GTSBoy

The best way is..... to just keep the system exactly as stock, but with the catch can inserted between the rocker and the turbo inlet. PCV working, no venting on the catch.

Build up on valves is possibly zinc or calcium or some other metal from oil being burnt.

Detonation is a killer.

Maybe. Make your decision as you go, perhaps.

Hmm. Just the top ones I think. I think you need to drill the tail end of teh crack (if you can find it properly) to stop it propagating, and that might be difficult to do if you also try to put another cross bolt into the lower end of the long crack. The worst part of the problem is that on the inside it looks like the crack has run all the way down and around. Meaning that it already wants to jump off. Good luck with the drilling. Some sort of jig/fixture is definitely going to be needed to make sure that everything stays trued up while you do it. I'd also hate to do it by hand/eye.

And, as a bonus, you'll get better performance. Win win.

Any of the approaches described could work, and any of them could fail after sometime/distance. Looking at the photos, I would say that RIPS recommendations are possibly valid provided the top surface hasn't dropped, as they say. But I look at the widest gap on that crack and I think to myself.....that's not going to stay there. If trying to salvage it with epoxy approaches, I would do one of two things. I suspect that the first thing might even be a fallback position if the 2nd thing doesn't work (ie if the second style of repair resulted in a failure where the patch falls off). 1. Drill the bottom ends of the cracks to attempt to stop them propagating (we're talking very small drill here). Drill holes through from the wobbly bit into the good walls of the block. Diameter suitable to take a good sized cap screw. Cut a step in around the outer end of the hole to provide a shoulder for a cap screw to sit on and apply force to. Clearance drill the part of the hole in the wobbly bit to clear the thread of the cap screw. Tap the holes in the block wall. This so that you're not engaging thread in the wobbly bit. You're only trying to push the wobbly bit back towards where it came from. Apply sealant to the crack area as RIPS suggest and then put in the bolts and pull the cracks closed. This part of the block is very non-structural and there are no significant loads there, but I would very much worry about that bit deciding to jump off the rest of the block if there is not some sort of mechanical connection providing for in the right direction to prevent the crack propagating further (which would likely propagate around to complete the loop and make the wobbly bit come off.) 2. Bite the bullet and rip the wobbly bit off. Drill 2 or 4 holes into the block wall on the exposed fracture surface. Tap the holes and pop in some cap screws to act as anchors. Break out the Devcon and pretend you're back in pre-school and remake the broken off section. Prep the top surface and put in the M6 hole (perhaps put in a helicoil there, and....cross fingers. I have seen a Peugot 504 engine have substantial parts of the block face and the front end of the head remade in Devcon and last for years and years. You can perform miracles with the stuff if you work clean and smart. Anything that just fills the crack with sealant is likely to leave the M6 hole out of alignment with the head. If you can get the head on and test fit that bolt, you might be able to allay the fear of that happening. Otherwise, per Andrew's suggestion, I would definitely take it to someone who is confident and experienced at welding cast iron, particularly blocks and heads. Because again, as this area is not structural, you only need it to keep the oil on the inside and not just drop off and wave around in the wind.

The front of the clockspring turns with the steering wheel - or more to the point, with the splined shaft. The rear of the clockspring stays mounted to the column (not the shaft, the fixed part of the column).

Champion effort. Nice quality.

The wheel has splines. The shaft has splines. If you turn the wheel, the shaft turns the same number of degrees. If you take the wheel off and then rotate the shaft, then so long as you rotate the wheel to the same angle before you put it back on, then there is no change in the relationship between the wheel and the shaft, so nothing changes. The easiest way to do this is with a little alignment mark on the end of the shaft running onto the wheel hub. The only "release" described in the method is: Unlock the steering height angle adjuster, if needed, to allow the column shroud to be removed (again, if needed), Unlock the ignition barrel lock so the wheel can rotate. This is probably to prevent accidentally breaking the lock when you're beating the shit out of the wheel trying to get it to come off the spline. Neither of those things will allow some sort of random repositioning of all the components in the steering column so that you now suddenly have your wheels facing off to a random side or pointing in different directions. The steering column is still rigidly connected to the rack. Put a pair of vice grips on the splines and you'll be able to steer the car (and get a massive defect and possibly die when you impale yourself on the shaft in the inevitable crash).

Nissan used the same connectors on many other cars washer bottles around the same era. You could just drag one of the pumps out and take it to a wrecker and see what fits. I'm not sure if I remember the two plugs being different. I think they might be, to prevent mixing up the front and rear pump. In which case, you'd need to take both. But if you only took one, and were looking at a Nissan with 2 pumps on the washer bottle, and one of them fit, you'd be reasonably sure the other one would fit the other pump back at home.

What difference does it make if anything/everything moves.....if you put the wheel back on the same spline?

One is the outlet, goes to the rack. The other is the inlet, comes from the PS reservoir.

