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Kinkstaah

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Everything posted by Kinkstaah

  1. Kinkstaah
    I personally would prefer wider rears over the wider front, start on that side of the car makes for a better looking car
  2. Kinkstaah
    Just check it's flat before you put it on (i.e, machine it). I had "fun" with mine not being flat, and I had to drill out the holes for the manifold studs to get it to sit on. A few months later I had to replace three broken studs, the whole thing was twisted, and warped 0.5mm at the front and 1mm at the rear. Mine was a T4 TS variant. Check it or get it checked before you put it on (should check any manifold before putting it on really!)
  3. Kinkstaah
    Yeah you'll only save in time. Ultimately unless you are DIY'ing yourself you have to trust someone external to you anyway. Whether thats the seller (who is usually another customer) you're still trusting *a* machine shopt or *a* builder whether you deal with them directly or indirectly. I'd personally prefer a motor that's done ~25,000kms and a few track days/many dyno runs and is still holding together just fine like mineeee... over one freshly built anyway. Reputation tends to matter a lot with these things. In 2018 it's really hard not to argue just ordering a RIPS RB30 bottom end as soon as you buy any R chassis and have it ready to go and it'll be all you need.
  4. Kinkstaah
    lol I'll sell you my 2.8 with VCT for far far far far less than that one on FB. RB26 tax is absurd.
  5. Kinkstaah
    Without changing turbo or intercooler? There is no way.
  6. Kinkstaah
    Well there we go. This is what a 9.5 +27 looks at the front of a 34 with a pulled guard. This is wih a 265 tyre and is about 0.1mm from rubbing on everything on lock. I've lowered it a touch since then, but it's pretty easy to see that there's no way +15mm is going to fit in that guard. I always flirt with re-shelling the car (as opposed to painting). Looks like the R33 GTST got a few more points in that regard Sorry to hijack thread - There's a lot of info on SAU that suggest fitment for R33 GTST and R34 GTT is so identical it's almost "the same", clearly it isn't!
  7. Kinkstaah
    Still doesn't really seem possible, I had a full roll, and pull, and semi-flare to get 18x9.5 +27 at the front. Those wheels are a full 15mm further out than what I have up the front of a 34. And mine sits like this: Guess I'm off to get a R33 then, the geometry isn't as close as people tend to say it is here!
  8. Kinkstaah
    They also seem to be pretty crazy numbers, cause if real then it's time to re-shell into a R33 GTST instead of a R34, especially the front.
  9. Kinkstaah
    Cheers, helps contextualize the times. My eyebrows were raised looking at the times if a AD08R was considered 'semi slick' which sometimes it does get categorized as!
  10. Kinkstaah
    Change your diff settings. Most of the cars have default diff settings of full lock on decel, and partial lock on acceleration. This completely changes how the cars actually drive around, or put on the viscous diff option. The Skylines then drive like Skylines, though I can understand why you'd want locking on decel to overcome understeer on a race car on a road chassis if you're a skilled actual racing driver, I clearly am not
  11. Kinkstaah
    What is considered a "Street Tyre" and "Semi Slick" for the classes there?
  12. Kinkstaah
    +1 for SL Customs. I actually went out there to ask questions about front bumpers and honestly his pricing was pretty damn reasonable for the competency he was showing. Definitely worth a call/chat if you can book in advance.
  13. Kinkstaah
    Obviously this is where actually driven cars crash the party, and security gets involved.
  14. Kinkstaah
    The ARD ones are available and work perfectly, I have the 150A one and my electrical system is much happier now https://www.rhdjapan.com/ard-low-resistance-high-output-alternator-z31-r31-r32-r33-r34-c34-c35-wc34.html https://www.rhdjapan.com/ard-high-output-alternator-110a-z31-r31-r32-r33-r34-c34-c35-wc34.html
  15. Kinkstaah
    Birds, buy a R34 sedan, noone will ever attempt to look at it, let alone steal it. I get wistful happy thoughts every time I park in a carpark somewhere, but alas, no bites.
  16. Kinkstaah
    Strange, I would have thought that plumbing one line directly to the bottom of the gate should be the most spike resistant/basic way to set up the gate especially if looking for low boost, like how most IWG's run. It still makes no sense to me how this can happen by adding the solenoid in the middle of the vacuum hoses, when connecting the hose directly does not have this spike, with the solenoid unplugged, doing literally nothing. Is it an example of the Dunning Kruger effect when you: 1) Try something, then get stuck 2) Ask for help 3) Take that help on board, get the problem sorted 4) Post up results so other people can find it?
  17. Kinkstaah
    Update: Plumbing the lines like this fixed it. Seems that it really didn't like being in the simplest possible method. Bit of playing with PID and start duty afterwards, now right as rain.
  18. Kinkstaah
    Making her budge is easier, and it is BY FAR making it the easiest way make it not a complete slug. Or if you must absolutely have an auto and your partner is literally missing a leg, buy another car. Now that that's safely ignored, you need an ECU to provide proper fuelling for the turbo motor as opposed to the N/A one. 5psi is signifigant difference. You need to control differences in airflow and injectors will behave differently, and you need an ECU to be able to tell the motor what to do, it's not just about preventing detting. I don't know enough about R33 ECU's to know if you can just get a stock turbo auto ECU and plug the fkin thing in, or even better, buying a turbo auto car. Any steps down this path will, 100%, always, unavoidably cost considerably more than what you paid for the current car, OR flat out just buying a turbo auto R33.
  19. Kinkstaah
    more
  20. Kinkstaah
    more
  21. Kinkstaah
    You will have to piggyback something (as above haltech ecu will work) or put in a custom auto transmission ECU (they do exist!). Putting in a manual is better in every aspect though, including labor and yes, teaching someone to drive manual is easier than doing this conversion and a lot less hassle.
  22. Kinkstaah
    Yep, this is running a (genuine) 50mm external gate. I can get the thing to hold boost fine for 20psi, similar to KiwiRS4T posted just above, the problem is I may not want to run 20psi, I may want to run 15psi or 12psi in the fashion that was posted above, or 17 psi etc. Or say pull 5psi boost per gear in 1st, none of which really has much effect if I'm spiking to 20psi semi-controllably. I just found it astounding that the spike happens when the device is plumbed in, even with the solenoid is unplugged. The logic that air has to do a 90deg vs not is the only real difference here but I just can't see that causing this oddity!
  23. Kinkstaah
    Here is a (blurry) picture of it plumbed in. The electrical connector was disconnected further up the chain. When I join the two hoses I've labelled together with a straight barbed connector, I get no more spikes. The BW provided hose to the compressor looked a little kinked, so I replaced it with exactly zero effect.... on either configuration (plumbed into solenoid or past it straight into the gate).
  24. Kinkstaah
    1000000000000000000000000000000000000% It's pretty easy to see, blow air in one side, see where it comes out. Attach hoses inline with that flow, considering it's unplugged and all... did check to see if its leaking using the same scientific test and doesn't appear to be.
  25. Kinkstaah
    Too much power. Stock cars may run it but Skylines sure don't like living that long up there. 12psi is more than enough, 10 is okay but I'd love a little more than that, but really what I want is electronic control to actually hold the line flat instead of it falling off which is what you'd expect from a MBC or just a line to the gate directly. (12psi is 330rwkw) Can't see how removing the plumb back would affect this? The plumb back is a 2inch piece of exhaust that is well over a meter long before it joins with the exhaust again, which would be unused when the gate is shut, I can't see how adding a solenoid in the line would affect it.
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