GTSBoy

Search. Has been posted about much before. Use the term "igniter"

Only worth it for entertainment and disposal of drug earnings.

Yeah, that's pretty bad. The difference in density between ~15°C inlet air you might get on a really cold day (at boost, after the intercooler) and a heat soaked maybe 100°C situation is very large. Like 30%! At least it will result in your mixtures going super fat (assuming it was tuned at low temperatures), which is on the safe side. But if it was tuned on the dyno and the air was quite warm at the time, you could be exposed to going lean when you run it in cold conditions. But the main thing is that the ECU would want to be pulling quite a bit of timing out of it in response to the hot IATs, and without a sensor, it just can't. In this case again, E85 is going to be part of your safety blanket. The rich(er, at higher IATs) mixtures also.

How is load sensed? Using an AFM, or MAP? If MAP, can you log the IAT (because it must have one!)?

It's an impossible question to answer. If you open the scope up to all engines and fuel types, the range of acceptable air temps is really wide. If you restrict yourself to just talking about RB25DETs, it's probably still too wide a range to be helpful. It will really depend on the state of tune of the engine and how close it is to wanting to ping. A relaxed tune will obviously accept just that bit more temperature than one that doesn't have any spare ignition timing lying around. In your case, E85 is probably the really big factor though. It has such massive cooling power that, so long as you're not tuned to the ragged edge, it will probably allow you to completely heat soak the intercooler. Now, 16 psi is over a bar and if you compress air to a bar with only ~75% efficiency you can easily get >>100°C. So we'll assume that your hot air temp is well north of 100°. The intercooler will still take some of that temperature away even once it is soaked, but I'd be willing to bet you could run around 90°C post that cooler. The E85 should be able to cover you for that. If you were paranoid, you could look to add a little bit more fuel into the maps around your "drifting" load points to help that. If it were me, wanting to stick with the return flow and the compromises inherent in that, and worried about heat soak, I'd look at a water spray for the cooler. Use a Bosch windscreen washer pump, a fine atomising nozzle or two and a reservior with a few litres capacity, and you should be fine for quite a few laps of drifting with a bunch of extra safety added. But......if I had to pick a number that I wouldn't want to be thrashing an engine at.....then maybe 60°C. Something like that.

4 out of 240 is well within the range of 6 tests in the same spot. These ball drop hardness testers are only so precise.

Yes, the ECCS relay is a little differently wired between 20 and 25, so it could easily be there.

But note what I've said above. It's a bit like measuring the colour change and trying to infer a strength change. Not necessarily related, not necessarily related with a positive or negative coefficient. Just not the right measure of the change that you're looking for.

A wreckers.

Take to workshop, connect scan tool to Consult port, read codes from ATTESA CU, fix problem. Problem likely to be a wheel speed sensor, which was maybe molested during wheel removal/refit.

Might be a common mod, but it's not real good mechanically. A layer of adhesive vinyl (ie, clear contact) might be OK, because at least you're not adding something compressible into the connection. I certainly wouldn't want to put a disc of clear plastic with what looks like a 1.5mm thickness under the bolt head alone as a washer. That is not clever engineering practice.

RB30 blocks are weaker up the top because they are taller up there without any real additional bracing. The cylinder walls on RBs are not all that thick, the block deck is not all that thick. It's really just a fairly light casting in that area and its surprising that they do as well as they do. It's not surprising that they split when you push them too far. RB26 blocks are broadly the same as 25 blocks in that area. Not as good as JZ blocks though.

I think it is fair to say that cryo treatement is not about hardness. It is, at the minimum, about toughness, which is an engineering term. I don't know if it is as useful on cast iron as it is on steels though. And there is much more anecdotal evidence that it toughens things like transmission input shafts and the like (ie, I cryo treated it and I haven't broken it yet) than there is really good materials lab measurements of what the mechanical improvements to parts actually are. It's getting better than it used to be, but I think it's still a little vague as to exactly what happens to the materials.

Hardness != crack resistance. It does correlate with wear resistance. Generally harder materials are less tough and more brittle. It's a cake and eat it too situation. The reason RB blocks like to split is about how material is where, and the weak design features (where a little more bracing here and there would have made the block stiffer, even if they had cast it with cheese).

Why not do something more effective?

Yup. Paint. Any paint at all. KillRust would be a good choice, as it is a good anti-rust primer as well as colour.

There's no good spot to mount more gauges in a GTR. The only halfway decent way to do it is with a full replacement A pillar mount, so that you don't drill holes in your original one.

Peak Hold is a good thing. It shows the highest boost achieved for a short period of time after each boost event. I'm not sure why you'd want to turn it off.

P.H. would be Peak Hold. PSI, because....it's reading out in PSI. No?

Is the top of your engine painted as a Serbian flag!?

I hate the look when the car burns down. But that's just me.

There's a whole lot of other things that could be wrong. Examples; The S1 engine could have been well worn when you bought it. The rings in it could all be stuck in the grooves, needing to be run properly to free up (or possibly dismantled and cleaned/freed up.)

Just wire it like the R33 GTR? Why even bother messing about? Just make the right sensor wires go to the right ECU pins.

Don't even consider trying to modify the existing arms to make them adjustable. There are adjustable urethane bushes you can put in, but they only offer a tiny adjustment. There are heaps of really good adjustable arms available. And some shitty ones. Many of the ones you see on eBay are fairly shitty. One brand worth looking at is Hardrace. You can get them with spherical joints or with hardened rubber bushes. For a streeter, especially a wagon, especially in the frozen ice-hole of Hoth (Canada) I'd not recommend sphericals. You will need to buy both the camber arms and the traction rods (adjustable) and whatever % change you make on the camber arms (from the stock length) you should make on the traction arms also. This is the best way to keep the bumpsteer response under control if you're not going to go to the effort of actually measuring the bumpsteer and correcting it in detail. And trust me. If your wheel aligner is using DR30 Skyline specs for aligning your Stagea, they are not qualified to be trying to measure bump steer! You should look to the equivalent era Skyline for guidance on wheel alignment. But more realistically, there would have to be plenty of people discussing the ideal settings for all the Stageas in their various wagon dungeons. For serious, my recommendation for the rear is -0.75° camber and 0.5 - 1.0 mm toe in each side. Make sure that your aligner does a thrust line alignment to make sure that the car isn't bent. If the front is driving one way, and the rear is driving another, you can't really win, then you have to start biasing the alignment front and rear to compensate, and there is no way anyone can advise yo what to do about that over the internet.

You would need to be able to edit posts. Which you can't.