Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There is some info on the EFRs on this thread, might help .                 "Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0"

From what I have seen the 8374 should liven it up a 1000rpm ish earlier , looks like it really gets going @ 4000 RPM now :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Updated dyno from yesterday's tuning session. Increased timing from factory Haltech up 3-4 deg. Also increased boost from 17-18 up to a pretty solid 20 psi. BIG changes in HP. This 8374 LIKES THE BOOST. So the car is up about 50 whp over last time at the drags so it should be 10 sec pass on street tires and pump gas this time around. Also they just finished two E85 stations around my house so get ready for REAL power soon!

Getting FUN! Here's comparison to last time at the dyno. Also on this dyno a stock C7 Z06 put down 571 HP/576 TQ so with 14% drivetrain loss it's right at factory claimed 650/650 for comparison purposes (for whatever that matters).

Build is 2.75L BC Stroker crank on stock bores
Tomei Poncam A set 0-0
ported head
BC SS valves
Hypertune V2
CP valve-relieved pistons
BW 8374 IWG .92 turbo
6 Boost Divided T4 manifold
 

 

 

 

dyno MH first v last top HP change.jpg

dyno MH first v last torque dip change.jpg

New dyno MH vs old dyno Hoyt.JPG

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
8 minutes ago, ido09s said:

Have you had a chance to race this yet?

keen to hear what mph it runs ;)

134MPH.... didnt stack up to power.... could be due to:

- Not having the boost it was tuned at on the night - should have had 31psi but it was running 29psi

- Me taking it easy during gear shifts due to standard box

Will go back eventually.... blew the box 2 weeks ago so might wait until I have something stronger.

Edited by usmair
31 minutes ago, usmair said:

134MPH.... didnt stack up to power.... could be due to:

- Not having the boost it was tuned at on the night - should have had 31psi but it was running 29psi

- Me taking it easy during gear shifts due to standard box

Will go back eventually.... blew the box 2 weeks ago so might wait until I have something stronger.

 

All dynos are different mate, even wheels/tyres will make a decent difference. I don't think its too far off the mark though. Our car makes 485rwkw at 23psi and runs 138mph. Unigroup is known to have a bit of a tough dyno though.

Its still decent mph that your car runs. I wouldn't be too concerned about it. Get the box done and race it :)

Edited by ido09s
  • Like 2
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
On Monday, June 20, 2016 at 7:07 PM, .R33. said:
On Wednesday, May 04, 2016 at 5:03 PM, .R33. said:

Hi all just got my R33 GT-R le mans tuned.

Unopened r33 rb26 done just under 100,000 (whether it is legit or not lol)

Mods:

r34 n1 turbos

Ported stock manifolds

Split dump pipes

Xforce front pipes

100cel cat 3"

3.5" cat back

Apexi pods

Trust fmic

Hks evc-5

Link g4+ ecu (no afm's)

Siemens 660cc injectors

Nismo fuel reg

Walbro 255

OS Giken twin plat clutch

Probably more i missed.

Made 300hp on 14psi

365hp on 20psi

Was hoping for abit more after seeing some of the results here, but tuner said to do cams/gears/springs and should get near the 400hp mark.

Added a set of tomei adjustablecam gears. Car now makes 385hp atw 18psi on 98 :) dropped 2psi and gained an extra 20hp...

Impressive gain, wish i did it sooner!

 

Got the gtr flex fuel tuned.

Added a set of splitfire coils, 3.5 inch decat(4inch body), 1000cc injectors, walbro 460 pump hardwired 14v, modified twin turbo plate (divider welded in) ethanol content sensor.

437.7hp @20psi on e85

20170223_173749.jpg

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, ActionDan said:

You happy with the response given they are N1s?

 

Yes pretty happy, feels like they come on full boost quicker than the dyno paper says. Only driven it twice sine i picked her up and havent really looked at rpm and boost. 

On ‎23‎/‎02‎/‎2017 at 6:27 PM, .R33. said:

 

Got the gtr flex fuel tuned.

Added a set of splitfire coils, 3.5 inch decat(4inch body), 1000cc injectors, walbro 460 pump hardwired 14v, modified twin turbo plate (divider welded in) ethanol content sensor.

437.7hp @20psi on e85

20170223_173749.jpg

seriously look @ cam gears, should be getting full boost quite a bit before you currently are...

perhaps also consider different dumps if they are the short splits...down the track...

On 01/03/2017 at 1:51 PM, mr_rbman said:

seriously look @ cam gears, should be getting full boost quite a bit before you currently are...

perhaps also consider different dumps if they are the short splits...down the track...

Tomei Cam gears were put on last year. The dumps are the short split type, when i change turbos to -9's or -5's i will eother go bellmputh or the longer split dumps with matching front pipe. When should i be seeing full boost by? Cheers

On ‎4‎/‎03‎/‎2017 at 5:47 PM, .R33. said:

Tomei Cam gears were put on last year. The dumps are the short split type, when i change turbos to -9's or -5's i will eother go bellmputh or the longer split dumps with matching front pipe. When should i be seeing full boost by? Cheers

Daniel, I would expect -7's to see fullboost (18-20psi) by 4000RPM, give or take a couple hundred RPM...

If you have cam gears already see what they are adjusted to...

On 23/02/2017 at 5:57 PM, .R33. said:

 

Got the gtr flex fuel tuned.

Added a set of splitfire coils, 3.5 inch decat(4inch body), 1000cc injectors, walbro 460 pump hardwired 14v, modified twin turbo plate (divider welded in) ethanol content sensor.

437.7hp @20psi on e85

20170223_173749.jpg

https://www.youtube.com/shared?ci=xD3jOhM_COY

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Here is my results 

R33 GTR

stock head apart from arp head studs n tomei type b valve springs n retainers 

gtw3884r 62mm 1.00 ts

6boost ts t4 mani 

turbosmart 60mm gate 

3.5" tbe 

100mm fmic

bosch 1000cc 

walbro 460

turbosmart v2 1200

458rwkw @ 28psiIMG_1980.thumb.PNG.edaf5f020a696b09376daa25332cb3d6.PNG

 

 

 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...