Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I got the head unit all installed this weekend:

IMG_1020.thumb.jpeg.a1cad7148bdf4b1f4a9a1e58b027eca7.jpeg

Wireless CarPlay is the goods! I just need to wire up the reversing camera and the reverse input. I tidied

All weekend I have tried calibrating both the fuel level sender (in the IC7) and the vehicle speed (through the ECU), with no luck. The vehicle speed issue means I can’t test out the cruise control…

  • Like 4
13 minutes ago, Looney_Head said:

heads up for the cert, when i did mine, i had to have two loops due to how and where the center hanger was.

 

great work on the car, looking and sounding good. and solid power :)

Thanks! 

Funny that. My cert guy was the one who said I needed 1… let’s see what happens.

  • Like 1

If he said you only need 1, you should be OK. But officially it's 2 on a 2 piece driveshaft.

There was some talk they were going to relax the rule a bit. Maybe it's starting to happen.

I certed my 30 conversion before the hoop rules came in, but want to do brakes which will trigger a re-cert. I'm hoping to squeak through

  • Like 1
On 21/05/2023 at 2:22 PM, R3N3 said:

and the vehicle speed (through the ECU), with no luck

Try this setting, the out of the box Haltech value is much higher and reads weird

image.thumb.png.f099d77d5f81ea69db0e57635390ab3e.png

 

Also if you're running the latest version of the firmware, there's a known bug with VSS doing a few thousand km/h lol

image.thumb.png.5e5425ae0573b6e5ac6301f3008aed4b.png

1 minute ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Try this setting, the out of the box Haltech value is much higher and reads weird

image.thumb.png.f099d77d5f81ea69db0e57635390ab3e.png

 

Also if you're running the latest version of the firmware, there's a known bug with VSS doing a few thousand km/h lol

image.thumb.png.5e5425ae0573b6e5ac6301f3008aed4b.png

Yes, I did have the latest firmware, so I think that’s the issue! Also, no more haltech forum?? I joined that FB page too..

the fuel sensor issue on the IC7 also seems to be firmware related. For some reason the software isn’t updating it with the latest firmware…

27 minutes ago, soviet_merlin said:

What the heck? Did they completely axe the forums and all content? Intentionally? This blows my mind. If it was intentional it seems so incredibly misguided I can't even comprehend it.

It appears so!! I solved a lot of problems just searching on there..

On 23/5/2023 at 12:05 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Hopefully easy fix!

And yeah, a bit sad they removed the forum. Facebook is a bit shit, same questions get asked every week.

Fixed the speedo issue. Funnily enough, my settings were around 5221 pulses/km and I think that was calibrated at 30km/hr. Verified the speed with a shitty app that lagged heaps, so probably wrong still haha but at least I’m not doing Mach 2 anymore.

played with the idle a bit, as the tuner had it set at 900. The DBW makes this super easy and super stable! I backed it down to about 750/800rpm and it’s rock solid!

just need to figure out the fuel gauge next!

 

  • Like 2

As part of my cert tomorrow, I had to update the HICAS lock bar, as there is some picky rules re. bars with welds. This is why I bought the PRP bar, it’s billet with no welds..

The bar itself is great but I feel there has been little thought on the actual application. I had to cut 10mm off the thread on the arms to get the toe adjustment anywhere near right. They say they are bringing out new arms for it but who knows Wel hen that’s happening.. I should have gone with a gktech full delete kit.

IMG_1062.thumb.jpeg.4d88231fa8138a339ba59975f6a69377.jpeg

  • Like 1
53 minutes ago, WR33KD said:

You should have just run a non hicas r200 frame and arms and knuckles to suit, way less stress and it’s a way cleaner look under the back

Yeah, I will investigate this.

also, I will be getting a flex fuel sensor, so I will be getting me some of that ethanol you linked! Cheers!

  • Like 2

So the car failed the cert, however on really minor stuff:

  • Exhaust is 1.9 decibels too loud (was 91.9db at 3200rpm and needs to be 90)- im just going to put a restriction in the exhaust to get a pass. i may quit down the exhaust long term, just want to get a good feel for it first..
  • I need to put a cover over the fuel top hat (factory one doesn't fit because of FPG top hat). ill just have to modify the factory one to suit.
  • no airbag diagnostic light on the dash (as i now have the IC-7). i wish the IC-7 had more customisation here with different logos etc. but nope. I have ordered a little airbag logo light that i will install on the dash.

I should have this remedied next week and finally be legally back on the road.

Edited by R3N3
  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
22 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Congrats!

How does it feel on the street?

Really good! The turbo whistle is much louder than I thought it would be. It’s so much rougher than I remember lol. Spending too much time driving the smooth Skoda with heated steering wheel and seats, 360deg camera etc..

I just need to do a road tune to get it 100% perfect

  • Like 1
20 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I totally get this, with the MK2 Tiguan.

Get into the R33 and it feels like a croc of shit.

Best thing is the wireless CarPlay head unit! I just need to get an amp and speakers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...