Jump to content
SAU Community

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Members
  • Posts

    15,520
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    371
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. Plenty of clapped out R33s listed for $30k+ (minus the 1st one, that's not bad): https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/nissan/skyline/r33-series/coupe-bodystyle/?sort=Price There's hope for us autistic R33 GTS-t owners.
  2. @admS15 don't worry brother, Mr @klutched here as started his brain washing exercise with me. I still would prefer someone swap me their M3 LCI for my R33 🥲
  3. Hence the new G40 just makes so much more sense however not to say Precision turbos aren't good - they're king of big power.
  4. @IMACUL8 At a minimum I recommend this: https://www.nzwiring.com/index.php/product/trigger-kit/ The OEM CAS is terrible on big powered cars, you always end up with triggering errors at high RPM. Of course a proper crank/cam triggering kit is best.
  5. It's not 2005, please don't use these pumps. Wallahbro 450L/h pumps are great and quiet too.
  6. haha all good, I have like 30~45 degrees of timing on cruise/vac
  7. I suppose the two best options are (in cost order): Pin the Haltech Elite direct to your OEM harness, i.e. delete the plug & play adaptor & OEM connector New harness, mil-spec dis dat, IG fame.
  8. That's correct, there are a few pins that are not used from the Haltech that are randomly pinned into the plug/play adaptor and there are some pins that supposedly should be in series from one plug to other is actually non existent lol.. I just depinned them and connected it straight onto my own harness (Haltech -> own harness) - less mucking about.
  9. https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-151357-elite-2500-nissan-skyline-r32-33-r34-gt-r/# and download the quickstart then use this to work out what you need, nicely colour coded too:
  10. Yeah mine shouldn't ignite, manifold is coated, have a turbo beanie and also the dump is wrapped. Has survived 2x track days like this without catching on fire. Just binned a motor instead when the cam snapped due to oil starvation. Should be putting it on the dyno soon, just finding time during the week to tune it has been difficult. Work being aids 😭 Might see if I can convince Birrong to open up on a Saturday 🥲
  11. Might be worth getting it and saving it for the future. They're worth big money now.
  12. Time to find an AWD Stagea block, unicorn they reckon. Or 2JZ swap, 500kW at the wheels stock motor on stock studs lol.
  13. Some super pornographic parts there! Exciting 💦
  14. Some billet brace goodness 😂 This is the only billet brace I can afford. Needed a better battery clamp solution as the flimsy clamp from Supercheap wasn't holding the battery in place, especially after cutting off one side of the battery guide on the tray to fit a larger battery.
  15. Yes you can, however your traction control won't work where you are spinning all 4 wheels. You need a GPS sensor to make the traction strategy work with a 4WD car work properly.
  16. Everyone too busy going to get pissed at the pubs and hitting music festivals. My Aussie mates living there doing just that lol.
  17. Feels like it's a box out affair now. Nearly feels like the throw out bearing has been installed backwards (hence the noise you've mentioned). A single disc clutch should not make any rattling noises at all.
  18. Take a photo of your clutch pedal, the pedal limit bolt (can't recall the right name) and the clutch rod going into the master. I feel that the adjustment might be at play here as you're using the factory slave and the correct bearing carrier as supplied by ACS.
  19. Are you using a Nismo slave? If so go get an OEM one. The Nismo slave, although more heavy duty and provides lighter pedal feel actually decreases overall travel. This was what Scott at Western Clutch in St Mary's told me and advised at the time (on my previous shit box) to revert back to OEM when he did my clutch.
  20. Very potato photo, just took it as I was leaving as my mate asked where I was heading in the R33. Left about 8am and took a very extended drive to Meat Emporium to pick up wagyu lololol. Night before pulled out the laptop and set 1bar of boost, 17 degrees of timing mid range and 19 up top. Safe as shit and closed loop O2 to take care of the rest. Gave it many jabs to 8k rpm (limiter is 8500rpm). Must say, it's very linear in terms of power, where as before with smaller cams and the OEM intake manifold/plenum you could feel a big surge of torque coming on. Probably put it on the dyno soon, when I have time. Alex from Birrong has been asking me when I'm bringing it in, I'm sure he's keen too (as the choice of parts isn't what he's used to putting together).
  21. Also are you still running the factory CAS or has that been modified to just only return a home signal? If that's OEM I would swap it out for a NZ Wiring cam trigger kit, 24 -1 setup but you won't have triggering errors like the OEM optical wheel Also brakes wise, look at 355mm 370Z calipers using Z1 Motorsport adaptors. Should be plenty for your car and track work when paired with decent pads.
  22. Jesus that looks fun 😍
×
×
  • Create New...