Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Funny my new gtr 33 just did 270rwkws with front drive shaft taken out. Fully stock with 3inches turbo bacm exhust. Not sure if the last version of gtr33 had some tricks into its sleeves.

Nah that's about right

I seen a r32 gtr with just catback dynoed at Unigroup back awhile ago made 250rwkw on rwd dyno std computer

And I was struggling to make 230rwkw on my sr20 cams turbo injector afm tune

6cylinders especially gtr make power very easy

Funny my new gtr 33 just did 270rwkws with front drive shaft taken out. Fully stock with 3inches turbo bacm exhust. Not sure if the last version of gtr33 had some tricks into its sleeves.

Sounds off, doubt its a stock ECU tbh. Seem more than a few of them struggle to hit 260 tuned on standard turbos.

12% I think is the agreed difference between awkw and rwkw for the GTRs.

270/1.12 = 241 awkw which sounds about right if it's missing the boost restrictor?

Most R33/4 owners wouldn't bother on a RWD dyno due to having to remove the front shaft. Whereas on the R32 its as simple as pulling a fuse, or flicking a switch if you've got it hooked up that way

Edited by Blackkers

But a highest reading out of a stock GTR on this dyno was 207rwkws on factory tune. My boost curve appears to be laggier also, but not as laggy as the N-1. Pretty much spot on with -9s. But every thing is stock. Its the only Navy Blue GTR Trent's ever seen either. I always gets stooged with cars that makes stupid power.

gtrfront500.jpg

This is power vs a normal GTR33 on stock ecu:

powervs.JPG

Boost vs Stock R33 GTR:

boostvsstd.JPG

And AFR

afr.JPG

Timing, ignition, fuel, AFR, Pretty much every thing is spot on. Std GTR 33 tuned with PFC was getting 245rwkws on 14psi. While this is fully standard with a cat back exhaust. It felt very different to drive compare to other GTR 33s I've looked recently, I was expecting around 180rwkws not 270rwkws.

So well this is my base line for this GTR.

+1 for the 'not actually stock turbos'

Given -7's and -9's and -5's look identical from the outside to stock turbos, I'm going to say they aren't

...they are also what Hypergear are up against in terms of 'bolt on 100% legal high flow-looking' turbo options, curious to see if Stao can get turbos to respond that well and make 375rwkw on E85 and look entirely standard which is what a -9 will do

Or more than 500+rwkw which is what gtx2863 fronts will do in standard housings :P

The previous owner is a farmer, he knew nothing about cars, it was sitting in his garage for a long time. He said he only driven it to his mechanic for a oil change every 4 month, and clocked 4000KMs for the past 5 years. He's wife made him to sale it.

I'm more interested in the Rb26dett power and response thread. I will be starting with a single setup once the manifold is ready. Too much hassle getting E85 when needed, This car will be running on P98 fuel.

Update compared to my previous result with the following changes:

1. Rebuilt actuator arm by Stao with more preload (around 3mm) - this is a Z shaped one as opposed to the original straight rod

2. Rebuilt & tucked in exhaust system:

  • JJR bellmouth - bottom half has been recut/customised to run as close to the floor as possible
  • Venom 5" cat - bought without flanges, which were welded on at the exhaust shop for best alignment
  • HKS Super Drager cat back (R33 coupe model) - mid muffler replaced and moved further back for better clearance, most of the piping redone in 3"...

3. Retune at Chasers

Result: 275rwkw @ ~20psi, BP 98 Octane (red line)

Without airbox lid, snorkel and filter: 285rwkw (top blue line)

It also has better response than before so the actuator and exhaust mods have helped.

The intake is restricting it a bit and I reckon that the Trust turnflow might be at its limits, too.

14988174665_c40106fbf1_z.jpg

Thanks heaps Stao and others for your help on this!!

Great drifting :thumbsup:

Result sent in, This is our ATR45 turbo on an Ford XR6 BA. Final result of 400rwkws on P98 fuel internally gated bolton at 19psi of boost.

atr45ford400rwkw.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...