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BK's eternal money pit build - 1989 R32 GTR single turbo


BK
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Well here we go again, time to FINALLY as promised start the GODZILR build thread that has been in progress, or shall we say "development hell" for 13 years now - THE MONEY PIT IS HERE !

For more info from the past and the bullshit I've been through with this car, start here

Which led to this

Then this happened....

 

The car has been a major pain in the arse for years. After many different setups and rebuilds, I've considered everything from selling it to burning it ! (Well I almost really did as above....). But I didn't. I decided if I'm going to keep it I may aswell go all the way with it, and get it to what I would consider to be a very well rounded street / drag / track setup.

Maybe there is light at the end of the tunnel now, as it is finally properly alive and running in the new engine as we speak.

I have now done 20km and counting....

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I'm working away at the moment and bored, so I have time to mention the current build details completed as of 1st of Feb. 2020. June 2021

OCTOBER 1989 TH1 NISSAN BNR32 SKYLINE GT-R – BNR32-002605

 
 

·         ENGINE – SHORT

·         Nitto 2800cc full stroker kit (Fully balanced to 10000rpm)

 

·         Assembled and balanced further by Croydon Racing Developments (CRD)

·         Nitto billet steel full counter balance 77.7mm crankshaft

·         Nitto billet steel 121.5mm I - beam conrods

·         ARP 2000 3/8” rod bolts

·         JE forged aluminium 87.0mm pistons - custom 21mm pin height with thin rings (top ring 1.0mm, 2nd ring 1.2mm)

·          ACL race main + conrod bearings - STD clearance

·          New factory Nissan 05U RB26 block prepped / machined by CRD

·          Nitto 120psi competition oil pump w/ billet backing plate/gears modified by CRD

·          Nitto drag spec triple layer metal head gasket 1.2mm

·          Nitto 1.1mm head to block oil restrictor

·          Frenchy’s rear turbo oil drain block off plate

·          ARP 2000 main studs

·          ARP custom age 625+ head studs

·          Ross Tuffbond metal jacket 2 piece billet alloy harmonic balancer with 12 tooth crank trigger disc

·          R32 GTR standard 8 blade Nissan OEM water pump

·          Nismo 62c thermostat

·          Ross heat exchanger delete plate

·          Lewis engines custom 8 litre race sump with internal swing baffles

 

 

·         ENGINE – HEAD AND TURBO

·          Precision ball bearing Gen2 CEA PT6466 1.00 a/r T4 twin scroll to V-band turbo

·          Turbosmart 44 micron turbo oil supply filter

·          Modified head porting from Start racing Japan

·          New standard valve guides and 05U valves

·          Apexi GT step 2 - 264/264deg. 32mm base circle 10.6mm high lift camshafts

·          2 x Apexi adjustable camshaft gears

·          Tomei high tensile steel cam stud kit

·          Supertech dual valve springs with titanium retainers

·          Supertech viton valve stem seals

·          Mines rocker cover breather baffle kit

·          Nismo timing belt

 

 

·         EXHAUST

·          Trust drag spec twin scroll divided T4 single gate turbo manifold

·          Trust / Greddy 47mm type R external wastegate with purple 1.5bar spring

·          50mm wastegate outlet plumbed into system – removable screamer option

·          Modified HKS 3.5” / 90mm stainless front / dump pipe with Precision 90mm V band and clamp

·          2 x HKS 3” / 75mm flat stainless parallel cat converters

·          Custom Start racing Japan 100mm mild steel cat back system with true 100mm / 4” muffler

 

 

·         ENGINE – OTHER STUFF

·          Ross performance full crank trigger kit. GT101 hall sensors on crank and cam home

