GTSBoy

Good news. Neo turbo is not <204kW. It is >=204kW (it's actually 206). And yes, you can put NA bolt ons on the outside of a turbo motor, and yes it will suck.

He did mean exactly that. That is what we linked you to.

It won't even throw a CEL on any Skyline, even if it is 100% venting. But it sure as hell f**ks with the fuel-air ratio when it vents. Those hybrid BOVs that vent and recirculate are the most wanky of all. They are only to make the noise, whilst trying to keep the ECU and fuelling happy enough to cut out all the horseshit that a venting BOV causes.

It's what happens when you exclusively access the internet on a phone, type "de" and have the stupid device (the phone) think you were talking about it and autocorrect to "device".

Snap!

Uh! Open eyes. I pretty much vote now for using a Pulsar turbo.

Seriously?

It's a myth anyway. That myth is not the reason that Nissan fitted compressor bypass valves to our engines. They make the engines work better. Externally venting BOVs do not make them work better in the same way. In fact, if you still have you AFM, they make them work worse.

Question. Do you want to recreate the car with the exact same turbo? If so, then fair enough. But more realistically, if it just needs to be a turbo that looks roughly the same, there are a bunch of options and the choice comes down to picking one that matches the boost & flow requirements. That's a 1250cc 6 cylinder? Any T25 or T28 based turbo from a Nissan would be ample. Anything from an RB20 upwards would likely be too large, and also hampered by a ceramic turbine on most of them. Ceramic turbines are to be avoided.

No. The NA gearbox is physically much smaller. Like half the size. You don't need to upgrade either the diff or driveshafts. Not for strength reasons anyway, as the diff is the same strength as the turbo item and the axles are nearly as good. But.....you will want an LSD centre on a turbo. Note that I said driveshafts. You said driveshaft, and it is not clear whether you meant the tailshaft or the axles. Not that it matters, as both are strong enough. It's also not clear what the stroker kit and other parts are fitted to. The NA engine? A turbo engine in the shed? If you've done it to the NA, complete waste of time. If you've done it to the turbo, well, the yellowjackets are not a good choice, but beyond that, everything else is OK, if largely a waste of money. You will need brakes. And, are you sure that you will be allowed to drive a turbo on your P's?

Oh dear. Pretty trumps correct, again.

Just refurbish. All aftermarket shifters are largely aimed at the wank factor.

It's not the the thrashing itself that matters. It's the mental capacity of the thrasher that is important.

Wait......isn't this actually where we should be recommending an LS?

Yes, a brake shop would make that up in seconds. But your smarter choice would be to buy some braided lines and then you don't need it. Otherwise, you could probably find one at a wreckers.

Again, 12 points are for convenience. You should only use 6 point for breaking anything (that is really tight) loose, and you should only use impact sockets on the gun. 12 points will just round nuts. Non-impact sockets can take out an eye.

Get some Penetrene. 11ty time more powerful than WD40. It's truly industrial strength.

Do dump. Don't do cams. Save that for later if you still think you need more.

You're still working on the assumption that there is such a thing as "excess oil". I would argue you want full engine oil pressure available in the actuator and that the flow away from there through the bleed holes is whatever that pressure will cause applied to that cross-sectional area.

But what flow are we talking about here? This is not powered by flow. It is powered by static pressure. The oil doesn't have to go anywhere. There is probably a little flow channel somewhere to allow it to purge air out, but it is supposed to receive lots of oil pressure because it is oil pressure that pushes the actuator. It's not like a turbo where the oil just has to be there and any extra pressure will push it through the seals. Pressure is desirable here.

Anything that tough to crack will f**k a ratchet spanner anyway. They are not for loosening tough bolts, only for spinning in and out.

Aaaaaaaaannd.....it's a 2003 Pulsar. Don't spend any money on it.

I shouldn't think you need to restrict it. It is a hydraulic actuator.....you know, uses pressure to do shit.

WD40 + muscles. Long spanners & breaker bars. The usual.

Who cares what the gauge says?