GTSBoy

Surely there's room to poke a ball end hex key in there?

I would have agreed with Ben, except that the change is recent and it has apparently never had the shroud. If it was the missing shroud, you would expect the problem to have always been there. That would suggest that it is something else that has changed recently. So, back to my earlier list, starting with the others' thermostat recco.

Oh f**k!

Thanks for clearing that up.

Yeah. It was dumb. Is that the sort of answer you're looking for, or some confirmation bias?

So, it is one of a very few things. Thermostat, as advised above. Radiator compromised. Water pump vanes eroded away. Go forth and apply the logical procedure to work out what is wrong.

Just change the plug on the loom to a suitable Deutsch connector. It's not as if you're ever going to want to revert to a standard module.

Ball, like all RB singles. There is no such thing off the shelf. All Garrett, BW, etc turbos are intended to be MASSIVE upgrades on the shitty 1950s technology that defines the stock Hitachi turbo. No turbo that you will find on eBay from the usual scumbags is worth the $400 they want for them. If you want a good "slight upgrade" replacement, then Hypergear's lowest end highflows are the closest sort of thing you can buy. Oh, and there is no problem buying from HG all the way from the US. You do realise that the world is round, right? And it is therefore possible for planes to fly all the way around? It's amazing what they can do with cardboard boxes these days.

Is it cheap? (As in, is it significantly cheaper than D2 etc?) If so, why is it cheap? Those are the questions.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XW8iAVwt_Yc

I think the main thing to remember is that when trying to "butt" join a (large diameter) wire, if someone was to propose splicing it together and then flooding it with solder, then it is bound to fail. Solder is NOT a mechanical joint. It is an electrical joint. It's mechanical properties are far inferior than its electrical properties, and joints that rely solely on solder (such as components on circuit boards, etc) do not have very tough mechanical mounting requirements. Devices that do have tougher mechanical mounting requirements will have twisted tags poking through the board as additional/primary mechanical mount points (or big fat solder pads with the back of the package stuck down, for mech and heatsinking). Big wires get crimped. End of story.

Yuh, the original WOFTAM, multiplied by double.

Sounds like every broke arse Skyline & Silvia owner over here for the last 25 years.

The number is a lot lower than that. Not even getting to 190rwkW without all those things.

You can't. Moving out of California has been declared by the state of California to cause cancer.

Sounds like modifying a GTR in California is just one of those things that you simply should not consider.

As if there's a 40k mile GTSt in existence anywhere in the world!!!!!

Say what now?

RB flywheel, clutch & slave are all interchangeable as long as you stay with push type, not pull type (ie, it will be different stuff if you get an R34 box, which is pull type). You will need to work out what to do with a speedo drive. Depends on what silliness was pulled to make a 20DET box work in your car (which should not be easily compatible). And when you say "front driveshaft", I presume you really just mean "front half of the tailshaft", yeah?

Immobilisers are all the same shit. They are just relays interposed in the ignition and/or starter circuits. The "security" is bypassable by restoring the original wiring. Most of the appearance of "security" is imaginary, in any of these things. The truly secure immobilisers, like the Brandts that were put into WRXs 20 years ago, were secure because the car could never be started, even when you wanted it to, because the immobilisers were shit.

I've had a Viper in my car since I got it (about 21 years). Has not faulted in any way shape or form in that time. Properly installed by someone good at it. I could have done it, but it's better to leave it to a pro if you're not already good at doing it. Get a separate screamer siren installed inside the cabin too. You can't easily work inside my car to defeat the alarm if it's going off because it's >120 dB in there and it hurts.

310mm R34 brakes are a good thing on the street.

Is there a tongue-in-cheek emoji available?

https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480653-closed-r34-wheel-sizes/?tab=comments#comment-7934375

Well, there was definitely something wrong with it!