Duncan

careful what you wish for I can confirm the mods are keeping a close eye on this thread but haven't seen anything that concerned us in the last day or 3

absolutely, the block and cradle are a pair. Even when they come together from the the same engine they should still be measured and potentially machined to make sure the main bearing clearances are correct.

Fuse #2 (Electronic parts) appears to control only the automatic spoiler and it's computer and switches Fuse #3 (Transmission control) looks after the auto trans gear selector and computer If neither of these are working, and should be, then put a fuse in.....otherwise everything is fine They use the same fuse box for all 32s with lots of different engines, transmissions, features

Yep definitely needs machining to match the block

Or possibly also simply boiled brake fluid (the better the fluid the more water it absorbs so the more often it needs bleeding). I have had a split line to the brake booster (in an Emo 9) and the pedal was rock solid but did pretty much nothing when I stomped it, it's quite a distinctive feeling and not what you are describing. Oh and for fun it happened to me at 250 at bathurst in the chase....Modern braking systems are not designed to work without the booster so they don't have much pedal leverage on their own.

OK, the fuel return lines are all complete and in place including the fittings to the hard line to the front of the car, the cooler and the ethanol sensor all back to the surge tank then overflowing back to the main tank Also got the pressure side mostly done, main line to the front with hard line fittings is in place, with small/secondary fuel filter and pressure sender back to the new 044 pump and sure tank. Then put the subframe back in because everything is (hopefully) finished under there. And the main fuel filter is mounted on the HICAS rack so the subframe needed to be back in to finish off. So just need angle fittings for either end of the main filter, run the line from the min tank and to the surge tank and the rear fuel system is done. At the front I've just switched to dash fittings but I'll finish that off including the t piece on the return for the fuel sampler fitting once the engine is back in.

No, I haven't ever tried a DIY one. I do have a greddy informeter that did my cima (unusual CAN/OBD), you're welcome to give it a plug in and see if it works.

How about we keep this thread on topic and not personal.

lol that's what I thought too....if it's the same colour you may have been able to leave it a bit longer I generally use half a bottle for the first corner (right rear) then the other half of the bottle for the other 3. The line to the rear is by far the longest

I did take some pics of how it is mounted, not sure how helpful they will be though because there's really only 1 way to do it and anyone doing it should know how.... DS mounting to chassis rail from the outside DS mounting to chassis rail from inside Additional central mounting (through plate welded in spare wheel well) No pics of the PS mounting because it's under the exhaust, heat shield and exhaust hanger mount. But its the same as DS Where it sits, it was made for non Dayz kit which made this install a pain back in the day

Lots of these cars have subframe bush issues by now, they take all the load every time you put power down....which can be often and a lot in a skyline. If you haven't removed your subframe like OP a better option is to install some alloy locking collars, they slip in between the subframe and chassis and stop the car moving ont he bushes, They are noiser than standard but if you can put up with that it saves a big job

I don't know what else is the same, but I have 2 spare 32 heater cores if you need one....$80 + postage....

well if you want to depin it, the rear half of the connector will swing up and around which will unlock the pins. use a sharp pick to lever it up then out of the way. then each pin will have a plastic locking tab, get the pick under it and the pin will slide out of the connector. Reassembly is much easier, just push the pins back in then clip the locking tab back onto the rear of the connector...keeping in mind if any pins is out of order you will probably fry something. Definitely no need to cut

Just wrap it in tape. Yes you could unpin the plug and pull it through but you can break the fitting doing that, and you might put it back together incorrectly...

for a road car, I'd use anything you get. nolathene, whiteline, gtech, whoever in my race car I did have to replace nolathene bushes again after about 10 years because they crumbled away but I think they'd be OK indefinitely for road use.

well you've just got to ask yourself, how many sets of R34 GTT rotors do you think any single shop sells each day...then you can see from their point of view why they only ever order them in.....

well the sad fact is that cold start tuning is a little fiddly compared to the easy stuff (full throttle power runs). Lots of tuners don't give it enough attention and I'd guess that's what happened here. The good news is it is easily fixed by a competent tuner with a little time, and there's nothing wrong with PFC capabilities...

do you mean it idles low initially, and then the idle rises as the car starts to warm up? that's not a problem with PFCs, its a problem with your tune, or air or fuel mechanical system. it may be running too rich until the water temp rises and pulls fuel out, is it also missing at first?

One other thing, no-one will have them in stock. You'll have to order them in...

i'm not aware that there is any english workshop manual for 33 gtr as it was only sold in Japan. The most common PDF is for 32 but is generally the same. I printed the PDF because I prefer paper in the garage, about 800 pages.

I used genuine on my most recent build, but I've previously used cut down lengths of rubber hose and they worked fine too. Changing the 20 year old ones is a good idea....

I ended up going with these....not the cheapest but not expensive either....http://www.blingworkauto.com.au/product/jw-speaker-h4-hilo-6200k-led-bright-white-headlight-bulb-for-toyota-hilux/

Changed the FPR across, it struck me it had been on there forever without being changed over. Now I've looked at it I'm happy I checked it out..... Got some more done on the fuel system; subframe back out with Neil's help and the flex sender mounted up Started making up the lines and fittings. t fitting for the fuel pressure sender and the secondary filter are here, it will be mounted next to the surge tank where it's easy to remove and clean. Lots of others still to do of course Pulled the fuel lines off and cleaned them, mounted the -6 compression fittings on either end of the feed line. Also replaced the pump, it's been in there a long time and is a little noisy.

hmmm I have some slack update periods. Actually I have some slack working on car periods as well of course. So, some updates from the last few months. I mentioned earlier I had some 18x9.5 +12 rays for the car and they weren't a good fit, so I ordered some forged BC rims in 18x10+22 which should be the actual right offset for a GTR. Oddly Rays only make wheels in 9.5 or 10.5 which is too small or too large for targa rules. BC make them to order in any size And they are nice and light too, look like they will be strong enough to bash on things Also decided to replace the broken headlights I'd had in there for 15 years, I picked up a pair of base model 32 lights AKA N1 spec. Had to get them from Japan through Jesse Streeter / Yahoo auctions since I coudn't find a decent set locally. I also bought the brackets from Kudos that hold the gtr grill in They came up nice after a clean and paint I switched across to LEDs too, will see how they go

lol, you mean other than a major PITA? I'll check something out but I don't have access to anything other than retail couriers