Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Brae Auto Fabs, Cost $1100. It is custom made to suit this turbocharger, and fitted every thing perfectly. You can find more details about this manifold in page 513.

  • Like 1

Stao can you tell me abit more about the new single you are testing? Since the N1 GTRs already has pretty decent turbos from factory, What are the advantages compare to the factory twins? Cheers

Well, I would like to reach optimum performance levels based on a particular type of engine that I'm working on. The goal of this project would be trying to maintain the factory N1's response while making alot more power. I have spent few more hours today making an custom spring holder for my external gate that packed 4 springs, the lathe have made this job so much easier :P :

eg1.jpg

eg2.jpg

eg4.jpg

Its now hitting boost cut without BC, which is either 17psi or 30psi depending on what Trent set it on :turned: .

I have also made some little changes on the turbine housing and made it run on oil cooled Ceramic balls. Drive ability wise, this is probably the best single any one's ever made for a GTR in its HP range. I rate it better then the stock twins.

Little footage of CBB turbocharger shutting down:

  • Like 1

the 76mm turbine, is that the one you where using in 21U hi flows or something ?, not op6/.82 hi flow?

did you fit that to my ss3 thing you did for me?

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

The internally gated ATRSS2 (0.82a/r hotside) we ordered arrived late last week, is a nice looking unit and Stao supplied a few bits to make installation a bit easier. Busy times at the moment so it now looks like we're not likely to have it running until roughly mid November, but I will update with results. I'm quite looking forward to seeing how it performs :)

  • Like 2

the 76mm turbine, is that the one you where using in 21U hi flows or something ?, not op6/.82 hi flow?

did you fit that to my ss3 thing you did for me?

cheers

darren

Yes the prototype is running the Steam peddle turbine, same as yours. :D

The Rb26dett engine has a long rev range so the turbocharger must be able to flow that extra bit of air. Evaluating using 60mm turbine, I've notice a huge surge of torque once the external gate opens, this is usually an indication of undersized exhaust end . The turbocharger will not last if left to be, and the engine will not be able to take much timing up top.

The steam peddle turbine worked nicely in mid top end, but I felt a short period of flat spot down low. With VNT nozzle ring and CBB cartridge in place, that flat spot is gone. The car comes on positive boost with a lite touch of throttle,and its pretty much driven on boost all times. I'm very positive with the up coming dyno test.

  • Like 2

this may have been covered already.

is there an option for a bolt on internal gate td06sl20.5g?

I love the progressivness of it on my 1j

so would like one on the rb25. but without the cost of another 1400 buck exhaust manifold....as much as I would like too..

TD06L2 range doesn't work very well internally gated on Rb25det. Std high flow performed better. SS2 is a better one that is engineered to perform internally gated on Rb25det.

I'm looking onto different turbo options for my rb20,

I would like to get 230-240rwkw and wondered if you are able to have a t3 8cm rear housing onto one of your td05 18.5's

or would and rb20 or 25 hiflow be better suited?

On pump fuel with reasonable response on an rb20

also do your turbochargers response change much between an rb20 and sr20?

If I remember correctly Stao already stated that a RB20 have the same boost threshold than a non VCT SR20.

ATR43 SS1 result @18psi :

rb20det225rwkw.jpgThe result is available in this exact same topic, you just need to go to page 1 and search in the summary, or search on Stao website, or search on the RB20 dyno thread. Plenty of information everywhere. :)

What do you call reasonable response ?

For some full boost @5000 rpm is fine, others begin complaining when they have to wait for 2000rpm for the torque to come.

Thanks for answering that romain, I have read the rb20 dyno thread. Also ive followed the this hypergear thread for a few years.

At the moment my 32 has only boltons and stock turbo at 1bar and the amount of useable torque this has makes it a very brisk car, but out on the open road 80-100km plus it feels (relatively) slow.

I really want more up top without losing too much down low

The ATR43SS-1, and 1.5 are great turbos for the Rb20det, as it is actually running a T3x turbine housing that has been modified from a T2x. That we can run them with our 55mm turbine wheel using either a 68mm billet compressor or a 71mm cast compressor. We usually see 20psi around 4200RPM that makes any where from 220~250rwkws. If better response is preferred we can also build it in 2860-5 specifications that would be making 20psi around 3900RPM that makes around the 210rwkws mark.

To high flow factory RB20det turbocharger, for best response it will has to be a G1 profile. and that will be making 20psi around 4000RPM with around the 200~230rwkws mark depending on how much boost is pumped.

You can compare response using the reference from our SR20det evaluation based on the runs that has VCT turned off. Alternatively, if comparing to a RB25det result, the difference in response is about 1000RPM.

Some updates. This is the twin turbocharged LS1 VK from Chequrered Tuning that I've recently built the turbochargers for:

carfront.jpg

enginebay.jpg

turboleft.jpg

Final result of 523rwkws @ 3.8psi. Wondering whats 400rwkws by 4000RPM like? :D

power.jpg

boost.jpg

Its heading for WTAC comming. will upload videos once available.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • haha this shit box doesn't drink coolant, for now       Let me guess, they make heaps of power, use the car for straight line driving and don't care about noise
    • They’re so great that I know of someone pulling one out to go back to a sequential 
    • Hello everyone. I've recently started the research into R34 GTR front bits and running into eye watering prices. On the plus site it looks like some places make 'replacement' fender liners for these cars. At eye-watering-but-less than stock prices. I also noticed there's plenty of diffuser options available too. What I would like to know is if my following assumptions are correct. 1) The OEM guard liners are actually only 'half' the liner. They go together with the OEM brake vents which are a separate item which looks to be quite a large 'panel' that is part of the liner. The GTR bumper has bolt holes along the front. I assume the ones in the vent correspond to the ones the OEM liner does not have (circled?)   2) The V-Spec front diffuser supplants the brake ducts in the above item. I am assuming these still work with the guard liners as there's no alternate part that I'm aware of. I don't see how they go together, so I'm making the assumption that they have to, somehow. I know the center splash guard is different on the V-Spec (and is the price of the damn diffuser alone). How does the liner interact with this? 3) There's alternate front diffusers that do away with it all. Annoyingly, a lot of the clones and CF different ones... have no brake ducts on them. I like the idea of them though. My brakes get hot on the track. These alternate diffusers are a lot cheaper than plastic splash guards. I'm assuming you don't have to/aren't supposed to remove guard liners to run a diffuser. I suspect that quite a few people actually do not run the guard liner because with a front undertray you're getting a lot of 'splash' guarding anyway, and most people remove liners given they're probably running a pretty aggressive setup with a diffuser at the front. It would also be nice to know if anyone has ever run the 'reproduction' guard liners and know whether the fitment is OEM quality or "OEM Quality". Example: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/356254671561 https://carbonetics.net/products/nissan-skyline-r34-gtr-plastic-front-wheel-arch-set Is this knowledge still around?
    • Really, effort is pretty low. You hand fistfuls of cash over to someone else and pick it up when done...   And at least this shitbox isn't drinking coolant right?  
    • And most chargers that most DIY people own would put bugger all power back into the battery between cylinders. I've always done it with jumper packs/second battery connected. And that's on any car.   Because race car, and wanting the lightness.  At least in an R33, putting a bigger battery in can at least help shift the weight balance backwards  
×
×
  • Create New...