Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Standard GTRs are boring and there plenty of them, do what ever you want to it and just remember nothing about them is cheap anymore and if you’re picky about how you want things done it gets even worse. 
 

if it’s an n1 or something very limited then maybe care more about it’s heritage 

Buy someone else's modified car. It'll be risky - but so is modifying it yourself.

People with Modified cars are often ready to sell. Find a nice sorted one, pocket the difference.

  • Like 1
On 12/23/2024 at 12:05 PM, GTSBoy said:

It will blow out fast.

$3k for turbo, could easily be a bit more.

$2k for manifold, at the lower end, and therefore likely to be more.

$1k for dump, could easily be more.

$1k for coating these things, really should be done.

$1k for desirable extras, like EGT ports, EMP ports, heat shielding. Hell, probably more like $2k.

You get close to $10k just for the main parts, without pipework fab, gaskets, fasteners, labour.

$15k is rock bottom. If you need intercooler, fuel system, clutch, ECU, you're pushing $30k. It is just too easy to spend money.

Sheesh, isn't that the price of a full engine rebuild almost?

1 hour ago, silviaz said:

Sheesh, isn't that the price of a full engine rebuild almost?

It’s almost the price of an engine build, you won’t have anything to bolt onto it though 

  • Like 1

It is possible to do this stuff for "cheap". But you need to be able to get deals on all the bigger items, and it really helps if you're fully capable of doing your own work.

As soon as you're paying retail for new parts, or buying "kits" because you can't fabricate necessary bits and pieces, and if you really need someone else to take the reins of doing the work because you don't have the space/time/skills/confidence to  rip deep into the car and put it back together in a working fashions.....then you pay. And these days, pay means a lot of money. You'd think things would get cheaper, but they don't. They just seem to keep getting more and more expensive.

  • Like 1
20 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

FWIW a lot of the local owners that do a medium to big builds tend to have cars that are perpetually broken. 

Common theme, also FYP

  • Haha 1

If you've got bucket loads of $. Go single. If not, just upgrade the twins, Garrett -9's or whatever the current equivalent is for a healthy 350awkw and leave it at that. Will probably still cost you 10k to do in this day and age.

Late to this party but here is your go to shop in perth - https://www.facebook.com/gsautoworksau

GTSBOY is on the money cost wise, drive in and out will cost you 15-30k or more. 

 

Some items that will save you money 

- plug in link ecu g4x is much cheaper than haltech.  

-Pulsar turbo, seem to be "OK" now, never used one myself

You really don't have to build the motor, E85, headgasket, studs and a good RB26 will live for ever. 

 

Swapping over the twins won't save much as you still need ecu, tune, fuel system etc.

 

 

 

 

 

2 hours ago, admS15 said:

If you've got bucket loads of $. Go single. If not, just upgrade the twins, Garrett -9's or whatever the current equivalent is for a healthy 350awkw and leave it at that. Will probably still cost you 10k to do in this day and age.

-9s are discontinued supposedly. But you can still get Nismo R3 turbos which are something like a -7 but subtly different? -7s are also available. HKS GTIII-SS and GTIII-2530 are also available but they're journal bearing MHI turbos.

Depending on conversion rates and when you factor in Australian David Jones pricing on fabrication these days, this kit (bolt on affair, zero fab) nearly seems worth every dollar.

https://www.spectrummotorsportssolutions.com/products/copy-of-gt-r-rb26-single-turbocharger-kit

Their disclaimer:

**Please note - While this kit includes everything needed to convert to Single Turbo without additional Fabrication, Professional installation is suggested. The PS reservoir will need to be moved from the stock location, however everything else fits R32/33/34 GTR w/ OEM AC and Power Steering Pump**.

1 minute ago, MBS206 said:

And I'd be astonished if a bolt on kit truly were bolt straight on, hence I bet the recommendation for a pro to install it.

The quality of car enthusiasts these days, need I say more?

  • 2 weeks later...
On 26/12/2024 at 10:32 AM, thejacksta88 said:

So guys I'm thinking I'll go 

6boost manifold

gt35-900 

50mm waste gate 

full exhaust 

Haltech platinum pro 

Walbro 255

do I need to upgrade coil packs and would anyone suggest drop in cams  ?

The rule of thumb for any GTR thats doing a single turbo conversion is..... seqy... and when i say seqy, i dont mean the pos PPG either. *flamesuit on*

  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That R31 was so cool. Only did Orange Park once. Scared the hell out of me.
    • Selling my TE37SLs since I've switched to smaller wheels.  They're for sale in Japan but it's pretty simple to send them overseas; USA excluded, since JPPost isn't sending there at the moment. Specs Front: 18x9.5j +22 5x114 Rear: 18x10j +20 5x114 Price: 320,000 JPY/ 3,285 AUD (current FX rate) Condition: a few scratches here and there, no bends, distortions or cracks.  Tires will not be included for international buyers, I'll get them dismounted before shipping. They're currently listed on yahoo auction and will be shipped in Japan with the tires if they sell here. Shipping costs to Aus: EMS (1-2 weeks): AUD 1,175 (current FX rate) Sea (2 months): AUD 460  (current FX rate)
    • The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
×
×
  • Create New...