Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 11/11/2021 at 3:04 PM, r32-25t said:

You don’t need oil restrictors in garret turbos 

and the power figures and etc I quoted are from experience and not from reading stuff on the internet 

There is a built in restrictor on the GT2860/GT2859, but there's some asterisks there. If you run more oil pressure than stock, if you change the feed lines for some reason to a larger diameter, variables like that can require you to run an additional restrictor.

On 09/11/2021 at 1:48 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Buying these cars requires a type of mindset, at times I think buying any JDM requires some form of slight mental retardation.

I'll use myself as an example, buys a $5k R33, spends over $70k on it (I have a full spreadsheet of every part/machining/fab work that has been done/bought for the car. That list does not include anything maintenance related and the endless workshop hours, dyno hire, etc.) over the past 9.5 years.

There are days I regret it and wish I bought a M3, there are days I marvel at the beauty of the heap of shit.

Lol so true

I hear some of you say its a no brainer going single turbo but my reason for upgrading the twins is because its cheaper, easier to do (?) and because it looks stock and therefore I wont have any problems at the MOT wich is very strict here.

On the other hand it would probably be better going single because of better power, sound and less problems overall with heat ect..

If I were to go single, what is the best turbo kit for r34 gtr out there? 

Personal opinion but I think the days of putting singles on GTRs is over for most people. They have clearly become a classic/collector's car rather than something where you are looking for a very fast daily driver (plus, most of the GTRs with singles live in a garage on stands anyway). 

A set of old fashioned -7 or -9 twins and keeping the standard intake piping as mush as possible is they appropriate way these days. 

  • Like 3
  • Sad 1
On 11/15/2021 at 9:00 AM, GTSBoy said:

I find it hard to believe that there are GTRs out there with the standard turbos still on. I cannot imagine how anyone could have put up with them for this long.

Agreed!  Its also the risk of the ceramic wheels that drive the need to change

On 15/11/21 at 3:51 AM, The Skyline Guy said:

I hear some of you say its a no brainer going single turbo but my reason for upgrading the twins is because its cheaper, easier to do (?) and because it looks stock and therefore I wont have any problems at the MOT wich is very strict here.

On the other hand it would probably be better going single because of better power, sound and less problems overall with heat ect..

If I were to go single, what is the best turbo kit for r34 gtr out there? 

Either precision 6466 T4 .84/1.00, gtx3582 gen 2 .83 or g35-900 .83. Still a decent size turbo with good response and make power. These are the kits below come with everything you need to do a swap

https://www.golebysparts.com.au/collections/rb20-25-26/products/turbo-kit-nissan-rb20-25-26-garrett-g35-900-1050-6boost-manifold-turbosmart-50mm-gen-v-wastegate?variant=39564236914875
 

 

https://www.golebysparts.com.au/collections/rb20-25-26/products/turbo-kit-rb30-garrett-gtx3582r-gen-2-ball-bearing-6boost-turbo-manifold-turbosmart-50mm-genv-wastegate?variant=15660088950893

 

https://www.golebysparts.com.au/collections/rb20-25-26/products/turbo-kit-rb20-rb25-rb26-precision-6466-gen2-6boost-turbo-manifold-turbosmart-50mm-genv-wastegate?variant=31400803270765

On 15/11/2021 at 10:00 AM, GTSBoy said:

I find it hard to believe that there are GTRs out there with the standard turbos still on. I cannot imagine how anyone could have put up with them for this long.

I still have them :) standard ECU standard engine (restrictor removed from the bleed valve thingy). I even run (barely) Yellow Jackets :D

On 11/15/2021 at 11:07 PM, GTSBoy said:

Yeah, well, I should avoid chucking stones inside my glass house. Standard turbo still on my Neo, for example. But it's not quite the same level of suck.

Actually, it probably is. But it's not a GTR. A GTR deserve a lot more turbo.

I think it's the other way around. The Neo is a better motor, and the turbos that come on stock way way way way way way way too small. It's not as though the Neo has a 270kw turbo setup on there from the factory like the 26 does 😛

On 11/11/2021 at 11:28 PM, r32-25t said:

-7s are the r34 n1 turbos (and the nismo r1) they are direct bolt on and will make 500hp at the wheels with e85 and cams 

-9s are the same as hks gtss turbos are will bolt also bolt directly on and make the same power as the -7 (some believe with slightly better response)

the -5 is slightly smaller then the hks 2530 and are a lot more laggy then the -7/-9s, they require different oil drains that are easily sourced which then makes them a bolt on turbo and can make more like 600hp at the wheels if the rest of the set up is done right  

So the -7 is the same as the original r34 gtr turbos just with bigger upgraded turbine wheels and ball bearing? Does that mean I can re-use the oil and water lines/hoses and banjo bolts?

On 16/11/21 at 6:19 AM, The Skyline Guy said:

So the -7 is the same as the original r34 gtr turbos just with bigger upgraded turbine wheels and ball bearing? Does that mean I can re-use the oil and water lines/hoses and banjo bolts?

Yes they all bolt straight over 

On 15/11/2021 at 11:04 PM, niZmO_Man said:

I still have them :) standard ECU standard engine (restrictor removed from the bleed valve thingy). I even run (barely) Yellow Jackets :D

wallah you want a Nistune? pull out your ECU and we'll get it done through my trade account :) 

On 11/14/2021 at 3:00 PM, GTSBoy said:

I find it hard to believe that there are GTRs out there with the standard turbos still on. I cannot imagine how anyone could have put up with them for this long.

My R33 had standard turbos when the engine was pulled as a part of the chassis refresh. I didn't trust them though and never drove the car with them.

On 11/15/2021 at 11:19 AM, The Skyline Guy said:

So the -7 is the same as the original r34 gtr turbos just with bigger upgraded turbine wheels and ball bearing? Does that mean I can re-use the oil and water lines/hoses and banjo bolts?

The -7s are R34 N1 turbos, but R34 N1 turbo covers something like 3 distinct part numbers. The -7s I believe correspond to 14411-AA403. If you ask Nismo they believe that the -7 spec turbos have worse transient response if you're aiming for relatively low power, hence why they released the R3 turbo kit recently which is closer to the earlier AA401/AA402 turbos:

image.thumb.png.2e663ac4360add2fa0f602f21cc4f99c.png

https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/nismo_parts/NEW_PARTS/index_2021.html#a22

Their 450 PS claim includes a healthy derate from what the turbos are capable of pushed to the limit, it's also using an engine dyno: 

 

 

On 16/11/2021 at 2:09 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

wallah you want a Nistune? pull out your ECU and we'll get it done through my trade account :) 

I actually have a broken Nistuned ECU. But yes need to Nistune. Also Need to throw on the R34 N1 turbos and oil cooler, then I'll contact you hehe

  • Like 1

Just to be sure before I buy, can someone verify that this is the right -7 that I need: https://www.ebay.com/itm/303055603645

Will 340lph fuel pump work for 500+ crank hp, like this AEM one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/323980413969?epid=1217828034&hash=item4b6ebccc11:g:mH4AAOSwnxxdzcru Will this just mount right in the tank or do I need some different hoses, connections ect?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
    • Dang, those BBS are so nice! 
×
×
  • Create New...