Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heya folks, 

Just got home from a drive and my turbos decided to shit themselves.

I actually had it up on the market but now it looks like that's being put on hold till the issue is fixed. :(

 

The car is in amazing condition and I don't want to do any big single upgrades or anything like that. Since I'm pulling them out may as well put something a little better in there.

 

Any recommendations on some decent twins that aren't going to break the bank?

 

I don't want to have to change the manifold or anything like that so it would have to be something that bolts straight in. 

 

Thanks in advance! 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/483574-twin-turbo-upgrade-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

On 20/04/2022 at 3:11 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

Either rebuild what you have by @hypergear, find a second hand set or 2860-9 upgrade.



 

Exactly. 2nd is quicker to do and might cost a little more, and you will get 20% more whoosh.

You'd be mad to convert a GTR from twins to single these days unless it is for genuine race only use

https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-kit-nissan-rb26-low-mount-iwg-gt2860r-9-xtr000908i.html?ref_cat_id=Turbo-Upgrades-Kits-Petrol-Turbocharger-Kits

 

This what you boys mean by the -9s?

Also, while we're here - since they're blown and the car is sounding like a hilux, does this mean I shouldn't be turning it on at all and tow, or is it ok to not hit boost and drive it to the workshop? 

Edited by Mlads33
On 4/19/2022 at 10:48 PM, Mlads33 said:

https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-kit-nissan-rb26-low-mount-iwg-gt2860r-9-xtr000908i.html?ref_cat_id=Turbo-Upgrades-Kits-Petrol-Turbocharger-Kits

 

This what you boys mean by the -9s?

Also, while we're here - since they're blown and the car is sounding like a hilux, does this mean I shouldn't be turning it on at all and tow, or is it ok to not hit boost and drive it to the workshop? 

I wouldn't allow the engine to turn until you've verified that you haven't gotten a bunch of ceramic bits from the turbine going backwards from exhaust gas reversion. Letting off at high rpm you can see the manifold pressure reach high levels of vacuum.

Edited by joshuaho96

Yes, those. That kit includes the slightly different oil drain fitting you need.

And no, don't run or drive it. Depending what has happened exactly there could be crap all through your oil. Also, it is worth having someone check it out and make sure turbos are the only issue, they don't generally die on their own and there is a chance they can do other damage

On 20/4/2022 at 3:34 PM, Duncan said:

Exactly. 2nd is quicker to do and might cost a little more, and you will get 20% more whoosh.

You'd be mad to convert a GTR from twins to single these days unless it is for genuine race only use

Why?

can always put the shit lag wagon twins back on. 

A weekend in the garage and it’s “as it was as Nissan intended” or some other dribble that GTR guys love to froth over. 

As Brett said, -7’s/-9’s or if you want a bit more poke a set of -5’s. The as it’s been for the last 20 years.

  • Haha 1

It's not 2010 anymore mate, the world has moved on. An R series GTR is no longer for making big power out of, breaking parts that can no longer being replaced, leaving in the garage for years, then repeat.

It is for keeping standard as possible, putting genuine nismo accessories and maybe some period rays wheels on, and shipping to the US when you win GTR lotto.

People don't have to like change but it happens anyway. Ask anyone who wanted to own a GT Falcon or even a Torana in the last 20 years.

  • Like 2

Since the turbos are coming off, might as well pull out the motor for ease and at the same time add in a head drain/sump breather, Nitto oil pump, extended baffled & gated sump, fresh bearings, ARP stuff top to bottom, Nitto OR Tomei head gasket, all fresh seals.

If money permits, a Samsonas too.

Who the f**k pulls the engine out to change turbos? I can have a set of turbos out of a gtr in about 2hrs,

better ring maatouks, crd, jem and etc and let them know what GTRs are for now because they’re building more then ever and finished examples are fetching huge money 

  • Like 1
On 4/20/2022 at 5:07 PM, r32-25t said:

Who the f**k pulls the engine out to change turbos? I can have a set of turbos out of a gtr in about 2hrs,

better ring maatouks, crd, jem and etc and let them know what GTRs are for now because they’re building more then ever and finished examples are fetching huge money 

A lot of workshops I talk to don't even do intake plenum/collector with the engine in the car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...