·          Latest revision Hitachi RB starter motor

·          ARD 150A low resistance alternator

·          Wiring specialties complete new engine harness

·          Wiring specialties smart coil harness

·          Wiring specialties knock sensor harness

·          Wiring specialties EV1 to EV1 injector extension pigtails

·          R35 VR38 genuine Nissan coilpacks ignition system

·          Godzilla motorsport billet alloy coilpack bracket

·          NGK Iridium R7436 (supersedes R5686) racing series 8 spark plugs – 0.7mm gap

·          Cusco alloy radiator air guide

·          UAS top mount oil/air separator kit w/ secondary Auto staff catch can w/ K+N breather filter – PCV valve deleted

·          Franklin engineering head drain kit with -10AN braided line

·          HKS 80mm cast alloy intercooler hard piping kit

·          Trust drag tube and fin intercooler - 620 x 300 x 102mm

·          2 x Turbosmart dual port blow off valves

·          Trust/Grex 13 row oil cooler kit (w/ filter relocation and 70c thermostat) 299 x 186 x 50mm core

·          Nismo oil filter

·          Simota 5”pod style air filter

·          Tomei metal throttle body / exhaust / intake manifold gaskets

·          Trust clear timing gear cover

·          Samco sport full silicone heater hose kit - blue

·          Samco sport 3 ply silicone radiator hose kit - blue

·          PWR 42mm full aluminium radiator

·          Garage active upgraded coolant recovery and wiper washer reservoir tanks

·          R134A aircon conversion

·          R33 charcoal canister

·          Reimax throttle body seals (refresh and enhancement set)

 

 

·         ENGINE MANAGEMENT

·          Haltech ELITE 2500 ECU

·          Haltech GTR elite ECU plug and play harness

·          Haltech WB1 wideband kit with Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor

·          Haltech flex fuel / temp sensor

·          Haltech 4 bar MAP sensor

·          Haltech 150psi fuel pressure sensor

·          Haltech 3 port MAC valve for boost control

·          Hella M12 fast response air temp sensor 6PT 009 109 041

·          Bosch 10bar / 140deg oil pressure and temp sensor

 

 

·         FUEL SYSTEM

·          6 x Bosch EV14 1550cc @ 3bar injectors. Flow matched by Golebys. KMS 10.5mm full length adaptors.

·          NZ EFI injector ballast delete fitting

·          SX / Edelbrock AN6 adjustable fuel pressure regulator

·          Aeroflow 38mm 150 psi fuel pressure regulator gauge

·          Trust 10.5mm twin entry fuel rail

·          Modified factory fuel tank top hat with AN8 fittings, 6mm bulkhead wiring terminals

·          Twin Speedflow 200 series teflon – AN8 braided line pump to rail feeds. Single AN8 return line.

·          Too many bloody -AN8 Speedflow 200 series fittings everywhere

·          Gates submersible 3/8”100psi hose in-tank fuel lines

·          100A 10mm2 fuel pump supply cabling. 6mm2 fuel pump switched wiring per pump.

·          1 x AEM 50-1200 340lph@40psi E85 in-tank fuel pump

·          2 x AEM 50-1009 400lph@40psi E85 external fuel pumps to fuel rail (staged 2nd pump activation)

·          2 x Speedflow 044 check valves (M12 to -8AN)

·          Speedflow 602 large 40 micron AN6 fuel filter - main tank to surge tank

·          Speedflow 602 large 40 micron AN10 fuel filter - surge tank to fuel rail

·          UAS 4L aluminium surge tank w/ Perspex enclosure in boot

 

·         DRIVELINE

 

·          PAR Engineering 1st - 4th straight cut dog box with OS giken centre plate, PAR upgraded billet shifter barrel interlock, PAR upgraded billet selector forks, PAR billet 28.5mm GM 26t spline input shaft, standard synchro/helical 5th and reverse.

