MBS206

I agree and disagree. If the issue for example is on the pin into the ECU, it could definitely throw a red herring for it. Also I think others suggested checking continuity everywhere... ha ha I've even seen auto sparkys fall victim to it too. A mechanic diagnosed a car of ours as bad fuel pump. New pump in. Same issue. "But there's 12V at the plug and it has continuity too! Turns out the power cable to the fuel pump had 4 hot joints. Not enough to break continuity, and you'll always see the full voltage when you unplug it at the pump and test power. Even at only 10ohms, max current our fuel pump could see was 1.44amps, and that's IF the car was already running at 14.4v Try and crank and max current is <1amp. Very very different to this fuel pump issue, only raise it as a good reason people need to be aware of it. Many I've spoken to think if they have continuity, shit should work. On the flipside, cheap $10 multis on continuity and be beneficial to check my PCBs when I'm soldering them for horrible shorts super quickly. Then I sometimes just go with a smoke test... That reminds me, I should order a few spare cans of electrical smoke to keep on the shelf... Ha ha ha

Guys, STOP using continuity beeps as your test. They'll lead you astray something shocking. For example, high quality Fluke Multimeters state they'll only show continuity if circuit resistance is between 0 and 50ohms. Cheap multimeters I've seen much much higher resistance and still getting continuity beeps. To give you an idea, if you have 40 ohms of resistance on a wire that's either giving power to the relay coil, or taking power from the relay coil to ground, then adding that in with the typical 140ohms of a coil resistance, when you try to activate said relay you'll end up with a roughly 3v drop in the 40ohms, leaving only 9v, and a lack of current at the coil, meaning it may not trigger. Please measure actual resistance not "continuity beeps". your first post, you state you have had this problem since you drained your fuel tank. You also state "you may have crossed some wires" so my question is, how did you actually "possibly cross some wires"? What exactly did you do, and at which plugs, to get the fuel pump to let you drain stuff. I have a small idea of how you could have killed the ECU if it is 100% the issue...

$300 monopoly cash?

I was about to post to ask what roughly prices would be for doing something like this! Going to need one to go from teh T5 Barra box, to the middle flange on an R33 Tail shaft. Probably best to redo all the centre bearings and rear joints etc too on the original back half of the shaft.

Ahhh... The dreaded conversation of "But it needs to be replaced as they don't make the old parts any more, so we need to change them over..."

On a setup where the fuel reg is at the other end of the rail, and hence returning to tank from the engine bay, Apart from at restart, fuel temp at the rail, should be so close to fuel temp at your flex sensor, it would be negligible. Reason being, the amount of fuel flowing past at speed through the main item (fuel rail) that will heat it up, and pulling heat away. By the time you've primed the fuel pump for 3 seconds, and then gone straight to crank, for say another 2 seconds, that fuel is matching pretty much the temp of your flex sensor. The rail may be hotter, but the fuel is barely increasing due to the speed it's going past at. The part where you get "fuel heat soak" is when you don't have enough fuel in the tank, and just keep pumping it past a hot thing really quickly, and it's picking up small amounts of heat more than it can drop off. Our tanks are plastic these days, not great for heat transfer out... Think of it like turning the kitchen tap on and waiting for the cold water to come through in summer. It gets through and rapidly changes from hot, to cold. This does take a while in some houses, as the water that's truly cold, is a LONG way away from your tap. Even if you held an Oxy Acetylene torch to your tap, the amount of water rolling through won't make the outlet temp change much at all. You also need to be careful where you install a temp sensor, and how much you're relying on that temperature. Temperature sensors have a first order response, which means they can't be super quick. Secondly, most I've seen are a metal sensor, in a metal housing. You screw that into a metal item, you're more likely to be measuring the metal temp you screwed into, than the liquid you want to measure. IE metal could be hotter from other factors, or could be getting more cooling and hence reading lower. Even from your data, from 10c to 90c, that's only a 7% variation when on 100% fuel. At startup, I bet you could easily remove 15% fuel from your cranking table and it would still start up, especially when warm. A returnless system obviously does have more heat soak type issues in it, as fuel isn't leaving the rail, except through the engine...

