Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello every,

Cool site here.

Ive read through lots of stuff here, older stuff and have some questions.

I am going to buy a R32 GTST or a GTR if I have the money.

 

If I get a R32 GTST and dont do the RB25 swap, with the stuff thats out today,{turbos, etc} is there any way to make the GTST with 400-450 hp and be responsive on the street so Civic Type R's and 370's arent blowing by me?

If I get a R32 GTR, is there any way to make a good 500-600 hp and have decent torque for the street?

 

Edited by Yoshiii
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480467-questions-about-r32-gtst-and-gtr/
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, UWISSH! said:

T51r is the answer to all your questions 

Will check it out

7 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

T88 turbo, journal bearing with open scroll.

Will check it out

6 hours ago, mlr said:

 

Yes, there we go 

 

Thank you for the inputs.

I will check these out.

 

I need to buy the car first but want to research now.  

 

RB 20's are liked in the states.   But I keep reading that RB25's are better for the 32.

 

 

  • Haha 1
12 hours ago, Matty George said:

Just need to upgrade hot side for GTR and ECU upgrade. Simple. Won’t get 500 but will be fun enough.

Not too hard I guess.  Do you mean to upgrade the exhaust?  As long as it will perform well.

If your in 'merica, drop a crate LS in the R32 GTST.

Or at least a RB25.

Personally, the only money I would spend on a RB20 would be to service it.

If you want fast, the RB20 is a poor starting point.

Unless you want original, then, just service it and don't race anything faster than a Toyota Yaris.

If you don't use a crate LS, send one to me, thanks....

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...