·          Gearset prepared by Sam at Neat Gearboxes in Adelaide. (Case bead blasted, new bearings, crack tested, shot peened and isotropic super finish)

 

·          Transfer case fully rebuilt and modified to 10 plate clutchpack

·          Midori Seibi digital high performance G sensor - RED

·          Nissan 350Z cast alloy solid push clutch fork upgrade

·          KMS Chromoly clutch fork pivot ball

·          Nismo 25% reduction quick shift kit

·          GKtech shift springs - hard

·          ATS spec 1 push carbon triple plate clutch. 1350kg pressure plate, optioned carbon treated floating discs, full carbon friction plates, 26t centre hub, chromoly 6.5kg flywheel

·          Nissan 3/4” push clutch slave cylinder - standard

·          Nismo transmission mount

·          Superpro polyurethane transmission crossmember bushes

·          APP stainless braided teflon coated full clutch line to slave

·          Quaife helical front limited slip differential

·          Quaife helical rear limited slip differential

·          Rear 31t spline half shaft upgrade (from stock 30t)

·          Trust cast aluminium extended rear diff housing

·         

 

·         BRAKES AND SUSPENSION

 

·          Front – Stock R32 GTR 4 piston w/ Intima SR pads

·          Front – DBA4000 slotted and ventilated rotors

·          Rear – Standard R32 GTR twin piston w/ Intima SR pads

·          Rear – DBA4000 ventilated rotors

·          Standard Front and rear adjustable strut braces

·          Whiteline Urethane front upper control arm bushes

·          Whiteline Urethane rear sub frame cradle bushes

·          Whiteline polyurethane rear lower shock mount bushes

·          Whiteline polyurethane rear diff mount bushes

·          Whiteline 22mm adjustable front sway /anti-roll bar

·          Whiteline 24mm adjustable rear sway /anti-roll bar

·          Whiteline front + rear swaybar links with polyurethane bushes

·          Cusco adjustable front castor tension rods

·          Whiteline adjustable rear upper control arms – KCA118

·          Whiteline adjustable rear upper radius arms – KCA117

·          Tein Mono Flex full height and 16 way damper adjustable suspension - 7kg front, 7kg rear spring rates

 

·         WHEELS AND TYRES

 

Street / Track

·          Rays engineering NISMO GT1 Volk racing forged wheels 18”x10” +20 offset

·          Hankook Ventus Z232 RS4 265/35R18

·          Rays engineering Volk racing GT1 centre caps

·          Rays engineering wheel nuts

Drag

·          R33 GT-R 17"x9” +30 offest alloy wheels - Mickey Thomson E/T Street II - 275/40R17

 

·         INTERIOR

 

·          Cusco Safety 21 6-point CDS roll cage

·          2 x Bride Brix 2 reclinable racing front bucket seats

·          2 x Bride S13/S14 type MO super low seat rails

·          Genuine Nissan R32 GTR Skyline floor mats – full set

·          Genuine Nismo leather gearshift knob

·          Blitz 1-10 min. turbo timer (I should really fk this off)

·          Mongoose M80 immobiliser / security

·          Sony 4 x 50w CD/MP3 head unit

·          Nismo 260km/h speedometer gauge

·          Haltech 52mm GaugeArt can bus gauge

·          60mm exhaust temp / pyro gauge

·          HKB ON-110 steering wheel boss kit

·          Momo sports steering wheel

 

 

·         EXTERIOR

·          Genuine Nismo full ABS plastic bodykit (N1 front bumper ducts, Nismo side skirts, Nismo rear mud guard)

·          N1 reflector headlights with H4 and H3C globes

·          ANDRA approved external battery isolator

·          Attain carbon fibre rear bumper exhaust guard

·          Kansai services racing front tow mount

 

 

·         OILS AND FLUIDS

·          Engine oil – Castrol Edge 10w-60

·          Coolant – Castrol Radicool

·          Power steering – Castrol ATF Dex III

·          ATTESA hydraulics – Castrol ATF Dex III

·          Transmission – Motul Gear competition 75w-140

·          Transfer case – Castrol Transmax Z

·          Front diff – Motul Gear competition 75w-140

·          Rear diff – Motul Gear competition 75w-140

·          Brake fluid – Castrol React Performance Dot 4

 

 

I think that's about it from what I can remember right now ? 😔

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  • 5 months later...

