Dose Pipe Sutututu

Ask and you shall receive Base Table Compensation Table aka E85 table

R33 hydraulic lifters R34 solid lifters, shim over bucket. Also VCT sprocket is different, only semi exchangeable item is the CAS. Applies to 1997/98 GTS-t only.

If you're on this forum long enough the haters will come out with Haltech box jokes and how they've heard/seen motors turn backwards etc. I tune them, I install them into customer cars and have had zero issues.

At the moment none, but I do have the correct heatsinks for them sitting on a shelf, just need a way to fit it all nicely (which hasn't been done, heatsinks were bought as an after thought). Funny enough, they don't get too hot. WIP photo (old) but you get the idea.

Get a Nistune, install the R35 card MAF post intercooler, dose/BOV whoosh all day. That's the "cheapest" solution. Other than that, Link, Haltech P/P, Haltech Elite, MoTec M150, Syvecs, Emtron, etc. My personal choice would be a Haltech Elite, but they rest of SAU hates it.

Great info guys - I might buy a moderately cheap oscilloscope to actually see what's happening. Great if someone wants to donate me a lab grade one I used at uni (I did a whole semester of introduction to electrical engineering for fun as an elective, I was the only student from IT) lol The car has gone through 3x tanks of fuel so far, and the SSRs haven't died yet - but let's see, if they do then I'll fast track the mosfet idea.

Might have to go back to the drawing board now with what you guys have mentioned Thought I was being smart by not staging pumps (Not my cup of tea because you get pressure spikes as pumps come online). Not visible on a gauge but definitely visible when you run fuel pressure sensors. From what I gather I should just bin the whole fuel pumps running on PWM and just have them full noise with a massive fuel cooler to manage heat.

Are you insinuating they might arc to death? I did have that suspicion too hence I'm running 2x SSRs, one for each 460L Wallahbro pump. Each of the SSRs are rated at 100amp (max load that is) however I'm assuming each pump would only drain a theoretic max of approx. 20amp at the fuel pressure I intent to run them at.

I've got it set at 100hz though, seems to work well Had it set at 200hz and everything made an odd hum. The Jaycar SSRs are rated at 0.5ms switch time, so apply some maths and that's smack bang at the 500hz you've mentioned. Honestly never looked further than the SSRs, because if modern cars use them to control massive fans and electronic water pumps, then controlling a fuel pump surely should work? *disclaimer, I am no means an engineer, just have an interest about science and excelled at it in high school. I actually work in IT lol.

You'll need 300kW in a Skyline to move unfortunately. These days modern cars are quick! A 250kW R32~34 will lose to a Golf GTI MK7 with just an exhaust, intake, FMIC and a reflash at a set of lights. Where I'm getting at is, 300kW on a NA NEO with a turbo strapped to it won't last, nor will the NA gearbox.

Funny enough in my 20s I said exactly the same thing, now in my mid 30s, I've dropped that mindset after driving a few and also owning one, my perspective has changed. Don't get me wrong, I still have a soft spot for JDMs but if i could turn back time I would just tell myself to go buy a fast, stock, European car. I am speaking from experience, after going through a few JDM cars, from mild to wild (180kW to 400kW+) I can safely say that they were just a total waste of money. You spend more time spannering, fixing them than actually enjoying them.

Just PWM it using 100amp SSRs, because they're high current ones you won't need a heatsink, unless you're running multiple pumps off each SSR. (Assuming you have a capable ECU). The FPCM is garbage, as it's just a BS drop resistor, which is located next to the aerial on R33.

and this is why there are so many cooked/fked up cars in VIC with blown tail lights, broken headlights roaming the streets..! More reason to own a newer car with AEB, because you won't know when a maroon camry is about to slam their brakes, because their brake lights are generally fked!

Nearly sounds like you're quoting me LOL FWIW, 330kW on E85 with a stock motor and only headstuds lasted many years of track abuse. Went to 372kW and it exploded in under 2 years LOL

And my advice is to sell it, buy a GT-t and mod that. Turbo charging a NA is a long, expensive and will produce a shit outcome. Then factor in brakes, diff, gearbox, etc. And you've just burnt more money than what a GT-t is worth, not to mention getting it registered will be great fun.

Clearly you haven't driven a refined performance car. A BMW M4 in stock form will happily do sub 1m10s around Wakefield Park. Throw on some semis and you'll see a sub 7 or even 6. For a GTS-t / GT-t to do those times you need to throw some serious coin at it.

Or with all the money you've burnt on your R34, you could have bought a nice BMW M4.

I like a bit of overkill, also the car will be abused at the track. So I suspect IATs will climb pretty quickly. Where air density matters, cooler is better.

that's awesome! You need on a cashie and powder coating stuff for my shit box R33?

Sell GT, buy GT-t and spend the free time and excess cash on piles of coke and endless weekends with hookers. Or buy a F30 335i

You can relive that dream, just buy mine. I'll tune it before you take ownership Should pump out a good 430kW or more, great for Powercruise

Spray all the pipe work satin black in the engine bay, will look nice

Solid @t_revz without data it's just an opinion

Or a R33 with a built motor, hectic ulleh fuel setup, twin scrolled it's mum turbo setup #willswapforf30335imsport

This type of plumbing is much cheaper and easier than plumbing up the turbo