Duncan

Firstly the bad news is that side A goes into the engine, and side B faces out. Sounds like you have them the other way around. Those caps are just baffle plates to reduce oil spraying around, you remove them first if you need to remove the cam caps. No need to touch them if you are just doing the timing belt You should really replace the idler and tensioner bearings, and the bolt and stud respectively that hold them when you do the timing belt. The tensioner spring is actually held on the small stud you can see to the right of the tensioner in your pic, not the water pump bolt. When you have lined the new belt up properly (tensioner held back with an alley key, nut loose) you release the allen key so the tensioner is on the spring, rotate the motor twice using the balancer and the tension will be correct (tighten the tensioner nut).

Agreed. It is possible to snap a cam either removing or installing it if you are a gorilla. But if you take it incrementally it is perfectly safe.

It left the factory KH3 which I believe is black

The ECU connector is totally different (2 row vs 3 row), you need the non-neo one to match your car. They should come up all the time, r33 rb25 Power FC is reasonably common, r34 neo rb25 less so

Best to post up here, and I think you will need to provide your vin

I've got an R auction car in Oz, my cima had a rear end accident and quality repair. The car has been complied in Australia and there is no sign of the repair, and no problem with the car for more than 200,000klm now. Simply, I'd go for it, particularly for race use, as long as a broker I trusted inspected in directly.

Yes, multiple ways to deal with it. But the one that doesn't cost 00s or 000s is small wheel spacers. If they are legal where you are.

That's your caster rod/ radius rod. Basically, the tyre is to wide for the offset of your wheels. You may have previously had tyres the "same" size but in practice different tyre manufacturers have different actual tyre sizes for a nominated size like 225/50r16 Easiest solution, assuming you have plenty of thread on your wheel nuts, is to add a 5mm alloy spacer, which will push the wheel out 5mm, assuming they are legal where you are.

Agreed. Although head gasket is the most likely (but not) only reason for 2 adjacent cylinders to have low compression

hmmm, actually there is some problem moving it, will try and work it out...

Sorry mate, didn't realise it was in the wrong section, fixed. And your helper looks about as helpful as the ones at my place.... Centre lock is a big step, it will definitely restrict your wheel choice (and price) too. Radicals do it by bolting an adapter onto the standard 4 stud ford ka hub that they use, but that doesn't save you weight or get you a better quality wheel bearing.

As long as it is warm but not overheating, oil pressure is right and the tune is good, you should do everything to it, all the time, except hit the rev limiter more than briefly. If you are doing track work on good tyres, oil surge causing loss of oil pressure can be an issue. If your tune is not right for your fuel octane, or you have a fuel system problem (failing pump, pump wiring, clogged injectors, failing regulator) it could ping and melt a piston (keep an ear out for that, it is a distinctive "rock in a tin can noise") If your timing belt, and the idler and tensioner bearings have not been replaced every 100,000, do so ASAP. If it is misfiring, stop pushing it and sort out the problem (many causes) If it uses oil between changes (I'd suggest every 5-10,000klm depending on what you use and how you treat it), start saving for a rebuild (head and/or bottom end)

Generally, because test conditions and procedures vary, you'd be looking for consistency in the result (which you do have) more than the specific numbers. Apart from actual engine problems, bigger cams can lead to lower results, but so can incorrectly calibrated gauge, poor battery charge, test technique etc etc It is higher klm so you should expect some ring wear by now, I'd keep an eye out for white smoke and oil consumption between oil changes, that should give you a good indication if they are worn. In any case, those results are no sign you are about to have a sudden failure. Maybe just start saving for a rebuild (cost will vary based on how much you do at the same time)

I'm limited in what I can change by production car rules, I have to run standard pump but can (and have) changed the pulley to underdriven. I had issues with leaking from the cap until I added a reasonable sized cooler but it has been OK since. HICAS is removed and so are the vanes in the rear stage of the pump so it doesn't die from pushing against the blocked off line. I also lost a belt once but NFI why as nothing had changed recently, and only once in 10 years race/rally

r32 hicas has 2 outlets from the power steer pump...and that pic (while difficult to see clearly), seems to have 2 outlets.