Geez well, on this latest incarnation, which I call build 5 on this car I really haven't calculated it yet - but it's a lot. I have a folder that is 3 inches thick that I am going to go through one day. Off the top of my head though $30k for example has gone into just the latest short motor and transmission, but annoyingly that's just I drop in the ocean for this car really. Lets just say the count is six figures since purchase....

This cars spec has always been very fluid, so nothing has ever really stayed the same. 3 different ECU setups, at least 6 different gearbox combinations, 5 different clutch combinations, 3 different blocks, 5 different forged bottom ends including 2 x Nitto 2.8s, never ending fuel pump changes, nearly burning the car down from engine loom melting - the list is endless with changes and failures and it all adds up. Yeah it's been tiring and frustrating, but I think I might have finally got this thing to the vision I imagined for the car.

I do have some updates for this car I have to get around to mentioning when I go through my photos, like I finally got to piss my aging Falkens off end of April and get some new AD08R goodness.

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  • 4 months later...

Been trying to find the time to actually work on my own cars. Got a few things done recently like actually fitted the ARD 150 amp alternator. Got round to replacing the Nismo 1.3bar radiator cap in the PWR radiator to a proper Stant 16psi lever cap as recommended by PWR.

Removed the brand new AD08R yokies from the GT1 wheels and replaced them with new Hankook RS4. Big reason is I think the 265 AD08 seemed just a tad too big, the 265 RS4 is noticeably narrower from sidewall to tread and fit better. The AD08s went onto my R33 TE37s to replace the very aged V103s so they weren't wasted and fit a lot nicer to that car.

So today I'm off to tackle finally installing the Ross crank trigger kit that I got about 18 months ago. Never done one before but hopefully this will be pretty straightforward.

IMG_20200412_145209_6.jpg

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Also found a couple of pics of when the Precision 6466 went in to replace the ageing HKS. Went from this:

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To this:

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Yes it's always been a wicked to drive car, with very wicked breakages to go with it. Power delivery was like a light switch before when it was running 10s. This time around so far, so good - everything feels as it should. Handles good, very progressive off boost and the dog box operates well.

I am still yet to really lean on the car in kill mode as it hasn't seen a dyno since the 6466 has gone on. Making sure all the bugs are ironed out first. All tuning so far has been done by myself on the elite. That's why I thought I better pull my finger out and fit the rest of the trigger kit so I get it running on E85 (just need more tuning) and can turn the wick up. Found the rest of my trigger kit finally

 

IMG_20201126_123705_1.jpg

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Interesting you say the AD08's appeared wider...

I have some 265 x 35 AD08's and I get scrubbing yet my other wheels with 275 x 35 NT01's nothing...

Admittedly there is 10mm difference in offset but I never thought the actual tyre width may vary, mmmmm...

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Yep the Advan AD08R in 265/35R18 was even wider than the Advan V103 in 275/35R18. I found a comment somewhere online that someone was complaining that the RS4 Hankooks in 265 was narrower than AD08R, and if so that would fit nicer for me. So I looked up the difference and sure enough the sidewall was nearly the same but the tread area on the RS4 was definitely 10mm narrower - both 265. So I went for those and they are definitely much nicer. No scrubbing at a ride height of about 355mm and camber at -1.0 front and -1.25 rear (I think). As mentioned above at least I just put the 265 AD08Rs on the 33 GTR so they were not wasted.

Really the correct AD08R should be 255 on a 32. I know now what to use for AD08R on 18" and will be sticking with:

R32 GTR - 255

R33 GTR - 265

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  • 2 weeks later...

Some pics of what used to be on the car when I was first building it. Wow, how things change...like some of these photos before smart phones existed.

