Dose Pipe Sutututu

Replace reservoir lines, they weep and usually are the source. I replaced mine with aftermarket gates oil hoses. 3/8" and 5/8", if money permits go OEM - I went aftermarket because I ended up fitting a power steering cooler when I did my lines (no more boiling on the track)

Touch cas, re time Loosen a few bolts, retime Marked out cas place in same spot, retime Replaced cas, retime Do anything to cas, retime Running aftermarket ecu? Lock timing and retime And yes, listen to jiffo - he knows more than Nissan

Stock R33 GTR will fit a R32 GTR so will a R33 GTS-t Series 1 and R32 GTS-t

+612 9725 1728 Speak to Henry tell him Johnny referred with the homo purple R33 shit box lol

Possibility he is running AFM(s), so more air "sensored" by the AFM, more fuel is injected - accordingly to the map.. where as a MAP based car will inject as much fuel as required as per the RPM vs. Boost/Vacuum cell.

Wow that's very interesting, however not the first case of it either. Maybe ping Trent at Chequered he might have an idea since he's installed and tuned thousands of PowerFCs where as I've done two LOL

WOW - good stuff mate!

deletes HICAS, more control of your vehicle

OEM handbrake boot - mint, no cracks or poo Aftermarket handbrake boot & gear boot - good condition, no cracks no anything.. black leather with purple stitching.

$200 NPC 400kW Clutch Plate - Barely Used, worn 0.03mm / Will fit any RB $200 Yellow Jacket Coil Packs for RB25DET S1.2/2, Stagea Non-Neo RB25DET (7x coils) - happily held 1.2 bar of boost $10 Alloy BOV Bung/Plug $10 110L/h Fuel Pump that fits in stock position $40 2x Falken Azensis RT615 225/35/17 with around 3mm tread $50 BRAND NEW Braided Oil Feed Line for Stock RB25DET Turbo $40 BRAND NEW OEM Rear Main Seal & Spigot Bush for RB2xDExx motors - 12279-5L310 $200 RB25DET S2 Turbo - no shaft play, exhaust wheel in one piece $20 RB25DET S2 Factory dump pipe & down pipe $20 RB25DET/RB20DET Factory Manifold $50 RB25DET S2 AFM $20 RB25DET S2 Stock Blow Off Valve $20 RB25DET S2 Radiator $10 RB25DET S2 Fan Clutch $50 RB25DET S2 Stock SMIC & Pipes $200 RB25DET S2 ABS Diff - minus ABS sensor $30 RB25DET S2 Stock Anti Roll bars / Sway Bars $20 RB25DET S2 Rubber Intake Pipe $10 RB25DET S2 handbrake boot & gear boot (1x OEM 1x Aftermarket) $10 RB25DET S2 HICAS Rack & Tie Rods $20 SR20DET S15 Radiator Location: Pick Up Canley Vale, NSW 2166 Contacts: PM or Reply Here Will happily trade for beer. Old Ads (Photos etc.): http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/441585-fs-syd-6x-yellow-jackets-r33-gts-t-s152-rb25det-r34-gt-r-rb26dett-wgnc34-s1-rb25det-ignition-coil-packs/ http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/440769-fs-syd-npc-carbotic-clutch-disc-near-new-rb25det-s2-stock-turbo-r33-rb25det-toshi-remapped-ecu-r33-stock-radiator-sway-bars/ http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/433062-fs-syd-r33-gts-t-part-brake-pads-subframe-collars-wheels-gauge-holder-misc/

No .... Duncan, have you tried replacing all the relays? A low voltage could mean the relaying supplying current/power to the ECU is faulty. If not, there's the old - direct power to ECU trick (fused of course, this is what a mate of mine did also).

SAU NSW cruise soon? lol I can hang with the big boys now - because gate.

Also depends how the disc is setup, some clutch shops bend the plate ever so slightly as it's engaging (for normal driving) the entire friction material isn't biting on the flywheel. I had an off the shelf NPC clutch and it drove exactly the same as a JB clutch, either ON or OFF - although the pedal felt like as if it came from a Yaris but the clutch was horrid to drive and you would either bunny hop or chirp tyres taking off a decline no matter how hard to tried not to. Then I brought the car to Western Clutch to replace my clutch (long story - mixture of cbf and time) and it turned out nothing was wrong with the clutch plate and pressure plate - was a mixture of wrong parts installed from the previous owner and when I replaced the clutch I used the same fork, bearing carrier, etc.. Anyhow, Scott modified the plate and pressure plate.. clamp is now at 1.7 tonnes ( from 1.95 tonnes) and the clutch feels like a corolla clutch. Same pedal effort as stock FWD car, and you can easily ride it too.. no stupid bunny hopping or wheel chirping like a tool. What he did to the clutch plate was bend it ever so slightly, so on a light clamp - say taking off the entire friction face did not engage with the fly wheel. Food for thought, could be totally useless for your requirements.

I've got a set of Yellow Jackets for 200$ + post. Even comes with 1x spare. These will happily let you boost up to 1.2bar without misfires

imagine you had VCT.. that turbo & motor combo would be amazing

probably has to do with your oil temp heating up quicker... more advance, more heat in the motor - so your oil thins out quicker as it reaches the correct temp quicker. even with more retard your oil pressure should be the same.. will just take longer to get there when you doodle around the streets.

eh? it's a 2-wire 12V DC fan bro lol Just get a SPAL item off eBay and whack it on the front, and if you're keen use a different thermoswitch so the thermo kicks in earlier

just wrap all four corners in 255/40/17 - allows you to rotate your tyres

If you're going to that much trouble, better off installing a better fan The stock one is a little on the shit side

I still have mine

And? Makes no difference dude. Ignition/Fuel maps don't change by themselves with age lol Can't believe you're selling her!!!!!!! Ferk it's clean, you sure take good care of your car mate! Good luck!

The sensor/switch mounted in the bottom RHS of the radiator is for the thermo fan. If you're bored, unplug it and bridge it with a paper clip

It's just a thermo switch for the front fan. Kicks in about 90 degrees

Or buy the Tridon equivalent. Same as s14/15 as well (if memory serves me correctly)

Just drop a r34 neo rb25det in, cheaper and easier