Rusty Nuts

From what I recall, This was developed by a couple of companies in the Fuji Heavy Industries Group. Its a refinement of shot peening, using smaller projectiles(media) at much higher speeds. Its been around for years and highly regarded particularly in Trumpland. Only ever heard one naysayer, who said " but its a sacrificial process" Where its more like a microscopic forging and heat treatment, with rapid heat rise and cool at the impact points.

Or is the rotation in the correct direction. Do you have a mixed set, note below, the gtr33 and KA auto rotate in opposite direction to the others. Just a thought. GTSBoy knows more than I, about this subject.

Ah sorry mate, the ebay one I quoted is the one I used. It IS the same as the aliexpress one, so all good.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AUTOPA-Gas-Bonnet-Strut-for-Mercedes-W221-C216-S350-S450-S500-S63-A2218800329/254807343124?hash=item3b53b38014:g:5fMAAOSwBYteZbCj&frcectupt=true here's the link on ebay for the struts, in stock in Sydney. If you need any strange brackets or ends. Here's the link to a strange brackets or ends seller also local. https://www.gasstrutaustralia.com.au/

HaHa. For $200k I could afford to hire enough blokes to search my workshop for the bag of missing caps, and I can still buy complete wheel sets with caps and tyres for $400 locally, so not really a rare item.

Hey Greg looks like one of those metrinch sockets might work.

Looking for four hubcaps for stock wheels

just check gumtree www.gumtree.com.au/s-parts-accessories/r33+airbox/k0c18323

SIKAFLEX 221 black sealant, available from Bunnings. Use that simple logic, only seal those you will never need to remove. I don't seal the boot plugs.

Why not its smaller isn't it. I just went to the local tool shop and bought a thin wall deep socket $9.

Mate, That photo looks like an alien taking a shit

Check the price of the last one sold, then double it for COVID tax.

The UJ's are staked not circlip, how you gonna do it?

Heres a workshop manual PDF. sections EN 57 onwards its pretty clear R33-engine-manual.pdf

You are not kidding I thought you were much taller from your posts.

I brought a container of Yamaha Golf Cars in through Sydney, all the certificates correct and including a video of the cars being steam cleaned- Body off chassis. They inspected every nook and cranny and demanded a rewash, I played the game, smiled and paid, Ya can't fight city hall mate.

Get the S2 Headlights, Rebar, centre grille,Bumper bar,all other lights you will need all of them, just get a S1 bonnet.

Ah thats not full "dodge", Ya Gotta WELD that bastard on. Dry ice bags around the outer ring to stop the rubber delaminating and BADA BING, fixed full dodge. future Ben.

The reason I said check the oil pump is because; Your harmonic damper by definition is present to REDUCE vibration, yours has for some unknown period of time been ADDING vibration. RB oil pump drives have so much clearance new from the factory, they fail from limiter bashing and for careful drivers much later just because. Think about how much vibration bashing a hardened key almost in half caused. But I'm the President of the Do It Once Do It Right Brigade. If you are feeling too lazy, then you shouldn't be playing First Grade ,Bro

Unfortunately that keyway is munted, it needs to be welded and re-cut thats the only true fix. That remnant of a key must have been causing timing issues. I would also pull the oil pump and check for damage.

Check the oil pressure sender, sounds like it has failed. Check for faults individually they are not always related.

Mate, check out Kinkstah"s thread on this forum He went LS with a T56 into a 34 so could be some useful info. Mistakes were made, my R34 Story By Kinkstaah, February 25 in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

https://www.boostcruising.com/advice/404393-VS-UTE-Engine-Conversion-TO-Rb25det.html you will find some good info such as the following paragraph fitting a rb20det into a vp for the simple fact i had a ute with no motor and rb20det sitting there. use the vl crossmember with one vl engine mount and one skyline mount. fit the commodore crossmember to the nissan box and elongate the holes and it will fit. does require custom tailshaft. use a vl powersteering pump and vl power steering lines. one of the supports from the engine to the bottum of the gearbox needs modding to clear the steering rack. rad hoses are also hard as the commodore has narrower engine bay so standard skyline ones hit but you can just use a vl radiator.im currently fabricating allow hoses so i can run them where i want. i also am using the commodore alternator so all the existing wiring plugs back in. doing the clutch gear is the hardest. is yours auto or manual and whats its gonna be. my issue is that my vp was manual with a cable that pulls and the box is hydraulic with a slave that pushes which means modding the pedal box to accept a hydraulic push type setup and you are restricted badly by room issues.then just simpler things like fuel pumps but commodore pump will handle a stock rb engine. then theres FMIC and piping which is not the easiest and ive also put a engine oil cooler in the front with braided lines and its all a bery tight fit. all in all its not as easy as i thought but is doable.

Ford 410 cubic inch is a big block motor, they are huge, way bigger than any aussie v8. If you want to do the swap, Follow your dream mate, and all power too you. At least the VS RB25det swap has been done and plenty of info out there.

You just have not looked very hard. (Jesus, I say that a lot ) I googled Ford V8 in Skyline there are many examples. Even a R34 that has a 410 cu Ford. Seek and you will find mate. If a 410 fits in a 34 then yes a 304 will fit. But as GTSBoy would say" WHY" LS3 bigger, better and mucho information on how to do it.