Sard fuel pressure reg and Sard 660cc injectors

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Apexi Power FC PRO with ignition cut and launch control - WOW !

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My first Trust 6 speed straight cut dog engagement transmission because...

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this happened to the standard gear GTR gearbox then....WP_20180930_20_42_30_Pro.thumb.jpg.5148e12880eabb632abc7694d21e31be.jpgWP_20180930_20_42_53_Pro.thumb.jpg.05758f9196b6066662dbb0c9a44d3035.jpg

 

this happened to the Trust 6 speed straight cut dogbox anyway 🤦‍♂️ This was 3rd from memory.

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An OS Giken 5 speed replaced these and amazingly I did not break that, even drag racing. But I did feel the ratios of the OS giken box to be not so suited to the HKS turbo fitted at the time, and it was also a helical / synchro box. So I sold that OS giken 5 speed while it was in good condition so I could....

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that's right, go and buy another Trust 6 speed. Again ! 🤦‍♂️ Don't have pictures of this one busted as these pictures above are actually after 3rd and 4th have been replaced. Between buying, destroying and repairing 2 x Trust boxes and 1 x OS giken 5 speed gearset running just on this car, I'd definitely spent more than just originally purchasing a sequential like an OS-88 or a Holinger.

But I'm stubborn and want my straight cut H pattern dog, which basically came down to PPG or PAR really being the only ones doing what I want.

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1808323828_Newfilej.thumb.jpg.ebe2863c8d93e45b68901c26959956d2.jpg766532492_Newfileh.thumb.jpg.6c0fddd0044f162c24d65a7a5f323576.jpg349409871_Newfile1.thumb.jpg.e9a30981e112d5929a2c4f9d937def5e.jpg

PAR eventually got the nod over the PPG for two reasons.

1. PAR has optional billet interlock shift barrel

(PPG makes you use the factory sintered one)

2. PAR I could choose to have synchro + helical 5th with 1st - 4th straight cut dogs.

(PPG 1st -5th straight cut dog only)

If I could have optioned the above with PPG I most likely would have went the Pfitzner route as the price difference was negligible. Bolted it to a modified 10 plate transfer case and the gearset assembled on OS giken billet centre plate with GM 28.5mm, 26 spline input shaft.

This box is still intact.

So far.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Managed to get a few more things done on it in between working on the other 32. Got some more road tuning done and realised the speed reading in the Elite was way out. Standard pulses per km was around 2450, which was giving me about an indicated speed of around 30km/h when doing about 60 -70km/h. Changed it to about 1200 pulses per km and seems to have corrected it to very close to the factory dash. I'll do another calibration next time with a GPS to get an exact pulse count to get it exact.

One thing that annoys me no end is the R32 radiator recovery bottle and washer bottles always destroy themselves from years of heat. I've replaced them before but now they are a Nismo heritage item they are about $350 - $400 per washer or coolant bottle - and the bastards don't even come with caps ! After much digging the Jap company Garage active do an aftermarket replacement 32 set at about $450 for the pair. They are constructed a lot more solidly and thicker than the factory items and even comes with caps and washer motors. While I was down there I replaced a few random clips, replaced the headlight chassis rubbers and threw in a new factory battery tray.

IMG_20201212_111604_8.thumb.jpg.efa2e6e8c6c2d710a5f47ef6dfa8ff05.jpg

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Also found a few of the old dyno sheets for blue 32 from about 10 - 11 years ago when I was running a 2.6 and the HKS turbo. All runs were on 98 except the blue trace on the Willall mainline which was on VP 109 unleaded. Yeah it made power before but was disappointingly only good for 10s. Note the Willall runs were done on the 2nd 2.6 motor with Arias 7.0 low comp pistons and the Dyno dynamics done on my 3rd 2.6 build in this car with 9.0 comp CP pistons and new balanced long nose crank.

