Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The NZCAS worked nicely. Stock had fair bit of fluctuation up top.  

Lexxi32: This version is one size up. The 537rwkws version on the GTT.  I think its using about 30kws driving the front diff, it would be sitting around 450rwkws ish on 28psi. 

  • Like 1

Got my car tuned at the end of last year, I'm not sure if it's a good or bad result for so little boost.

Stock Rb25det w/ Z32 nistune, Hypergear Atr45sat, 1000cc injectors, blitz return-flow intercooler, splitfire coils, 255 Walbro pump directly wired, xforce 3" dump pipe & cat, apexi 3.5" exhaust, 3" metal intake to stock airbox.

Result was 230kw on 15psi dropping to 13psi.

20201026_095031.jpg.49fb4c69278637f4808bb7ca7fa9677e.jpg

Car was tuned with the 13psi wastegate spring.

Tuner couldn't figure the boost controller out proply and seemed hesitant to run the 18psi spring, he also reckons stock fuel lines are not really up to the task to run around 20psi.

And also noted the fuel pressure differential isolating, and suspected a fuel return issue from reg to tank, not sure if everyone gets this or I have an issue. 

20210225_125648.thumb.jpg.b3620cf354b4cdd97351b99fde7c0eb6.jpg

after x amount of time on the dyno I wasn't sticking around to play.

What do y'all think?

 

 

Edited by dyl33

Thats the usual amount of power seeing with supporting mods and boost given. Need a big FMIC, and possibly an exhaust cut out with a 20psi actuator to hold 20psi. and should see around 280rwkws mark. 

5 hours ago, dyl33 said:

Got my car tuned at the end of last year, I'm not sure if it's a good or bad result for so little boost.

Stock Rb25det w/ Z32 nistune, Hypergear Atr45sat, 1000cc injectors, blitz return-flow intercooler, splitfire coils, 255 Walbro pump directly wired, xforce 3" dump pipe & cat, apexi 3.5" exhaust, 3" metal intake to stock airbox.

Result was 230kw on 15psi dropping to 13psi.

20201026_095031.jpg.49fb4c69278637f4808bb7ca7fa9677e.jpg

Car was tuned with the 13psi wastegate spring.

Tuner couldn't figure the boost controller out proply and seemed hesitant to run the 18psi spring, he also reckons stock fuel lines are not really up to the task to run around 20psi.

And also noted the fuel pressure differential isolating, and suspected a fuel return issue from reg to tank, not sure if everyone gets this or I have an issue. 

20210225_125648.thumb.jpg.b3620cf354b4cdd97351b99fde7c0eb6.jpg

after x amount of time on the dyno I wasn't sticking around to play.

What do y'all think?

 

 

What do the 2 fuel pressure lines represent? Is that a  before and after ?

1 hour ago, hypergear said:

Thats the usual amount of power seeing with supporting mods and boost given. Need a big FMIC, and possibly an exhaust cut out with a 20psi actuator to hold 20psi. and should see around 280rwkws mark. 

Thanks for the reply @hyper-gear yeah I know the intercooler isn't desirable, but ive seen a guy up my way make 280kw with an r34 hiflow turbo on 18psi with the same blitz return intercooler only differance was a link ecu. So I'm thinking maybe I should put the 18psi actuator on and try again.

I'd like to avoid cutting a hole for a proper intercooler at the moment just to avoid any unwanted attention from the police, but it might be on the cards in the future.

Have you had any issues with stock fuel lines not being up to the task of running 20psi? because you run a lot of boost in your cars? Do you have stock fuel lines?

 

1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

What do the 2 fuel pressure lines represent? Is that a  before and after ?

Im not to sure ben, I'm not that clued up on the ins and outs of fuel pressure and tuning.

He just said the fuel pressure differentials isolating and suspected a restriction between the reg and tank.

Was hoping it made some sense to you guys.

8 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

This won't make a difference in power.

Yeah it shouldn't, I reckon part of my result was due to him not being able to use the boost controller properly. 

Do you still run factory fuel lines in your car?

 

Seeing as nissansilvia is dead, thought I would ask here..

ATR28G2 or ATR28SS1.5 for a standard sr20? Has poncams, 740cc injectors, exhaust, intercooler, nistune etc, currently using a t28 at around 260hp. Looking for 300+hp, and as responsive as possible as its mostly a street car. Thanks!

5 hours ago, dyl33 said:

Do you still run factory fuel lines in your car?

 

Not anymore since installing a surge tank, but before running 1.7bar of boost, a single 450Lph Walbro, I was doing 372kW at the tread.

However in saying that, I did have fuel return issues. Even with the FPR fully wound out, I would still get 2 bar of fuel pressure. Back then I wasn't running a fuel pressure sensor so can't tell you if there were issues with fuel pulsation - which I suspect was probable due to weird lean spots in my fuel map.

Now I use both lines (OEM feed and return) as only a return and fuel is fed to the rail via a 8AN.

6 hours ago, sliderrr said:

Seeing as nissansilvia is dead, thought I would ask here..

ATR28G2 or ATR28SS1.5 for a standard sr20? Has poncams, 740cc injectors, exhaust, intercooler, nistune etc, currently using a t28 at around 260hp. Looking for 300+hp, and as responsive as possible as its mostly a street car. Thanks!

ATR28G2 with a BB upgrade in T2 .64 internally gated would be something nice to make up to 350rwhp with excellent response. 

On 22/02/2021 at 5:27 PM, hypergear said:

Thanks for the tip. Yes I though it might be the case, so I've added a cut out on the front pipe. Highly recommended for power hunting. 

spacer.png

spacer.png

 

What’s the theory behind this? Why not put a real exhaust on it that isn’t restrictive/Japanese junk and not the noise?

There is no reason why a 3.5-4 inch exhaust can be reasonably quiet provided that you get quality mufflers!

Complexity for no reason apart from not sorting the setup out properly from the beginning!

This shouldn’t be “the thing to do”!

why create noise and unnecessary attention to already “on the radar car’s”? SHUT THEM UP!

 

  • Like 3

I agree with the Pig. Build it the right size with quality muffs and there shouldn't be an issue. 

Something the pig didn't point out is the mess this shit leaves under your car. These things are starting to become quite valuable too so having it caked with exhaust soot and oily shit makes it a nightmare anytime you wanna work underneath the thing too.

This kinda thing devalues your car and is what draws the police's attention to our cars with this kinda rubbish and unnecessary noise. 

Testing the cut out the GTT made 17kws on 421rwkws with no other mods.  I've had cars with 3.5 and 4 inches exhaust, its a struggle for room under the car fitting the right mufflers. The cut out doesn't open till 20psi, Car now is stockish quite on cruise and doesn't restrict performance.    

  • 4 weeks later...

Some more time in prototyping, using the same set of housings but different wheel profile, I've managed to gain 250RPM RPM of better response while no lose in power, it is a pretty good out come consider no wheel size changes. I'll make custom housings next and see if that could improve response further. 

right1.jpg

enginebay.jpg

Red is Current ATR45SS-1 and Blue is prototype.

power.jpg

 

boost.jpg

 

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...

Further development on the T4 printed turbo on Rb26. This prototype made a pretty big differences, peek 377awkws while making 20psi by 3500RPM and 220rwkws @ 4000RPM. Will doing few more things and hopefully seeing 420awkws+ without loosing response. 

carondyno2.jpg

 

power.jpg

boost.jpg

 

  • Like 4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...