Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here is what happened. A mate of a customer shown interest of buying the test car, welling to pay my asking price but requested for a compression test at a known workshop that few of my customers went and have sent me a number of jobs in the past. (Not chequrered tuning or any one from the SE).

The car was perfect, drove in to the work shop. They did a comp test, all came up to 170 psi. After the plugs were put in, crank and straight way there was a knocking sound in the engine. The mechanic "one of my customer" also found a missing coil pack bolt that I know it was not missing from start. I'm 90% sure some that was dropped into a spark plug hole, but the shop owner tries to convince me its a knocking sound from end bearings. LoL. With oil pressure gauge alive and sender gage disengaged, it obviously makes no sense. I'm f*ken pissed off at this point but did not wish to turn at all those familiar faces. So that was the end of it.

I'm leaning towards of doing some work on Rb20dets. After all that's the only engine that I've missed out and the project will be very challenging.

.

Here is what happened. A mate of a customer shown interest of buying the test car, welling to pay my asking price but requested for a compression test at a known workshop that few of my customers went and have sent me a number of jobs in the past. (Not chequrered tuning or any one from the SE).

The car was perfect, drove in to the work shop. They did a comp test, all came up to 170 psi. After the plugs were put in, crank and straight way there was a knocking sound in the engine. The mechanic "one of my customer" also found a missing coil pack bolt that I know it was not missing from start. I'm 90% sure some that was dropped into a spark plug hole, but the shop owner tries to convince me its a knocking sound from end bearings. LoL. With oil pressure gauge alive and sender gage disengaged, it obviously makes no sense. I'm f*ken pissed off at this point but did not wish to turn at all those familiar faces. So that was the end of it.

I'm leaning towards of doing some work on Rb20dets. After all that's the only engine that I've missed out and the project will be very challenging.

.

90% of people drop rb20's in the bin. So I wouldn't bother.

What I'm interested in is RB25Neo, not DET the NA ones.

Higher compression, better response, on E85 with mild boost.

Mention is to Trent, see what he says ?

couldn't you just put a bore scope in the cylinders and see the marks it would have made as well as throw the compression tester back on there and show that its no longer the 170 across the cylinders to prove they f**ked it and 'you broke it you bought it'.

?

also why didn't you do the compression test yourself in your shop?

The buyer only trust that particular workshop, no one expected this issue. The car drove perfectly to the point when it was powered up again after the comp test.

The comp tester shown very little change after, its a metal "bashing around" sound from the upper half of engine. Work shop had a broken scope that can't be used. Owner offered $3.5G to rebuild that engine, to me the rest of the car's too rough to have that sort of money spent on. Buyer how ever was happy to take the way it is with $4G discount, his offer was accepted, and I'm over with it.

I'll be looking at few more skylines this week, and hopefully be back on projects shortly.

I guess the point of bring that up is my RB25det NEO did not broke because it had excess boost at it. The failure was totally none performance related. They are excellent engines.

Don't bother with rb20s.

If you're going to draw a line under RB25 turbos, which probably isn't the worst idea, I'd concentrate on XR6 turbs or perhaps something for our retarded VG cousins.... sorry Fairlady and M35 owners.....even the designation VG sounds a little retarded....

Stao, how many rb20 hiflows and atr43ss1.5 do sell a year? I bought one of your hiflow second hand and it is a bit laggy, but if you go ahead and develop something really fast spooling for an rb20 I would be interested.

Don't bother with rb20s.

If you're going to draw a line under RB25 turbos, which probably isn't the worst idea, I'd concentrate on XR6 turbs or perhaps something for our retarded VG cousins.... sorry Fairlady and M35 owners.....even the designation VG sounds a little retarded....

That or a direct fit rb26 solution. The only options people have are -9,-7 and -5 reallly.

-9 resonse with -7 power would kill the market with direct fit.

  • Like 1

Wow thats totally bs stao.. i belive youv been in the business long enough to know what your talking about.. but there are plenty of people out there that arent as genuine unfortunately. On a side note im with most of the gang here i wouldnt bother with the rb20.. maybe rb30 turbos? Or some more rb26 bolt ons.. either way im happy

Name and shame that workshop. What a dog move.

yeahhh nah for the sake of the forum that can't be done. legal bills etc etc

anyway I vote twin-cam RB30's next! (please, i'm building one)

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...