Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The reason being I do not wana leave my car at any shop for more than a day ( I know it can be done in a day by a gun fabricator/mech/welder) and as you said above, the cost implications, but it shouldn't be expensive for some bits of welding and fiddling around... As for selling my jjr dump for $200, I bought it for $179 brand new lol......... And no defects mate, I'm not into screamers, plumb back's for me.

I meant to say its NOT going to cost a bucket load, wasn't concentrating.

You're going to find out the hard way that modifying your car is a process that takes time. You swap out injectors, afm, turbo and get it tuned; you're going to be without your car for more than a day. You can't do without your car then you can't modify it, you need to sort something out anway.

As for defects etc. an aftermarket internally gated turbo is just as illegal as an externally gated one. Just do it properly.

having a stupid looking car and driving it like a stupid then being stupid when you are confronted by popo will probably get you defected just for being stupid,

before an external gate will get you defected for having an external gate...

having a stupid looking car and driving it like a stupid then being stupid when you are confronted by popo will probably get you defected just for being stupid,

before an external gate will get you defected for having an external gate...

Lol at ARTZ, that little blue three wheeler on your avatar will surely get you defected mate. For 'driving an extraordinary and potentially dangerous car on public roads'..

Kando's turbos are great. My girlfriends sister has been running a td05-20g on her sr for a year with no dramas and cops a flogging more then often and my mate has had a kando td06 on his rb20 for nearly 6 months now pushing 27 psi on track days and smashes the fkuc out of it and no signs of smoke,shaft play or anything else yet,very happy with a 800$ delivered to door turbo.

Kando's turbos are great. My girlfriends sister has been running a td05-20g on her sr for a year with no dramas and cops a flogging more then often and my mate has had a kando td06 on his rb20 for nearly 6 months now pushing 27 psi on track days and smashes the fkuc out of it and no signs of smoke,shaft play or anything else yet,very happy with a 800$ delivered to door turbo.

awesome, can u tell me what rpm range the TD05 starts spooling on the SR. I just bought a TD05H 18G for $600 shipped. If u pay outside ebay he will knock about $100 off it.

Kando's turbos are great. My girlfriends sister has been running a td05-20g on her sr for a year with no dramas and cops a flogging more then often and my mate has had a kando td06 on his rb20 for nearly 6 months now pushing 27 psi on track days and smashes the fkuc out of it and no signs of smoke,shaft play or anything else yet,very happy with a 800$ delivered to door turbo.

What sort of power are they both making?

Kando's turbos are great. My girlfriends sister has been running a td05-20g on her sr for a year with no dramas and cops a flogging more then often and my mate has had a kando td06 on his rb20 for nearly 6 months now pushing 27 psi on track days and smashes the fkuc out of it and no signs of smoke,shaft play or anything else yet,very happy with a 800$ delivered to door turbo.

27 psi that's a bit drastic did you mean 17 psi? Mine didn't make any more power after 22 pound I'm fairly sure Roy found that to.

1.9ish bar of boost?

Pretty sure these (TD05,06, T67 and their like) wouldn't be able to flow more than 1.7bar (which is what trust quote for similar frame misti's, I would assume that the Kando are much the same). They seem to run out of their efficiency at around 1.5ish IIRC.

Edited by Wheezy

I just read through this whole thread, very interesting read and long lol.

has anybody actually had a td06sl2 20g(external gate) tuned running yet?

also I know a 8cm rear housing is a little small for a rb25 but has anybody out there tried one? Im considering it as I already have a trust td06 kit which needs a rebuild and its a 14cm rear lol, so I want to get a 10cm but Kando/kinugawa dosent have them in 3 bolt flanges. So am considering getting a TD06sl2 20g and running it with a 8cm untill I can find a 10cm turbine housing to swap onto it........ thoughts???? Note im also waiting on a reply to a email if they can get me a 10cm 3 bolt but its the second email and so far no luck

Unless somebody out there has a 10cm and wants a 8cm or a 14cm I could buy the same turbo and swap housings I guess

That won't fix my problem, I have a trust exhaust manifold so I need the mitsu housing ( same as Roy ) unless I change the flange on the manifold, which I don't want to do

Edited by JLTS13

That won't fix my problem, I have a trust exhaust manifold so I need the mitsu housing ( same as Roy ) unless I change the flange on the manifold, which I don't want to do

Sounds fine. You will be able to get a 12cm item which should work nice. A little laggier but hey... Cant have everything lol.

If search TD06 triangle housing, you will find the Kando listings for the item. Sometimes they have Kinugawa in the description also.

If you need help determining which housing to get its simple, measure the outer diameter of your turbine wheel. 61mm SL2, 65mm Standard TD06, 67mm TD06H.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...