Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Did you happen to weigh the rear cradles? With the alloy hubs is the GTR rear end any lighter? Alsowhat Ti exhaust have you scored Marlin? My twin mufflerTi Trust exhuast is the street one which i am told is more expensive then the single muffler race exhausts...i am waiting for some dyno time to see if it makes the power i am after

Nothing new mate, mine is a stainless one from Just Jap. Outstanding value, including dump pipe (which just needed a small tidy up internally) and X-Force cat was around 650 bucks!

GTS-t's a budget racers bra! The cat alone retails around 300!

I couldn't be happier with it, great finish, and is holding up without issue :P

Edited by Marlin

looking good battered sav.

I like the ABS new mounting. it'll be interesting to see what the pedal's like without the booster but with the new pedal ratio. it's certainly nice to get some space back in the engine bay and save a bit of weight too. :P very good idea.

Baron, I did it to mine and the feel is chalk and cheese (read: FAR better!). I'm constantly trying to convince Berry to change his because as it is now I think it's terrible. Impossible to modulate worth a damn.

JJ often list stuff on ebay under an alternate marketing name, and just so happens I was the only bidder :)

Also, all Targa folks get a great discount there regardless, talk to Darron if you need anything as Steve is rarely avaialble :P

you get a deal? listed as $899 on just jap + postage

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=273&page=2

That's not the one I have mate. Mine is the ovoid style dump (I prefer anyway) and doesn't have a resinator (bonus to me ::P. It may have been a runout special?

you get a deal? listed as $899 on just jap + postage

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=273&page=2

That's not the one I have mate. Mine is the ovoid style dump (I prefer anyway) and doesn't have a resinator (bonus to me ::P. It may have been a runout special?

Just found the email and I paid the freight as I'm on a good rate with TNT;

JDM Performance Turbo Back Exhaust System- R32 GTST 1 AU $699.00

Nothing new mate, mine is a stainless one from Just Jap. Outstanding value, including dump pipe (which just needed a small tidy up internally) and X-Force cat was around 650 bucks!

GTS-t's a budget racers bra! The cat alone retails around 300!

I couldn't be happier with it, great finish, and is holding up without issue :P

so your saying your stainless system weighs around 7kg? because we weighed my 3" mild steel exhaust. dump pipe back with no mufflers and pretty much only one bend and it was 10Kg. the stainless one must be super thin walled. which is probably the case.

It weighed 11kg including front/dump pipe and cat convertor on my certified freight scales. Whatever it is made from, it's still going strong and it didn't scream "crap" when I received it or I simply wouldn't have installed it. :P

post-7861-1265596654_thumb.jpg

Edited by Marlin
looking good battered sav.

I like the ABS new mounting. it'll be interesting to see what the pedal's like without the booster but with the new pedal ratio. it's certainly nice to get some space back in the engine bay and save a bit of weight too. :P very good idea.

The removal of the booster was under Ben's advice, and it's just one less thing to go wrong. If a one way valvle fails, your assisted bedal can turn into a 16psi pedal stopper.

The ABS is a commo unit (Bosh), the R32 gtr abs is bad enough, i can't imagine what the gtst one is like. i've seen alot of people mount them on the passengers side, which i thought is pretty dumb, considering the piping hot exhaust runs right under it (which is where the lines would go with a nav in the car)

Edited by sav man

I haven't really detected any difference between the GTST and GTR stock ABS. neither are super fast but thankfully they are quite lazy (ie quite a high threshold) so on the circuit you will almost never have it cut in at all. on uneven or broken surfaces though (which I'm sure you get plenty of in tarmac rally) they are shithouse. can't cope well at all with low grip tarmac and then you find the sampling rate/pulse speed etc become a problem. for tarmac rally I can see for sure a better unit is a good idea. I'm not sure how much is in the valve body or how much is in the programming and processor power of the ECU. I suspect most of the gain comes in smarter/faster ECUs.

master cylinder is 1/2 mounted, just need to drill and tap the holes for the studs. Some new brake lines run

gallery_5985_3354_446323.jpg

gallery_5985_3354_49238.jpg

Some lines to the abs unit, need to tidy them up before they are flared.

gallery_5985_3354_194791.jpg

I have wasted the last two weekends being dicked around by the std Nissan brake lines...have to ge the car farking towed in the morning because of them :) So looking forward to farking them off again and having fresh lines with banjos and not those shitty, alloy swaged fittings :(

Got my abs hubs back from getting the bearings replaced. old ones needed a 60t press to get them out (after they were tried in a 12t, then a 30t)

Roy: i was given the advice to put anti seize on all the brake fittings, from the local hydrolic place, as it stops you rounding them. I rounded the rear fitting in my gtr, and dremmeled it down to a 9mm head

I never had much luck doing the double flares myself ben, how did u go with them? I ended up just taking them down to tas brakes to get done.

Its coming along well though, looking forward to seeing it on the road!

What are the advantages of getting rid of the booster? Wouldnt it require more pedal effort without one?

It does require more effort, but you quickly get used to it. Done properly, it feels much lighter pressure than if you simply experiment and disconnect your booster.

You need to alter the pedal ratio from approx 4:1 to 6:1 by moving the master cyliner up approx 27mm, and re-drilling the top of the brake pedal inside the same amount. That gives you more leverage, and ends up about 6:1.

The benefit is much better brake feel. I found after putting Brembos on mine that I couldn't modulate the pedal as well as I needed, so having non assisted brakes was a massive improvement.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...