Being that this is a conversion, there could be so many things going on here. You could have a bad pump, wiring issues, it could be how the rail has been plumbed, where the Fuel Pressure Regs are located instead, etc etc. Without detailed explanation, from vehicle, pumps, wiring, how the whole fuel system is as a whole, the engine of choice, etc etc. Pretty hard to diagnose from online. As this has been what you've just been tuning, you could be low on fuel, pump may not be able to properly build pressure etc, could be an internal leak inside the fuel tank, and hence when its hot it might be struggling to push fresh fuel through.

That's a better location for crap, rather than stacked on top of the non functional cars in the garage like some people do!

Just on a note for this Duncan. On the relay coil, your higher voltage should be on 86, your lower voltage (typically ground) should be on 85. It "won't matter" right up until you install a relay that uses a diode instead of a resistor to kill the coils flyback. When it's the wrong way, the diode allows a short circuit from power to earth. Great way to fry electronics / cables or relays and fuses. Good way to remember is high number, to the higher voltage

I've seen the way you drink... You'll drown...

Hey Dose... Time to get to tuning... Preset to 350kPa but we can ramp that bad boy up. Get you some more PSIs and more flows!!!

My Pop used to live there (He's now passed), even Nan wouldn't drink the water, nor would anyone else. My cousin has lived there now for about 24 years. Still won't drink Dubbo water, ha ha ha It has the weirdest flavour! That being said, we've also had times in Brisbane where the smells, and tastes, like dirt. Normally after a flood, and its from extra "totally safe" organic water matter up stream of the water processing plants.

I have a query, but why do you want to hold back the outright capability of the mechanical system? Would it not be better to build a system that is responsive as possible, that meets your upper requirements, and then use electronic measures to control and manage it? That way you're not left with a car that you might want a bit more response from but can't mechanically achieve it. That's my frame of mind on all of this. Would mean you also have a more responsive and driveable car on the freeway etc without needing to drop gears. Power on tap with mid throttle.

You're not meant to drink the bore water, not until you filter it at least but Bore water is typically tastier than the shit that comes out of Dubbo's town water

Going off the fresh grooves, it looks like you're only at half depth, so go for more engagement. It also looks like the tool is rolling too, which will aid the tool in stripping the head, it also means the torque you're isn't being fully transferred to actually undo the bolt. If you're using a ratchet, ditch it. Get a GOOD breaker bar. Ratchets also absorb torque, and aren't designed for huge torque or things like pipes being added to them, or jacks. You'll likely find the ratchet 1/2" drive bit has a bit of play in it, which will possibly be what is allowing the tool bit to end up rolling, rather than purely twisting.

This is my category. Cost, it's the biggest driver. Been cheaper to acquire tools than it has to pay for labour, even if it takes me longer, I enjoy it.

The flow restrictors for taps, are all right at the outlet, unscrew them, slip the weird bit out, screw it back in. But filter is probably smashing flow rate down now more than the tap.

You installed a carburettor to run your kitchen sink?! Are you mad! It'll need tuning each time air temp changes! What if the pressure in the kitchen goes up? Can it handle the heat and pressure with only a screwdriver to tune it?! PS, where'd you get it from, and does it still flow like a normal tap? Is it an RO filter?

Just remember, as you get older, your hearing starts to go. Make sure you fit straight pipes... 😛

Most of them have a system you can turn on to play noise through the speakers for you.... Funnily enough, petrol things like BMW do this from the factory too in "sports mode". People think the exhaust gets louder... But it doesn't... Ha ha ha

