hardsteppa

Are you near Wexford by any chance mate?

that's pure turbo-porn right there.

Tightened to 200 nm? It's not measured like that. The tensioner spring sets the tension. Did you follow the workshop manual instructions? It is fairly straightforward once you understand the steps, and there is a full thread on here about it for further tips.

255/40/17 is my tyre size. They're not hard to come by although agreed, 18 and up has far more options. In the 255/40/17 though, a few options/opinions> - Hankook RS4. Not used them, and seen a few user reviews that don't rate them highly for track/performance use. I believe they're meant to be a step up from their RS3 - a tyre which massively underwhelmed me, so i won't be trying the 4. - AD08r's - very good, as their reputation says. Also very expensive for what they are, and they lasted me the same time as RSRR's. - RSRR's. In my opinion the best value (not the best) tyre in that size, at $170 fitted. Good in the wet until low-tread, and they get better with a bit of heat into them. I like them alot for great overall value, and suitable for low-level track stuff. - RT615K - middle of the range price, and quite reasonable performance. However their build quality is really good, and that tread pattern is hottt. Would buy again and would recommend, although as said, wouldn't say they are top of the pile....just wouldn't disappoint, and present good value for money. - V720 - is likely to be my next tyre. Haven't used a set myself and noise isn't a concern for me, but seems for the price and reviews, they present good value, have a sexy-as tread pattern, and perform pretty well overall. I wouldn't look at anything over a 200 treadwear for any serious performance/track use, and seems the Pilot Sport 4s are more of a performance daily-driver tyre?

Etya tvů doma tovarisch :), ask and we will help.

Think theyre m12 x 1.5 but dont take my word for it. If you dont have verniers to measure then even just eyeball it against a ruler. They are high grade though, so i would buy a new oem bolt...or audi make a very good quality bolt too, fyi.

further to that, found that FC Pro labels it a little differently >> So seems yes it is for dwell change rather than timing.

I'm putting R35 coils onto the RB25 shortly, and seems adjusting the dwell in a Power FC isn't straightforward as there's no table labelled " Dwell Ms > Voltage" , and all the info I can find on setting up the R35 coils refers to directly entering the specified ms against the voltage point. While researching I read one post saying the "IGN Vs BattV" table referred to adjusting the actual IGN timing rather than dwell, but it would make much more sense if it referred to the dwell compensation as noted above by Trent, although doesn't seem he was specifically referring to the PFC. I also found this post screenshotted below, and the formula makes sense, giving around 1.7 as the dwell for stock coils. so from there, with that formula making the figures in the "IGN dwell vs RPM" > "Adjust" column around 1.7 for stock coils, to get the R35 coil dwell into the mid-4ms range needed at 14 volts you would need to enter the new increased values into the "Adjust" column at each rpm point, and once done, then move to the "IGN vs BattV" table and enter the change at each voltage as a percentage to get the desired ms at each voltage point. Does that make sense, or does anyone have any details on how new coil dwell should be set up in the PFC? ..thank you

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/INCONEL-TURBO-STUD-COPPER-LOCK-NUT-SET-OF-4-M10-X-1-5-X-40MM-LONG/172690667833?hash=item28352a7939:g:3egAAOSwtgJbej58 has done what it says on the tin.

Also nismo and oem are rubber..my oem ones looked fine after 16 years when i pulled them out.

^^^agreed. Went from oem to superpro, now have nismo. Don't think i'd be able to tell the difference in a blind test...aluminium might be a dufferent story. Given its not a moving part, wear as such shouldn't be an issue.

I've found those OEM locking tabs to be useless, even when hammered with an extension so it forms around the nut....so i don't bother with them anymore. Only thing that has stayed in place for me was using inconel studs and copper locktab nuts....stayed on damn tight, so far.

Yep disregard...man i am a 'tard sometimes, probably should have waited till i got home and had a proper look before posting. All sorted; gtsboy on the money again lol.

Thanks gtsboy, yes will try this tonight, and pull plugs to see if i can narrow it down to a cylinder.

so, car is a 1996 s2 R33, RB25DET engine, running a PFC and aftermarket fuel rail. The unused centre cap of the rail had a fine leak spraying fuel out so pulled it out and put a new cap/seal on, and black Toyota FIPG on the threads cos it's a bitch to pull out and i don't want it to leak ever again. Rail/injectors are just on 6 months old (1/2 length Bosch ev14 960cc injectors). Had a real problem finding o-rings in stock though so only found new o-rings for the top (fuel) end of the injectors, and re-used lower manifold-end o-rings, which were still flexible/compliant. Starting it up this morning after finishing the job last night - no leak from the fitting, but now idling 18:1 + afr. Afr's go back to normal 14.7:1 range as soon as driving and up in the rpm range, it's just at idle, and is lumpy as a rotary too. I am thinking slight air leak through manifold-end o-rings on one or more injectors, enough to make it run lean, but any further thoughts or feedback would be appreciated. Further info - when coilpack connections are pulled off one at a time it becomes a definite misfire, so all cylinders are still firing, just not fully/normally. - fuel pressure is still fine, 2.5bar at idle, changes under load/vac. - ign timing is still fine and 15 deg (Had tuned up idle and timing just before i did this job, was idling bang on 800-830rpm where i want it, and 15 deg timing). - new throttle body gasket was fitted too. - Only issue before doing this was the slight fuel spray/leak, the car itself was running freakin fantastic, and pulling out/refitting the injectors and rail was all that was done - apart from removing/refit all the other shizz you need to, to get to the fuel system.

Or you can dismantle and service them, despite engine manual saying no...i think its just time consuming, not done it myself.

Ok, so is there something wrong with your current lifters, that you need to replace them?

Klutched i have an r33 abs diff housing here you can have free if you find you need it.

I like the R37 the most...i'm ahead of my time. My favorite features would have to be the Whisper Mode and the gun turret that follows wherever the driver looks. Oh wait...no that's Blue Thunder, my mistake..

how did you go with the rack ends, find what you need? Info is here from the Roadsafe catalogue. rack end is exactly that; the bit that screws into the steering rack, and tie rod end goes onto the end of those. It's worth replacing all as they're important lol, and you need a wheel alignment after replacing any 1 of them. Bursons are a better place to get these, rather than Supercheap or Repco. GK Tech do a cut-to-length rack end that are good/cheap, and a great cromoly hicas delete bar too.

I am thinking you are long gone? but #1 for a helpful post..i applaud the man that posts info for others future reference.

rated to 300rwkw? almost 500hp at engine? not bad for organic clutch, GLWS.

welcome mate, Brissy eh? I look forward to selling you some R33 parts lol... Maybe start a thread for your project in the "builds" forum? always good to see other projects take shape.

no, he didn't say he was doing the work himself, he said he was looking to install himself. I assumed OP is a camshaft...or possibly a turbocharger. I may have read it wrong.

sold now, thanks. Still have available - NISMO adjust fuel press reg - Tein lowering springs r33 gtst - GK Tech hubcentric spacers, 2x sets - GK Tech subframe bush kit - plus more, check my other for sales threads...dekuji