 

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IMG_20200713_121557_6.jpg

IMG_20200713_121622_7.jpg

IMG_20200713_121539_0 - Copy.jpg

Also finished the Ross full crank trigger kit install and configuration which I'll shed some more light on at a later date.

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8 minutes ago, BK said:

Managed to get a few more things done on it in between working on the other 32. Got some more road tuning done and realised the speed reading in the Elite was way out. Standard pulses per km was around 2450, which was giving me about an indicated speed of around 30km/h when doing about 60 -70km/h. Changed it to about 1200 pulses per km and seems to have corrected it to very close to the factory dash. I'll do another calibration next time with a GPS to get an exact pulse count to get it exact.

One thing that annoys me no end is the R32 radiator recovery bottle and washer bottles always destroy themselves from years of heat. I've replaced them before but now they are a Nismo heritage item they are about $350 - $400 per washer coolant bottle - and the bastards don't even come with caps ! After much digging the Jap company Garage active do an aftermarket replacement 32 set at about $450 for the pair. They are constructed a lot more solidly and thicker than the factory items and even comes with caps and washer motors.

 

Hey BK,

Is this the washer bottle set you are referring to?

https://www.nengun.com/garage-active/washer-tank-reservoir-tank

Cheers

Rob

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On 11/01/2021 at 2:18 PM, hattori hanzo said:

TH1! love it

Yeah only about 3% of them had it. The old man didn't believe it was a factory colour at first. Dude when I finally hit the dyno this year if it punches out what your 6466 does I'll be more than satisfied.

On another note of completely random observation, I was in the Platinum racing site looking at random stuff and noticed they are now an agent for PAR engineering. 

Had a look at the straight cut dog box gearset and thought the photo looked familiar on their site:

Screenshot_20210113-224127.png

 

Definitely seen it somewhere before.....

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10 hours ago, BK said:

 

Yeah only about 3% of them had it. The old man didn't believe it was a factory colour at first. Dude when I

 

2.8 and a 6466 seems to be a good combo

 

My engine is apart at the moment getting rings and bearings, Head has been CNC and shimless by RAMS and a new plasmaman intake manifold and intercooler for good measure.

Keen to see how much more mph we can get out of the 6466

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On 13/01/2021 at 6:01 PM, hattori hanzo said:

2.8 and a 6466 seems to be a good combo

 

My engine is apart at the moment getting rings and bearings, Head has been CNC and shimless by RAMS and a new plasmaman intake manifold and intercooler for good measure.

Keen to see how much more mph we can get out of the 6466

have they put the new technology into the 6766 yet? my understanding the 6466 is still the better turbo. i was going to go the 6766 and was talked out of it by a few members sayings makes same power with less response.

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    • I picked up my diff today. Both their shop manager and machinist wanted to have a chat prior to me leaving. Conversation started with "Where did you buy these garbage parts? What's the name of the company?" They actually went on Speedtek's website during our conversation and made what I think is the best gear head joke I've ever heard after seeing they make straight cut gears. "They've probably only gotten away with selling straight cut gears as they'll make noise whether they're properly machined or not. People are none the wiser" The humor made the 2500$ in the hole I'm in after this whole experience a little better lol. They also pointed out that not only did they find identical issues on both ring and pinions that Speedtek had sent, but that by eye you can see the pinion teeth do not have the same profile from one end to the other.  They went on about this being the worst diff job they've ever done and how it was a colossal waist of time. Luckily after mentioning how I purchased another diff to learn how to assemble them, they were nice enough to give me a crash course on diff assembly on another diff they were currently doing. I like to tell myself they did this to be nice but deep down, I know it's to be extra certain they'll never see me there again lol.  Speedtek was pushing for a store credit but I'll never feel confident purchasing from them again due to their third world machining techniques and QC. I just asked for a full monetary refund.  I'll pop the diff back in this Friday and take it for a spin if the streets are clear of snow. 
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