GTSBoy

Riddle me this. How much air do you think can come out of the leak compared to how much the turbo can pump? Enough to drop 1 psi? 2? How much 'til you notice? You would hear it looooong before you saw it on a boost guage.

Well, the reg down between the strut and the manifold is clearly not standard. As to the other one....seeing as I can barely see anything in your photo because you were standing on the other side of the country from your engine bay when you took it.....it is more than likely the stock pulsation dampener that sits on the rail.

It's the same small body gearbox as the RB20DET. Can't remember the codes for sure, but I think it's RP71C. There is supposed to be a 1 or a 2 after that, with 2 meaning twin synchro, which I think were the later ones.

No it wouldn't. Gap would have to be MASSIVE to let that much air out.

That's why I did not put any aftermarket gauges into my car that were already on the dash. Well, except the boost gauge, and I probably should swap that out for something else. EGT, Oil T, & boost, in the centre console. 3x 52mm panel. Works and does not crowd the place out.

Yeah, nah. Coolant temp is not an indicator of EGTs. You need a pyro or 6 installed to see that.

Hydraulic problem. Not getting enough movement at the final element in the chain.

You are going to be looking for no power where you should have power, no earth where you should have earth, no switching from OFF to ON when you should be having such switching (ie relay testing), etc etc.

Electrical fault finding without a multi-meter is TFH. They are <$10 @ Jaycar. Do yourself a favour.

Well, it is "just" an R200. But it is an aftermarket mechanical centre and I'm not sure which brand or model.

Why would you want to do this?

What do you mean you "shimmed it"? Did you just arbitrarily jam shims in between the outside of the centre and the axle bearings? If so, don't. You will f**k it. That is a mechanical LSD. Can't really tell if it is 1-way, 1.5-way or 2-way, because you did not show a good photo of the cams (visible in the round openings in the side of the centre's casing). You do not "shim" them. In fact you shouldn't "shim" a VLSD either, but let's not have that argument. The tightness of that LSD is set up INSIDE the centre. Not outside.

Cold oil: Oil flows straight through sandwich plate, via hoses to&from the filter. Hot oil: Sandwich plate thermostat opens. Unfiltered oil goes out to the cooler and back to the sandwich plate, then on to the filter & back. Your diagram looks correct.

Selling it on to someone? :p

Do you mean "loose in the slider"? Or do you mean "loose in some other random part of the frame where it might be able to be tightened up by looking for fasteners and applying a socket"?

Well, actually, you can get a rod&piston out with the crank still in. But getting the sump off a GTR in car is not a pleasant exercise. Pleasantness issues aside, the pure silliness of attempting to hone just one cylinder in an RB26 in situ rather than doing the job properly still needs to be stressed. Either do it properly or sell it on to someone who will.

To what? If it doesn't blow coolant out the cap or overflow bottle, then it is not boiling and it is still working. Thermostat on the Neo is set to ~90°, runs there all the time. Air-con on in 38° traffic the other day saw my oil temperature running over 110°C (and my oil temp is usually exactly the same as my coolant temp) and I just kept driving and no engines were damaged.

95 is not overheating.

Nononnonnnonnononononononono. Engine out. Build it properly.

You are just talking about changing the centre right? And you are aware that the crownwheel and pinion get moved from your old diff to the new centre, right? And the bearings are the same, and the stub axles are the same? And the only real difference is that if you have a viscous diff (that of course won't work at 600HP) the only real difference is the quality/type of LSD centre that you put in there? Ergo, choose from Cusco, Kaaz, Nismo, or even various others. They all have multiple different sorts available. 1-way for easy street driving. 1.5 way for mostly street and tough hills runs or a bit of track. 2-way for a track bruiser. And beyond that, some are adjustable in varying ways, some use higher tech internals. You'll need to read up on the many options then decide.

Almost sounds like you still have the factory solenoid in line. Standard that does 5psi bled up to 7. With another boost tee in line, set to 7, that would probably do 7 up to 10. You damn sure you disconnected it?

Anything with a 2mm decrease in base circle diameter is going to clear up to ~10.8mm, obviously enough. Why would it not? Arithmetic is all you need to sort that out.

Doesn't have to be specifically "Consult". Any workshop with a Snap-On or equivalent diagnostic handset should be able to do it. I threw my bro-in-law's diag unit* on my car and saw the ECU, TCU and HICAS computer all available. That was 20 years ago before the auto tranny fell out of it. * Can't remember the brand.

You need to get a proper scan tool hooked up to the diag port and see what the ABS CU has to say for itself.

You shouldn't even try to run these engines on 91 RON fuel, even on 6 psi. You may well have pinged the thing to death and no have lots of damage on top of your pistons making hot spots and making it more prone to pinging. Nevertheless, this is the standard "my car is missing" type of question and so all the standard answers that have been rolled out millions of time before apply. Ignition system, AFM, CAS, etc, etc etc. All possible. Internet diagnosis is impossible.