Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

8 minutes ago, Predator1 said:

I have a EFR 9180. I want to max my turbo and see what she makes.

You should be able to hit 450awkw as long as the tune is spot on.

Hopefully man! I've started this project last year on the 1st December, so if I can finish it by December this year I would be a very happy man!

Do you have a build topic? 

Hi all,

Back again with more questions ?

Is this something I have to get it fixed now or? Can I get away with leaving it for now and replace it /get it fixed when the car is in running condition? 

Also ordered new transmission cross member bushings as mine weren't looking that great

 

623906929.jpg

 

Edited by oktaytrz
  • 2 weeks later...

UPDATE

The picture below was taken on the 9th Oct. A lot has been happening in the past week whilst I was away. Ordered all the fittings, and the fab work started. (It is starting to look like a car now!😆)

Will be uploading another progress picture later today when I go in to check it out. 

20201009_164553.jpg

PROGRESS:

Fab work is going well. 

Ordered the following parts:

-Haltech flexfuel sensor, oil pressure, fuel pressure etc sensors

-FPR2000

-Will be ordering the Frenchies baffled in tank twin pump set up this week.

IMG_20201022_063312_608.jpg

  • Like 2

UPDATE;

Ordered the Frenchies baffled twin pump fuel system kit including 2x Walbro 460 pumps.

I think we are tracking well to finish the car early December. 

What is remaining;

-Complete the engine bay (fittings, hoses, catch can set up etc)

-Plumbing is still on going

-Frenchies system to go in

-Custom 3.5inc exhaust to be made and fitted

-DYNO 

  • Like 1

Any reason you're going 3.5' exhaust and not 4'? I've just gone from a 3.5' to a 4' system on 98RON. This allowed me to run more boost (Ignition timing was close at only 18psi using -5's with the 3.5'). With the 4' exhaust and 4psi of boost added, I gained 40kw at the wheels. I'd definitely be going 4' if you're paying for a custom system anyway.

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, GDZ32 said:

Any reason you're going 3.5' exhaust and not 4'? I've just gone from a 3.5' to a 4' system on 98RON. This allowed me to run more boost (Ignition timing was close at only 18psi using -5's with the 3.5'). With the 4' exhaust and 4psi of boost added, I gained 40kw at the wheels. I'd definitely be going 4' if you're paying for a custom system anyway.

Could do 4' as well but I personally prefer the 3.5'. I think for the power I am chasing which is mid to high 400 kw's. You have a valid point tho.

In my opinion, no need to overkill.. the car will be run on E85 most of the time even tho we're going with a flex fuel set up, so we don't see the need for a 4' to chase a few extra kw's. I think it all comes down to personal preference and the power you'd like to achieve. 

 

  • Like 1

UPDATE:

FPR2000 is installed.

Haltech Flexfuel sensor is installed.

Catch can and the pod filter pipe will be painted gloss black this week so the engine bay should look a little more nicer.

20201103_164821.jpg

  • Like 1
45 minutes ago, oktaytrz said:

UPDATE:

FPR2000 is installed.

Haltech Flexfuel sensor is installed.

Catch can and the pod filter pipe will be painted gloss black this week so the engine bay should look a little more nicer.

20201103_164821.jpg

hey mate ive been folowing your build from the start just wanted to say looks awesome and keep being patient its going to be a thing of beauty! that piping work/welds look awesome best of luck getting it together and making the hp when the time comes. what a beast good choice on the haltec as well.

14 hours ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

hey mate ive been folowing your build from the start just wanted to say looks awesome and keep being patient its going to be a thing of beauty! that piping work/welds look awesome best of luck getting it together and making the hp when the time comes. what a beast good choice on the haltec as well.

hey mate, I know you have! you've helped me with this build as well (especially with identifying whether I had the long or short nose crank collar) appreciate the help🙏

My mechanic's welding skills are on point. Hoping to get the car before xmas so I can start on prep on the rest of the body and paint it during my xmas break!

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...