Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 6/3/2021 at 6:34 AM, reaper said:

It wasn't about gains for me just the added strength. We didn't push it any harder however with double the deck thickness its worth doing.

Downside is the extra weight and it takes a bunch more machining.

Mine isn't sleeved, isn't needed. Just vanilla nitto 3.2 stroker in it.

Do they actually sleeve rd's

I thought once they do they it affects head clamping again? 

1 hour ago, Piggaz said:

At what point do you just bite the bullet and go billet? Round and round you go.

at $23k for a block, crank, rods and pistons i dont know why you would go cast anymore. Sure you need to warm them up but its a no brainer if you ask me

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, ido09s said:

at $23k for a block, crank, rods and pistons i dont know why you would go cast anymore. Sure you need to warm them up but its a no brainer if you ask me

Also don't forget The external oil pump kit you need (wet or dry is up to you)

6 hours ago, r32-25t said:

Was talking to Herman at gtr fest and any block that has been sleeved he automatically condemns it 

Is that because of the deck lifting issues or is there another reason?

2 hours ago, Piggaz said:

Is that because of the deck lifting issues or is there another reason?

Because you make the bore behind the sleeve thinner, the cast bore ends up cracking which give no support behind the sleeve and then it ends up cracking 

or if you go for the big sleeves with the flange on top you take the complete bore out and a lot of the deck which then take all of the integrity out of the deck and the deck cracks 

  • Like 1
18 hours ago, r32-25t said:

Also don't forget The external oil pump kit you need (wet or dry is up to you)

Anthony at Dahtone has one  running a Tomei pump that to now hasn't had any issues and its making over 1000hp though hasn't been pushed just yet ;)

2 hours ago, ido09s said:

Anthony at Dahtone has one  running a Tomei pump that to now hasn't had any issues and its making over 1000hp though hasn't been pushed just yet ;)

I’m going off what both pmc engines and bullet themselves say 

1 minute ago, r32-25t said:

I’m going off what both pmc engines and bullet themselves say 

I don't believe too many know Anthony has done it yet but he has and its all going well so far. Time will tell though if it stays together or not. Be good if it does

I have seen photos of the engine you’re talking about, but if the guy who builds more of them then anyone else and the manufacturer of the part says not to use it, that a good enough reason for me not to use it. 

  • Like 1
On 05/06/2021 at 9:21 PM, ido09s said:

at $23k for a block, crank, rods and pistons i dont know why you would go cast anymore. Sure you need to warm them up but its a no brainer if you ask me

If we are talking a track only car sure but for the street I still have my doubts considering how much they grow and shrink.

The weight saving is great but it's honestly never crossed my mind to go billet

6 hours ago, reaper said:

If we are talking a track only car sure but for the street I still have my doubts considering how much they grow and shrink.

The weight saving is great but it's honestly never crossed my mind to go billet

I was talking to the owner of the r32 gtr with the plates “billet” he has a 2.8 in a billet block making 1150hp at the wheels and regularly drives it on the street and has done 40 plus passes (best being a 9.0 at 160+mph) and he says it’s never been an issue and he drives it in stop/start traffic and the lot.
 

What he did say is he changes his oil pretty regularly and makes sure the oil is up to 80° before he drives it and apart from that it’s no different to having a cast block 

11 hours ago, reaper said:

If we are talking a track only car sure but for the street I still have my doubts considering how much they grow and shrink.

The weight saving is great but it's honestly never crossed my mind to go billet

Peter at PMC has built quite a few billet engines that are in street cars and he reckons they are fine. 

2 hours ago, Piggaz said:

How often is “pretty regularly” with oil changes?

He said 300-500kms now that could be over kill but honestly that’s probably about 6 months worth of kms for me which is how often I change it in the gtr anyway 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...