GTSBoy

On an upshift, a double clutch is effectively just slowing down the shift, which is the recommended thing to do when your synchros are half f**ked. Just learn to drive the thing sympathetically.

As Ben said. But the main reason for higher pressure rad caps is to sell something to people who think that bigger numbers are better. Although, those same people demand lower temperature thermostats! lolz.

I've quoted the important words. Calculate the volume of the pipework. Now calculate the flowrates involved. Divide one by the other and then double the time for paranoia's sake. Undetectably small amounts of time. You don't have to cut anything to fit a return flow cooler to an R32 if you plan it out and do it right. The smart ones amongst us set it up so that the return pipe runs behind the reo bar (not under the cooler, like most kits). That keeps the whole core out in the breeze, not hiding behind the reo. My whole point is that there is no point wasting money and effort putting in a halfway right SMIC when you're planning to go 25 later anyway. Spending money twice is shitty.

This is funny. It's a Skyline forum. Not a truck forum. Almost no-one here will have ever laid eyes on a KA24. We had them in Navaras (and no-one ever lifts the bonnet on a ute!) and I think we have them in some pox ridden FWD Nissan Shitbox in the early-mid 90s (the Pintara, and its badge engineered Ford clone - and no-one ever lifted the bonnet on one of those either). So, perhaps just go down to the local Jap/Nissan wrecker and see what they have on the shelf? Might take you an hour.

Has far less effect than you could possibly believe. I put hand made return flow front mount on my R32 when it was still a 20 and experienced exactly zero decrease in response. The length of pipe myth is just that - a myth.

It's dying. Take it to a trans workshop. I mean, you could check the fluid level first.

I don't know. I gave you a helpful instruction to try to work out where the noise was coming from. Go have a poke around. You might learn something. If you tell us, we might too. You can also use a short length (like 500mm) of garden hose or similar. You put one end in your ear and put the other in various places. If the noise is coming from under the inlet manifold, then the diagnosis is likely to be very different than if the noise is coming from the timing cover area.

Use a screwdriver or hammer handle as a stethoscope to isolate where the noise is coming from. Yes, aftermarket belts can and do make different noises. That sounds a bit unpleasant. There is no such thing as "tighter" with timing belts. There is only the "correct" tension. If someone has added a bunch of tension to the belt, consider not doing that.

The first lesson has been learnt!

JustJap will get one in for around $3400.

Neither. You must use a suitable solvent. Carb cleaner is too volatile & will evaporate out of the bath before you can even use it.. There are specific products for use in ultrasonic cleaners for fuel injectors. Every time I used it. Depends. Do you care about blowing the motor up? 2% would be more the sort of area you'd want. Maybe. Depends on where the leak is. The top and bottom sealing points don't transfer from the machine to the manifold and fuel rail. Only the injector (& its o-rings) does. But if it doesn't drip through the injector, then at least that is good. Nope. Many different sizes.

Resoldered the AFM connections under the lid?

Let's just suggest that the differences are insignificant. Just because it has a different part number doesn't mean it's functionally different.

It's fine for that power, but those short split dumps are a big step down on long splits.

There's a difference?

No, the wiring connector or wiring is wonky. Take it apart work out what is going on. Don't ask on the internet why your dashlights are blinking. It's not the sort of thing that can be internet diagnosed.

Take it to a Nissan import experienced mechanic. It has multiple problems, including probably a very large vacuum leak. Internet diagnosis will be hugely annoying and it will turn out to be something completely unexpected.

If the idle is high and can't be controlled down with air, then the ECU should be trying to retard timing. Although, having said that, I don't know how much delta ignition control is done by the RB20 ECU. The 25s do it, just not as sure of the 20. Anyway, this is why it is important for you to work out if the timing marks actually are lined up with TDC properly (not the cam timing marks, the marks on the pulley). The rubber can slip on tired old balancers and the marks can be very wrong. if they are, then what you are doing with your CAS is not based on reality. We can't go about trying to solve really weird shit until we trust the numbers.

No. The idle screw is the gross base adjustment. The IACV is a controlled valve. The ECU controls it to open and close to allow more or less air to idle up or down. If there is no control because it is not doing what it is supposed to be doing, or, if it is closed down as far as it can because there is air coming iin via another pathway, then you are shit out of luck with respect to mechanical idle control. I wasn't talking about your odd 4k engine behaviour. I was clearly talking about idle control still. Go back and read again. If you want to work out how many degrees each mark on the pulley equates to, you just have to measure how far apart they are (dressmaker's tape measure) and compare that to the total circumference of the pulley. If the pulley was 360mm around (to use a nice simple assumption) and the marks were 10mm apart, then that would be 10mm out of 360mm and 360mm is equivalent to 360 degrees. So the 10mm is 10 degrees. If the pulley was 500mm around, then the 10mm would be only 360/500 = ~7°. For the marks to be 10 degrees apart on a 500mm circumference pulley, they'd need to be ~15mm apart. Get the idea?

About $20k for a nice GT-T.

I do not know how many times I have to say it.....RB20 ECUs do not given a flying f**k what the TPS voltage is. That sensor is provided for the benefit of the auto trans TCU only. The ECU only looks at the closed throttle switch. Stop confusalting the RB25 with the 20. If the idle won't come down, it would suggest that there is either a vacuum leak, the IACV is sticky/broken, the AAC is f**ked or you have the main throttle adjusted too far open. The ECU will attempt to rein in a runaway idle speed by delta control on ignition timing, meaning it will retard the timing to try to slow the engine. You should not be trusting the TDC mark on the pulley unless you have mechanically proven to yourself that it hasn't slipped. You need to put the engine on #1 TDC (sparkplug OUT) and see whether TDC actually lines up with the mark. Then you really need to understand the marks and how many degrees they represent. This is easy, as there are only 360 of them and they are spread out evenly around the circumference of the pulley, which is easily worked out from the diameter and a number called pi.

I'm not sure I understand. You've f**ked the thread on a stud, not a bolt. I'm pretty sure that that stud is welded into that bracket and you are not going to gain any more clearance to turn a tap on it removed than you have wit it where it is. The correct fix here would be to remove the whole lot and grind back whatever welds locate that stud (probably on the top side) and get it out and weld in a replacement.

Welcome to the site. I used to spend a bit of time in West Chester. Nice part of the world. Hopefully, when you say "Philadelphia area", you don't mean downtown Philly! cheers

Following the manual tells you exactly what to do. Experience tells you what not to do and what you have to look out for , etc. Experience is usually gained at some cost. Either time, or money, or both.

Are you talking about automatics? What about the TCU? 4 speed TCU won't run the 5 speed.