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niZmO_Man

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Everything posted by niZmO_Man

  1. If you're buying new and are in Australia, get MCA Blue.
  2. Happy to swap lol. My husky would love it as well.
  3. Nismo meter... Also the engine bay looks like it experienced something... messy. Seats and body look good though!
  4. As far as I know, R33 and R32 are different.
  5. NIce buy. I'd look at sourcing the series 3 headlights (factory xenon) or doing a retrofit. That PnP kit isn't doing you any good.
  6. Not sure if the GT-FOUR versions are turbo, but if they are, just stick with the standard RB25DET. As mentioned before, if you already have an RB26 and you blow your motor, then do a swap. You'd want a turbo R34 as they have bigger brakes etc. Or do whatever, it's your money
  7. It stop the system from trying to use the rear steering. It stopped my car from trying to kill me (would randomly 'kick' and sway). Another thing I experienced, when my alternator was dying, low voltage caused the HICAS computer to keep "restarting" and would 'kick' the steering violently.
  8. I read somewhere (I can't remember where), someone said it was a shame and it did nothing, I had a chuckle. But yeah thanks for the reply. I know DBA did R33 (one piece) rotors without drilling the stud holes but it was a very limited run (some R31 people grabbed them and drilled 4x114.3 for the R33 4pot front brake conversion). I might even take some measurements (if I remember, and if I find my veniers) of my GReddy brakes.
  9. For my sake I hope it doesn't lol. I need a few years saving up to tidy up the bodywork... then sell it to an American
  10. That's a very big point you left out LOL For some reason, it's double in Sydney. And I used to complain when CTP hit $500. I'm pretty sure I was paying $300-odd when I first got the GT-R. I'll dig through some paperwork and make a graph.
  11. This is an interesting point. You'd think Nissan spent a great deal of effort on engineering something reliable, but I guess something went slightly wrong with the crank. Even after 20 years, Nitto found that sticking with Nissan's final design choice was the 'best'. I guess all those Group C experiences didn't go to waste BTW, what about Reimax gears vs. Nitto pump?
  12. Worn steering rack bushes are fun. BTW I completely missed the bit where OP said it wasn't stable. HICAS for sure lol. Get into the boot, on the driver's side there's a small computer, unplug the smaller of the two plugs.
  13. Hi, start by searching for things like "bad idle" "iac" "revs drop". Lots of information available so you can troubleshoot your issue. Fix 1 before tackling 2
  14. RBs are rubbish, drop in a V8.
  15. Keep the R33 and turn it into a beast.
  16. Haha well put. I've been lucky with mine, only minor issues (coilpacks, AFMs) but the engine is standard. Spent a little bit of money on suspension and brakes, so it's a "budget" ownership for me. Unfortunately, if I checked the underside I wouldn't have bought it. Double edged sword. I wonder how long before some of the "new" owners get over the "trend" and prices start coming down?
  17. Does Kangaroo Paw™ actually work? I kid On a more serious note regarding two-piece rotors, can DBA make some with non-DBA mount holes? E.g. for Grex/Trust hats. Or is it more economical to just buy DBA rotors that match in size?
  18. How so (I'm interested)? I think their rego is cheaper than ours as well.
  19. My Subaru handbook says every 12,500km lol.
  20. Rip that suspension out and put in some MCA blues. I bet those Bilsteins aren't valved for your country roads.
  21. Centre triple gauge looks standard. But yeah, looks like a genuine 12,000km car, so will sell for $100k lol.
  22. In Victoria, TAC premium (I guess their equivalent of CTP) in a 'high risk zone' is $251. GET STUFFED NSW I will vote for whoever that will reform this extortion-like setup.
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