GTSBoy

R34 is the same as R32, I think. But there is no way that you can hook onto and pull from those "without damaging the vehicle". Maybe it's OK with a GTSt bumper and lip, but the GTR lip is substantially lower than the hooks and if you strap onto them and pull forward the strap crushes the bar upward. The only way it can work is if the rope is not very long the towing vehicle's connection point is very close to the ground. I think you have to do this

Also, $800 is a steep discount on the standard PRP price. Are you sure that you would have the coils, stalks, bracket and loom in the $800? Or are you talking in yeehaw dollars?

What shits me is when people use the word "industry" to describe something like "the (horse) racing industry" or "the nightclub industry". No kunts! These are not industries. Mining, manufacturing, farming. These are industries. Any form of service? Very hard to call it an industry. A sector, or a group of enterprises, sure. But there is no industry. I don't even like the use of the word in relation to movies, TV or music. No industry there either. Just work and product, but arguably for things that are far from essential, therefore optional. They live in a section of the economy that is economically powered by actual industries. So short people on horses can go and get fu(ked. Same with the dogs, casinos, pokies in hotels, all those miserable workers and leagues clubs in NSW and QLD (thank your imaginary sky wizard of choice that we don't have that shit over here in SA), etc etc. Dig shit, build shit. Call in an industry. Craft shit out of recycled pubic hair, tampon strings or sampled 1970s guitar licks? GTFO. Keep horses for anything other than fat arsed bitch's recreation or mustering livestock, ditto.

Measure the vertical distance from wheel centre to guard. If it is <345-350mm, do not consider going any lower. Should not be any lower than that, otherwise the LCAs will be at the wrong angle and you'll not have good handling. Although I'm guessing that in HK looks are more important than performance anyway. As Duncan already said, when you lower the car you gain -ve camber anyway, which tucks the tops in more. But....as he also said, adjustable arms are usually used to wind some of that extra -ve camber back out, not increase -ve.

Well, it's not off any "model" - as in, I really don't think it is Nissan. Some aftermarket crowd from back in the days when there was no weight limit to the amount of body kit that could be strapped on.

Welcome. Have you recently come into an inheritance, or won Lotto or something?

And they also confess that they just 3D printed them! Which makes me wonder if they will buckle in the heat worse than the originals did. Perhaps I need to hire a Chinese hacker to get the print files out of Nismo's server?

700 bloody Nismobux!

Actually, given that one of mine is in 2 pieces, I agree with this.

@Dose Pipe Sutututu I don't think the RB ECUs can do the boost control thing. That's S14 and 15, no? The RB boost control output is just a digital, not PWM.

Yes. Same same.

The side bits just dangle in the breeze. They don't do anything. Neither does the rest of it, without a flat floor and some time spent testing to find out how low you need to make the car to gain any effect.

WRT subs in a Skyline, my approach was just to mount suitable** 6.5 sub woofers in the parcel shelf and drive them from the sub outputs of my head unit (yes, my head can unit can be set up to use the rear outputs to drives sub(s) directly - odd, I know). But you could obviously do the same with a discrete amp in the boot. **Means with suitable T-S parameters for mounting in a very large enclosure or infinite baffle. This is directly the opposite of what most sub driver designers are doing, because most people want to stuff the most sub into the smallest enclosure possible. But they do exist.

1998 would be the compliance date.

All RB flywheels bolt to all other RBs.

Yup.

Yeah. Except. It doesn't. Big Tao highflow WG flapper swings freely in there. Is no problem.

Stock engine & turbo. No changes to anything except: Divided dump, 3" catback wit good cat. FMIC return flow (good core and hand fabricated tanks & pipes to make the most of the space behind the bumper reo. Steel turbo inlet. Boost controller. Oh. & Splitfires, which is worth nothing, really.

I drive the Neo in 5th at 50 km/h. You don't want to floor it, because it does grumble a bit, but it is flexible enough to roll around down that low. At 60-70km/h it is perfectly driveable in 5th.

No. Not even good for turning the boost up on a stock turbo. No. Stock turbo, running to ~12 psi, which is about the max that is reasonable on a 25Neo, will max out at <200rwkW. Depending on the bullshit factor of the dyno, of course. Mine, on a very reasonable dyno, made 191rwkW. Yes, true. Although, having them in place and tuned before you upgrade the turbo is a wise move. That way, you know that they work and you have a feel for what headroom you have before you do the turbo. If you do it all at once, when the inevitable problems rear their ugly heads, trying to get it started or trying to tune it on the dyno, you have multiple changes all at one time that could be responsible for the problem.

You cannot exceed about 220rwkW on the stock AFM. So if you're planning to go higher, then yes, R35 AFM required (for Nistune). Same with injectors. They top out at the same sort of power. So you will want 725s. NOT 1000s. Nistune is not great with big injectors. The ECU tech is too old for really short pulse widths. Intake doesn't matter at the power levels you're talking about. Do what you like. Returnflow coolers start to present extra resistance at the <300rwkW level you're talking about. They still work, but at a cost. If you want to unload the turbo a bit, make tuning easier (ie from less exhaust back pressure) then a cross flow is sensible.

Nah. Per the other thread, in which he posted the dyno chart.... Wheel spin bitches!

Yeah, this.

You mean all of the reserve NA torque? But for a Neo with a better inlet manifold and VCT, there is both more of that available, and also....meh. Use a little boost, change down a little more frequently, etc etc. All I can say is that 1st gear would be a hell of a lot more useful with a taller diff ratio. I used to have 4.3 (because it was a 2L) and I had that in there when I first did the Neo swap. After the change to 4.11 gears, the car was infinitely better to drive. The old mantra from the 80s, when adding a turbo was, put in taller diff gears, use the torque adder that you've just bolted to the exhaust manifold as it was intended. Yet, for some reason, Skylines have 4.11 gears and bloody Silvias have 3.7s! Never understood that.