Alright, quick update Switch panel is fully mounted. Relay/fuse panel is fully mounted. Wiring to O2 is now run fully. Wiring from relay to headlights is ran. Just need to run the wiring to the switch. Indicator wiring is fully run except from the relay to the fuse (Will attempt to load the video of me quickly testing it...) First time the indicators have flashed properly in 12 years... Power steer from Barra ECU I've found out no need to connect, as it doesn't do any controlling of varying pressure, and I don't need the PS switch feed back for the Barra ECU at all. So far, off the top of my head for wiring to finalise it all. Run cables for the speed sensor. But that involves me also mounting a speed sensor. Gearbox doesn't have one, and I never had ABS, so no speed rings I can use for anything. Likely end up finding an AU Falcon output housing from T5 with the speed sensor and wire that in. Some earth straps and earth points. run a couple of power cables from fuses to relays... I will need to run wiring later for a thermo fan, but I'm waiting to do that for two reasons: 1) I don't know the current draw I'll have exactly, as I don't have the thermo yet, and 2) I don't have new heavy enough gauge cable if I end up with a thermo pulling 20 to 25Amp like a few of the thermo's I'm looking at do for the huge CFM they flow. Will also be adding a horn too, but need to find my horns first. Ha ha Two other things I will be wiring in too, but not just at this exact moment as I'm going to make up a PCB for this, but I'll be setting up wiring for the windows, and wiring for the electric mirrors. Just about ready to move on to running the fuel lines, will need to order them up this week or the one after Indicator Rear.mp4

Mark, as you're keeping the big SS monster, which you can use for longer trips etc, and you're wanting something with the ModCons, and some sporty zip, have you considered an EV? Depending on how many KMs you do a year, from now to the 70 year old Mark, it may work out cheaper to go a new EV. I presently drive the Kona EV, and now in my mid 30s, I prefer driving it in traffic over any car I have access to. To the point, unless I want to go for a spirited drive, I'd rather drive it over even the missus Liberty GT-B, which is a car I quite enjoy. It handles pretty nicely (Especially for a small SUV style car). I guess have a really low center of gravity really helps it. On the rare occasion I actually press the brake pedal, I nearly headbutt the front window. But in general, I use regen braking nearly everywhere. But you want to go quick, just push the quiet pedal, and it gets up and zips off and away! Has all the mod cons of the AC, the cruise, the safety bells and whistles (Some of which I've personally switched off, but they might be good to keep a soon to be 70 year old safe ) Oh, also runs a 500KM range, in winter as I'm smashing both heater and AC, and the fan pretty hard, my range drops to about 400 usable KMs. But in summer, I'm legit getting 500KM range, and that is using AC too. Using the regen braking, and smooth (not slow, just smooth) acceleration really helps. Oh, and at current electricity prices, it's under $3/100km to put electricity in it. If your SS is anything like my VT SS was, you're using around 18L/100km easily around town... At $2/L, the SS would be costing about $36 / 100KM to run... So the EV really does save it. But that being said, you need to spend a bit more to buy it up front due to the batteries (Sort of pre-paying for fuel). Hence my comment on depending how many KMs you do. But realistically, you could drive from Sydney to Goulburn, shove it on the slow charger when you get down there (Normal power point) for 5 hours, and get back to Sydney again and still have 50KM left over. Stop off at a fast charger (I'm expecting Goulburn has one by now) for lunch, and you'd be fully charged and back on the road by the time lunch finishes, so you'd be back in sydney with 200KM of range still available. Park it back in your garage (Or just outside it) on the charger overnight, come back out and you're good to go. Want more freedom than that for a trip down randomly, well, you've still got the dinosaur eating V8 tucked away Note: It may not fit your situation depending how enjoyable you find it to drive, or the number of KMs you do a day, or even how often you want to take the daily on long trips vs the commodore when you hit retirement, but I find being able to sit side by side with most of the "fast kids" in their P Plate cars pretty funny, especially since you don't need to shift gears or worry about the launch, so they actually get pissed off when the EV goes past them Depending on the KMs you do daily, and how many you expect to keep doing daily running around in retirement, a decent EV would be a good daily driver, especially once you hit retirement. (DVA Gold gets you a good discount on electricity doesn't it?)

Nek minnit, Mark is selling the SS for an N spec Hyundai...

My current daily drive has no cat converter. My previous daily driver has no cat converter. Granted, previous one is old school Diesel. Current one is an EV

Not an RB, but our EJ25T has been on the same set of plugs for over 100k KMs... No idea what's in the motor cause screw changing shit on a daily if it's not needed!!!