Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was trying very hard to keep my stuff-up a secret,,,like very in house,,, but seems thats dreaming.

Basically I stuffed up,,,went in to quickly and she woudn't turn, i was trying to catch a v6 supercharged commodore in my class and f**ked up.

Yes I have pics and vids,,,just no time for that malarcky,,, i have spend the last 2 weeks stripping her and putting her back together,,,12.30 nights every night, I'm rooted to say the least.

Cheryl Lives on,,,thanks to all the help from the following great people,,,in no particular order,,,i love you all

Pete and Jenna,,,thanks for all the parts,,,what would I have ever done without your help guys. THANK YOU

Duncan and Matty for all the helping put her back together,,,thanks both of you for all your time and effort,,,very much appreciated.

Mathew at Race Brakes Sydney for helping me out with new Discs and Pads,,thanks as always mate,.

So tomorrow a wheel alignment and get the front bar painted and she's good to go.

Cheers

Neil.

Seems some one was videoing Cheryl as well. At least she sounds great.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m77HeRx7_t4

If the wheel alignment comes back bad and I can't take her to the SAU nats,,,I have a backup plan. I've been offered a drive of a very modified clubman.

Cheers

Neil.

I've been into (or up actually) that bank as well mate. Probably 10 yrs or more ago.

Mt Cotton is a difficult place to come to and try to go real hard first time you've ever been there. It caught out alot of very experienced hillclimbers that weekend, so you're in good company.

Good to hear it's pretty much ready to go again :)

Yep on the money there Harry,,very technical track to get used to,,,I'm usually pretty good at working out where I can go quicker and I had lots of help from an old mate from up there. Seems I picked the wrong spot to go in deeper. Bit shocked at the carnage that happened,,,lots of open wheelers crashed which is very unusual.

Ben there were a number of times going down the 1st loop that I and many others had the old shvinkter tightening up.

Time to start packing for Adelaide,,,wheel alignment is great.

Heres my in car,,,everyone loves a stack.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCmfgWy5sQA&feature=youtu.be

Cheers

Neil.

  • 3 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

actually it drives beautifully and very predictably, and has done more motorsport in the last 3 years than any other SAU car I can think of. I'd have it in a second over most cars around the forums.

  • 1 month later...

Cheryl had a date with Yavus of Unigroup Engineering fame on Saturday and I believe she has fallen head over heals in love with him. After playing with her bits,,,I approved of cause and she now has 242kw's coming out of her rear end. I did ask if we could maybe lower her enthusiasm down a bit, but no was the answer.She does have a great rear end by the way.

That's using stock injectors,power fc, 040 pump, plasmaman inlet manifold,Z32 afm, FMIC and a Turbosmart boost controller.

We both left there very happy and I've entered her in next weekends VW Supersprint at Wakefield Park.

My only hope is I don't have to keep emptying her colostomy bag after every session.

Cheers

Neil

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...