Hi Josh, I'd suggest calling Unigroup as they are not too far and may well have a consult 3 or something that will work. If not, Gary at Just Jap (further away) is almost certain to have the technology you need. All the best with a CVT issue, they can be a bit tricky, you may need to talk to Just Jap due to their experience resolving those issues. V35 were pretty early for high torque CVTs and I think they are problematic sometimes.

pm replied, with manual

well the good news is that is likely to be straightforward....the hazard light positive is earthed somewhere... first, unhook the flasher unit and replace the fuse, does it still blow? Yes, replace flasher, no, you have a wiring issue. It's not impossible it is a globe but unlikely (you could pull out each globe in turn and see if that resolves the issue, don't forget the locally added side repeaters in the guard). Nissan (or amayama) should have the flasher, if not an aftermarket replacement is an option but you will need to connect the terminals correctly. If it is a wiring issue you really need to start pulling things apart to access the wiring to find the problem, or if that doesn't sound like fun take it to an auto electrician. Another possibility, as it is non turbo, is to just set it on fire and put the video on youtube, hopefully the advertising income will exceed the value of the car.

Our dam has been equally kind over the years as the drought has gone on. Got a hilux alternator from it the other week

a bit of heat always helps, ally fittings can seize in a cast block unfortunately. Given that its already f**ked id take to it with a hammer and chisel after a bit of heat to try and get it started. Once it goes should be easy enough to get on. sounds funny but another option might be those plumbers pipe wrenches as its a pretty big fitting if you have space

Also get plenty of wd40 etc on the studs and hard lines for a couple of days before. The biggest (unexpected) thing is normally studs failing and snapping, so if you can have them freed up as possible before you start it will really help. Once a stud has given out you might be lucky and able to get it off with whatever remains, or you might have to drill and easi out it which is where the job turns into a disaster. Heat /blow torch can really help if you don't like how it feels when you are undoing it. The hard lines often won't free up from the banjo properly so they turn with it an eventually snap, so like Ewan said aftermarket braided lines handy means you don't have to worry about that. Good luck mate!

It's not worth it. But interesting point, it may have been de-turboed before you got it. The build plate in on the firewall will tell you, either post up a pic of it or let us know the main string of letters/numbers, something like ER33-0123456

unless your location is incorrect, you have the major benefit of a billion mechanics nearby with consult tools. I would start with that for sure. when you installed the lock bar, what did you do with the hicas solenoids in the engine bay, and the power steering pump's second port? The idle dropping and headlights diming is almost certainly due to the power steering pump activating and adding drag to the engine. With the steering rack there is a pressure switch where if you turn the wheels the ECU ups the idle. I'm not familiar with HICAS but presumably when it is pumping fluid the same issue occurs (ie, the ECU needs to know to keep the revs up)

there are lots of variations over the 20 odd years these were made. I guess the question is why exactly do you need to know, or are you just interested? the short blocks/ bottom ends are pretty much the same, heads were different between original and NEO, sump is different between 2wd and 4wd (since 4wd has a diff in it), and various external bits like CAS, ignitors/coils, turbo changed between years and models too. The key difference in the NEO for aftermarket use is the improvements in the head which made them flow better and also better starting point for modifications.

lol just like the workshop manual says. the only things worth mentioning are dropping the rear of the gearbox by lowering (but not removing) the gearbox cross member bolts, will make getting to the top bolts much easier (either from above, or by using a set of long extensions while standing at the rear of the gearbox), and of course the engine has to be on the exact sample angle as the gearbox/input shaft when you get to the last couple of cm. BTW I hope the mechanic is mates rates if they needed to get you to ask this...