Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Like with anything, you get what you pay for.

In saying that the general price of these has definately dropped down and they are slowly becoming more affordable.

I think a large reason for this is the huge amount of flock of absolute beat up buckets of crap that come in and get complied from Japan and are palmed off here for 38 - 42k and as a result devaluing the general market.

Your best bet is to be patient and wait for bargains and trust me they do come up as there are alot of sellers atm in desperate situations.

i was looking for about a year and a half.....really wanted one. But in being patient i got myself a really nice stock standard one in a great condition from a guy who just loves them aswel. He had 2 of them and wants a 35 GTR. i knew when i spoke to him about it that he knows the car and loves them as much as i do. which i think is important. once i went for the test drive i was hooked. I'm very happy with it. engine wise it runs very well. body wise its very good. a few scratches on the boot and thats about it. So it pays to be patient.

post-97589-0-20633100-1351385167_thumb.jpg

post-97589-0-30385000-1351385171_thumb.jpg

post-97589-0-43763200-1351385175_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 3 years later...

Just read through this thread and it's interesting to note the increase in price on R34 GTR's at the moment. Looking at carsales they all range between 60k-80k generally. The cleaner, lower KM's are pushing 70k-80k.

But what they are advertised for, and what they sell for are two different stories.

  • Like 1
firstly people asking top dollar for nur specs dont seem to be getting anything near what they are asking and therefore the same car is sitting for sale month by month. They are not old classic cars, and will not hold their value what so ever.

Had a chuckle at this comment from a while ago.

  • Like 4

Like with anything, you get what you pay for.

In saying that the general price of these has definately dropped down and they are slowly becoming more affordable.

I think a large reason for this is the huge amount of flock of absolute beat up buckets of crap that come in and get complied from Japan and are palmed off here for 38 - 42k and as a result devaluing the general market.

Your best bet is to be patient and wait for bargains and trust me they do come up as there are alot of sellers atm in desperate situations.

* All Imports - gone

* Master Cars - gone

* Xtreme Motorsport - gone

* M & R - gone

* Nagoya - gone

* Dream Cars - gone

* Sports AutoGroup - name change again

* Ginza - going

* Edward Lees - going

...and this is just in Sydney.

Worst examples are thus, being weeded out.

Best examples are in very short supply, because simply, not that many BNR34s were made (due to Nissan's financial problems at the time and R&D in high performance cars in Japan had stalled)!

So what can we glean from this?

  • Like 2

Very happy that I picked mine up when I did. I can't see the price dropping anytime soon. Once America get their hands on them they are going to increase even more.

If you check out the auctions in Japan most of the vehicle going for sale are grade R's. Very hard to find ones which are grade 4 or above.

  • Like 1

Prices in NZ for a good clean example

R34GTR $50K

R33 GTR $35k

R32GTR $25k

Price doesn't seem to vary much between highly modified and near stock.

But there are lots of exceptions - someone is listing an an R34 in an allegedly rare colour (midnight purple) for $80k and people will list their highly specced pride and joy for huge dollars but I don't think they sell.:

  • 4 weeks later...

I've been monitoring the price like a dog for 3yrs nonstop from what I've learnt now and 3yrs ago

R32 GT-R now + $5k local

Japan 300,000 Yen average extra due to american import 25 years coming into 2nd gear

R33 GT-R now +$7k local

R34 GT-R now +$15k local across the condition.

But on the auction dramatic reduction in GT-Rs for sale i use too login go window shopping and choose from about 100-250 skylines over a 3 month gap now i go i see up too 40 skyline n now i think only 3 r34 GT-R up for grabs.

Unfortunately when ill be ready to buy 3yrs from now i will have to have deep pockets for a nice r34 vspec 2 with nice extras

Bit more then £45k for a mines built 2.8ltr currently on offer [emoji26] [emoji27] :(

Edited by pol1on1
  • 2 weeks later...

Happy to see my predictions were correct ;)

Just seen on Iron Chef's FB page that a grade 4.5A M-Spec Nur just sold for 11 million yen at auction. Car had around 5,000km on the clock.

Crazy prices.

Start saving!

Just out of interest and to give you an idea if you are in the market for a R34 GTR Nur, whether it be a V-Spec II Nur or M-Spec Nur

Nur.jpg

This car would have been around $80K - $90K landed in AUS the most.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

A V-Spec II Nur was once purchased off Powerplay Imports Gladesville at the end of 2002 for $170,000.

The ups and downs of the market need to be treated with caution.

Does this make #9 Z-Tune cheap at $510,000?

Or is the #1 Z-Tune at $700,000+ too expensive?

Looking back to 6 months ago, that R34 GTR V-Spec N1 was a good buy.

A year ago, that R32 GTR V-Spec II N1 at $150,000 was ridiculously expensive. But now? The trend line I agree, is on heat.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
    • Dang, those BBS are so nice! 
×
×
  • Create New...