dashes of the alchohol until it becomes like a slurry. Pour that on the sound deadening and leave it for a few minutes until you hear the cracks / pops stop. Then scoop the ice onto another part of the deadening and smash the previous bit with a rubber mallet from underneath if you can. Then using a scraper you can flake off really large pieces. Rinse and repeat.


So, is this a job for amateurs? I.e. can it be destructive if the ratios are incorrect or you leave it on for too long etc. I started mine and found some areas - especially the wheel arches - came off in seconds but then the floor was terrible to do.

Awesome project mate!
Just now, Robzilla32 said:


 

 


So, is this a job for amateurs? I.e. can it be destructive if the ratios are incorrect or you leave it on for too long etc. I started mine and found some areas - especially the wheel arches - came off in seconds but then the floor was terrible to do.

Awesome project mate!

 

Yeah definitely. I've never restored a car before and never tackled sound deadening before either. I'm only 25 so learning a lot as well. 

Just be careful not to hit it too hard and dint the floor :)

  • Like 1
14 hours ago, Robzilla32 said:


 

 


So, is this a job for amateurs? I.e. can it be destructive if the ratios are incorrect or you leave it on for too long etc. I started mine and found some areas - especially the wheel arches - came off in seconds but then the floor was terrible to do.

Awesome project mate!

 

I went through this with my 32(GTR) and found it unreliable and slow. Went down to BOC gases (Australian gas chain), got 9 litres of liquid nitrogen and a container for something like $46, then used that. One of the most fun things you can do with a car. You just pour it out, everything starts cracking immediately and you'll see it start popping up on its own, then you just put it in a bag. Easy, quick, and you get to play with liquid nitrogen.

One of those strange situations where you're like "so, I don't even need to give you my ID... you're just giving me liquid nitrogen to do whatever I want with and it's cheap?... OK, that seems like something which needs to be way better regulated, but I'll take it". 

Had about a litre left over, so I poured it over some bananas and let my niece and nephew smash them with a hammer. Good clean fun.

  • Like 2
  • Haha 2
44 minutes ago, Veilside R33 said:

I went through this with my 32(GTR) and found it unreliable and slow. Went down to BOC gases (Australian gas chain), got 9 litres of liquid nitrogen and a container for something like $46, then used that. One of the most fun things you can do with a car. You just pour it out, everything starts cracking immediately and you'll see it start popping up on its own, then you just put it in a bag. Easy, quick, and you get to play with liquid nitrogen.

One of those strange situations where you're like "so, I don't even need to give you my ID... you're just giving me liquid nitrogen to do whatever I want with and it's cheap?... OK, that seems like something which needs to be way better regulated, but I'll take it". 

Had about a litre left over, so I poured it over some bananas and let my niece and nephew smash them with a hammer. Good clean fun.

True. I had heard of that before but not tried it. Does the Liquid nitrogen just evaporate shortly after? how do you deal with putting it on vertical areas etc?

4 hours ago, Tenny said:

True. I had heard of that before but not tried it. Does the Liquid nitrogen just evaporate shortly after? how do you deal with putting it on vertical areas etc?

It evaporates almost instantly (2-3 seconds). For vertical areas, you need to use a little more. With flat areas the few seconds of contact is sufficient to achieve the result, but on vertical areas I found it needed a few seconds of being poured over with it to get the temp low enough to crack the bond.

It’s also not as dangerous as, I think, most of us assume. I managed to get a bit in my hair and on my hands and nothing happened at all. It’s effectively just super cold, not toxic, so as long as it doesn’t remain in contact for long, nothing happens.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...