It's not like it's hard to put it back on the same spline. Paint pens have been a thing for about 40 years.

Whatever the largest drop in that Kelford does. /thread

Especially given that you can throw (and plenty of people do) a 140A alternator at them and nothing bad happens.

I thought they were closed to the public these days? Otherwise I would have said the same.

There is nothing in the CAS that should be able to make ANY sound. It is a thin disc that spins through a gap in the sensor, which shines light through slots in the disc to count degrees of rotation. There is no contact between any moving parts in there. So, I can only assume that the drive off the end of the exhaust cam has broken, or something equally horrible. Take the CAS off and have a look. There should be an obvious match between the drive male and female on the cam end and the back of the CAS. Anything that is missing, smashed up/powdered or falls down into the timing cover when you pull the CAS is an obvious bad sign. The fact that the ECU tells you there is nothing wrong is suspicious. Can you see it saying that it sees the home/reset signal when you check the software while cranking?

So, I must ask, what do you mean by "sound from the trriger". Where is this sound coming from? And, why haven't you fired up the Haltech software to see what the ECU says is going on?

You don't need to make another thread. We saw your other one.

You only need the red and the black to make the main lamp work. Where does the brown wire go? You could look and report on what the other end is connected to. Does it just go to the loom plug? It may have been for the equivalent of a parker globe or a halo, or it could be a "body" earth for the housing of the spotty.

That might be your mental model, but an engine that has the rpm jumping up and down and all the control actions that the ECU thinks it has to perform in order to repair that shitty condition will very likely result in an increase in fuel consumption. Not to mention all the other negative consequences of unstable combustion, which includes incomplete combustion which can lead to both sooting (and hence carbon build up in places where you don't want it) and cylinder wall washing. But then that's why engineers design engines, and not everyone else.

When faced with the same thing I recently(ish) bought Hertz C 165 6.5" 210 Watts Cento Series Component Woofer - Pair from Frankies Auto Electrics. I only bought the woofers because I was reusing some crossovers and tweeters that would work real well with them, but the full kit wouldn't have cost a lot more. They are very good speakers for the price.

I strongly suspect that unless you have the ear of the engineers at Garrett, or equivalent - ie you're running an important race team in an important race series - then you're probably not "designing" these things from first principles. You're probably running on trial and error. It's still a time-tested approach to exploring new ground, even if the ground is not completely new. If someone else owns all the maps and won't share, you have to make your own! I'm sure there are people who are sufficiently clever in a few orthogonal directions who could start with what's known, and via good gut engineering, or small step trial and error, or throwing a lot of random shit at the wall to see what sticks, or big bold concepts, could get to the answer(s) as to what works. As such, I'd suggest you'd be looking to see if you could leach information from any rally race teams that had to run under some old restrictor rules where they bought or learnt the lessons, and could pass on much of it because it's no longer relevant to their competition. There might be some of those in Oz. Maybe also in NZ.

^^ Yes. Essentially. With respect to what happens to compressor maps. Even without a restrictor, the choke limit on any compressor inlet is the sonic velocity. Obviously you can't and don't exceed ~300m/s in the inlet. Importantly, even without a restrictor, air going that fast is already at significantly reduced static pressure (this is because you gain dynamic pressure at the expense of static pressure - they have to add up to the presure you started with, which is only 101.325 kPa at sea level on an ISO standard day). The dynamic pressure associated with the velocity is many tens of kPa, and you only have ~100 kPa available at atmospheric pressure. So the air density goes down. I think that standard compressor maps effectively take this inlet velocity static P drop into consideration anyway. After all, they are tested in an actual compressor housing, with an actual inlet throat. With a restrictor, you will choke** the flow in the restrictor and then the air expands back into the volume between the restrictor throat and the impeller inlet face, leading to the reduced static pressure that you would expect. This reduction in static pressure and density is on top of the existing drop in static pressure resulting from the high air velocity. Shit starts to get weird and you have to keep your wits about you when talking about this stuff, because now the "vacuum" caused by the restrictor means the air is at a lower density, which means its sonic velocity is higher than it was at normal/standard density and the amount of dynamic pressure associated with velocity is on a different slope than it used to be. All very complicated, and I'm not going to try to straighten it out in my head sufficiently to make sense of it. Anyway, what it means is that you actually a dedicated compressor map for the inlet pressure condition that you have to run at. You can't easily use the standard comp map and just look to higher pressure ratios (to account for the vacuum in the inlet). This is because the relationship between mass flow and pressure ratio will also be changing, so where the choke line is, where the speed lines and efficiency lines are, will all move around. You'd need to do the work that generated the standard comp map again, with a restrictor in place, to create a map that you can trust. ** The reduction in static pressure caused by the restrictor occurs even without reaching the choke point. A restrictor is just that, a restrictor. It causes a pressure drop, and some of that pressure drop is permanent and unrecoverable. That's how they work.